Av8ferg

CO, that’s a fantastic idea. The pistons and rods are wrapped in cloth and individually bagged but I’m going to open them back up tomorrow and looks for the staining. The other idea I had was to put them in the direction that requires the least force to seat. That may the original orientation that goes in smoothest. I was hoping that the stamps of the bolt heads would be consistent but I don’t think that’s the case....rats. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

No I left that one in there. After the battle with the rear one I didn’t want to risk it. I’ll ask the shop if they can get it. I’ll remind them how close the bore is to that one. Everything is loaded up in the SUV to take to the shop tomorrow. Here’s the task list: 1. Hot Tank block 2. Inspect and clean head 3. Inspect crank and journals 4. Hone cylinders 5. Install new core plugs (like that ZH) 6. Will inquire about shaving head. Crankshaft journals looks beautiful to me, no signs of anything to be concerned with. Getting all this rust out of the cooling jackets and chambers will be nice and I’m sure it will help it run cooler. I need to start ordering rebuild parts. A question for the crowd. When I removed the pistons I had a couple rod bolts fall out on to the garage floor. Which means I lost the original orientation. They can only go in two ways. (180 deg out from each other) Each bolt has two markings on either side of the head a “12” one one side and “H” on the other. I have the correct bolt in the correct side of the rod but it may be spun 180 out. I’m assuming either way is fine but wanted to confirm. I’m only concerned because of this comment on the book. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I can see that happening without beers. I drilled a hole to put in a small bolt, screwed the self tapping bolt in with my drill and almost hit the bore. Whew....had to flash a light in there to verify I didn’t hit it. That plug is in there good. I need to have a professional remove it. I tore it up good trying. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Almost got all the freeze plugs out, except the front and back ones. They don’t want to move. There appears to be a bunch of rust in the engine behind all the plugs I pulled. Behind the coolant drain plug is was packed full of debris. This block needs a nice hot tank to clean all this up. Probably need the shop to remove front and rear drain plugs. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Okay, pulling crank now. I decided to label with a paint pen after wiping the areas with denatured alcohol. My kids have a habit on moving crap in my garage. They’d be sure to mix them up while I’m on a work trip. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Found this in my Nissan L Series Engine Rebuild book. Might be what happened to you. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Maybe it was a manufactured defect and finally failed. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I think his post and my question were posted at almost the same time. The only thing I can think of is the chain caught the edge of the guide somehow. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’d go with the Japanese one. What happened to the bolts from the tensioner? Did you find them? How about the timing chain cover, any damage or witness mark on it? It’s amazing the motor ran almost flawlessly after that, what a testament to the durability of these engines. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

In that case it’s a no brainer. I’m looking forward to a picture of what you find behind the timing chain cover and the fact that this failure occurred early in the trip . Honestly, I was impressed you drove the car from Orlando to Colorado. Did you get a lot of people inquiring about the car on your journey. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Dave, I had replaced my Water Pump last year when I was bringing my car to life. I would take the pump out before pulling the cover. Not that you have to but you’ll be able to get all the coolant that sits in that small chamber out. And it will free up space for the rest of the work. Also, if you discover any issues with your pump it might be easier to get it off with the cover on vs sitting on a bench. I’m a fan of the methodology of inspecting and replacing things when a convenient time permits. How old is the pump? For $41 it might be time to replace it anyway. Pull the pull the pump, inspect it and put a fresh gasket with a little RTV and put anti seize on the bolts. Now you know it’s fresh and the cost is almost nothing. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

They wanted $25 for the bottle so I left it. If you want in let me know and I’ll grab it next time. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Might be both. They seat blocks the screw driver and the seat won’t move. The heads were rusty and rounded out. Tried to cut the off with snips and risked damaging them so stopped, I need a hack saw blade next time to cut behind the hooks off safely Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Meant to say the screws were stripped and wouldn’t come out on j hooks. I’ll get pics next time. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Zella, got a center map light and one dimmer knob. They other one was cracked Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I got your coat hangers, the J hooks screws were stripped and would come out. The finisher I left because it has a small hole. If you still want it I grab it next time. See pics Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’m back to the yard...do all requests remain of effect? All I ask is you cover the cost they charge me shipping to you. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I guess it all depends on what we’re doing. I’ll be there but it’s not until the afternoons. I don’t have a lot of Gucci tools at my house like you guys and I really don’t have any experience in this region. So the more help the better. I’d be the guy that messes the crank keyhole like on the other post. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks, if I end up driving up there for work next month I’m going to bring the head a block. But it only gives us 2.5 days and I will be flying from 8am to 6pm. So it might be tough unless your will do do it while I’m working? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

CO, great thread but 1/2 off it is going straight over my head. I’ll need some babysitting on the whole drilling of the cam sprocket that I failed to understand. I was going to pull my oil galleys and tap and put in brass hex nuts back in. Seems fairly straight forward and the NPT Hex Plugs are on Zcardepot. Why are you not considering it? I guess I see it as an opportunity to make sure it’s all the funk will get cleaned out when it goes to the hot tank. https://zcardepot.com/products/pipe-plug-npt-1-4-3-8-oil-passage Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks ZH. I have the book and will do some of those things but not go crazy. These engines run pretty darn good stock. So far the engine is in good shape, probably would have gone a many more miles than I’d ever drive it. All the carbon will be nice to clean up as I’m told they can become relative hot spots and start degrading performance. I plan to send the block, crank and head next week. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks for the tips. Pistons are coming out nicely after cleaning the cylinders ridges with brake cleaner. Got my Machine Shop quotes today. $50 Hot Tank and inspection $65 Re-honing $65 clean and inspect the head. 7 day turnaround Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Captain, cant believe you were able to see those numbers on the piston head. I cleaned up a piston and now its clear. So, I’m sill not sure if this engine has been rebuilt. Can’t find compelling evidence except that the head gasket doesn't have Nissan written anywhere on it. The only other evidence I might have found is the cam sprocket. My 77 engine with the N47 head has a different looking sprocket. It has 3 holes vs the one on the 82 P79 engine which has 8 holes. Now, when I look for replacement timing chain kits online they all seem to have 8 hole sprockets. So the question is, is this an aftermarket sprocket and does the stock Nissan sprocket have three holes. See below pics. Chain kits see to run from $97 to $150. Is there any specific brand I’m looking for? I also need to find a replacement harmonic balance and oil pan. I could probably salvage mine but this is not how I roll. I like to do it right the fist time and don’t want to put beat up parts on a rebuilt engine. Replacements aren't cheap. $190 for and oil pan and >$200 for a harmonic balancer. If anyone has some good ones sitting in their garage or barn they want to sell let me know, Tomorrow, I’m pulling the pistons and crank out....probably not required I know but down the rabbit hole I go and I hope you can help me when I try to climb back out, A note: my goal is to keep this build around $1000. This includes the engine cost so I have $600 more to go before I need to make compromises. Anyway see my pics below.

Okay, made some progress this AM. Had to invest in a 1/2 impact wrench to get the crank bolt off. Worked like a charm. Head is off, no broken bolts. Lots of carbon build up but seems reasonable for 164k miles. Oil pan is a disaster, dents everywhere and there was this extra metal strip on one end between bolts and pan . Looks like someone added it but maybe this is stock. See pics below I took. See anything that concerns anyone?? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Cliff, you lost me on that post, are you drinking? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk