Av8ferg

ZH, I get your point. I’m not trying to avoid work but actually wanted a project. I don’t want throw money down the drain for no reason but putting a new chain and guide isn’t a big deal. I thought that the EFI could handle a higher CR, if not that’s true then it’s a major consideration. I want a a reliable, smooth and string engine that will be installed in a restored car. BTW here’s the order form from the yard. It has some info but this is all I know about the engine. Actually has the VIN of the car the engine came from. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Okay, Cliff the timing looks spot on but the chain on the drivers side has a slight more that a width of a link of slack. See comparisons. ZH, I don’t disagree with the way of thinking. I’m thinking of at minimum pull the head and clean the engine and repaint the block. Maximum is to shave the head and port it. When I flip the engine over and pull the pan I can look it over in there too. At least change the gasket, knock out the big dent in the bottom the yard gave the pan and paint it. I’ll see how it goes but to me this chain is for sure too loose. What say you on the chain stretch? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So, the yard said the car it came from had 164k miles on it. Didn’t have any other info other than the engine was good. I saw that placard in the head and didn’t know what it meant or who put it there. ZedHead...what is my goal? Two fold, I wanted a replacement engine that had a little extra performance but keep it mostly stock. Sure, maybe I could do the compression test, leak down etc but I wanted to maybe add some performance. Port the head a little, possible shave it like the Captain is doing. At a minimum, I want to pull the head, look over the valves and pistons, see if there is any corrosion or other areas of concern. The engine is sitting in my garage and can’t go in the car for about 6 months (being store in a barn 2 hrs away) while my new house with a massive garage is under construction. I want to know what I have, make some possible performance enhancements and clean and paint the engine. Once It goes in the car I don’t want to them discover issues a few thousand mile later. Don’t it once right and never do it again. Time is something I have a little of right now and it’s either do this or waste time doing something else. The chain looks pretty new to me, but the slack seems a bit excessive, what do you guys think? A few video links here. Here is also a pic of the plugs that came out. Got some gunk on them. Am I making a mistake pulling this head off. I’ll be waiting for some consensus. My new 3/8 impact wrench waiting! [/url] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Copy all. I have 1/4 impact driver but that’s probably not going to cut it. This timing chain looks new to me but what do I know. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Okay, got the manifolds all off without breaking a bolt. Whew!! I let the bolts soak overnight in a penetrating oil and they came off in a breeze. Here are the first looks at the head and and cam. Looks dirty but I don’t see anything the looks like a problem. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Cliff, Thanks, all great advice. I need to be disciplined because otherwise I’ll have a mess trying to put all the little things back on. Great advice. Tomorrow I’m going to try and pull the Intake an exhaust manifolds . Charging the go-pro so I can record watch it later Iliad I need to. Already broke my first bolt on the heat shielding between the manifolds. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Well this is settled then! Take a seat in the back row and let professor Obvious move on to the next lesson. Where are we on the shaved head solution now that this is behind us. How are we going to remove the extra slack? Nice job CO. I was the kid that needed to put my hand on the hot stove. Thanks! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Finally got my F54/P79 engine in my garage. I’m going to start tearing it down for a complete rebuild to install in my 77z. Has 164k miles on it and is a guaranteed engine. Was a deal $408 out the door, no core. I might need some help as this happens so wanted to start a new thread for anyone wanting to guide me along. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So Grannyknot I should put “60% of the time I’m right every time”. Kind of like the cologne Sex Panther. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So back to my experience moving the the cam sprocket. I remember when my buddy and I did this we had to release the chain from the sprocket because otherwise we couldn’t get the sprocket back on. CO back to your sprocket drawing (impressive BTW). You’ve labeled the teeth as 1-3. The angular distance from the center of the sprocket in 1 vs 3 to the center of the crankshaft (lower gear that sits over the crank) would be different...no? 1 is farther away than three. This results in more tension on the right of the chain as you move it. The chain tensioner can only take up slack on the left side. So when the chain stretches over time, the engine timing slowly retards. When you move the sprocket to the next position you transfer that slack to the side that has the ability to take up that slack (left side)...The tensioner can only do so much which is why shaving the head exceeds the capability of the sprocket position and tensioner to account for. This is why I think my engine has chain slap. When I moved the sprocket this problem started. My chain is obviously overstretched. Let me end this with the disclaimer....I’m no engine expert and borderline dangerous with my knowledge. I’m looking at this purely on observation. I’m not offended if you tell me I’m totally wrong and to sit back down and listen to the professor. I’m learning! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Interesting. When I moved my sprocket from 3 back to 1 is when I noticed I could hear chain slap on the cover as the motor decelerated from a rev up. I think moving the sprocket only tightens or loosens the right right (upward side when running) of the chain and pushes the slack to the tensioner side where it is supposed to taken up by the tensioner. The tensioner can only take up so much. This is my guess. Someone feel free to shoot my theory down, I’m still on my first cup of coffee this AM [emoji477]️ Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Jeez...probably cost as much as a real Lambo to do all that work. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks, I think this type they slips in the hinge. I just want to make sure I can find the small hardware parts and don’t end stuck with Louvers I can’t use. Here’s what the key looks like. I also found this install instructions. If anyone has some hardware for these laying around please let me know. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

What unethical is to deceive a potential buyer. It doesn’t matter what you do as long as you’re honest. Otherwise you are lying and that the unethical part . Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hey, I found a set of louvers for my 1977 280z. I haven’t paid for them yet but they don’t come with the hardware. They are original Interpart Louvers. He’s asking $100. They look to be in good shape. Probably need to be repainted. The question is about the hardware. The key and mounting components are missing. Am I going to have a hard time finding this stuff? Does anyone have any or know where to get them? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Well, I’ll add my 2cents since I recently went down this road. It’s hard to believe the original resin portion of the wheels was that light. I stripped mine all the way down until the natural color of the resin was consistent. It looks almost like straw when sanded down. I put polyurethane on after and it did picked up the Cherry color with just that. Do not attempt to stain as you’ll likely get a very dark steering wheel. In the pic here, I had completed the spokes refurbish and only sanded (lots of sanding BTW) the resin. You can see it’s pretty light. Again this is before the poly went on. I put 5 coats of poly on after and the color stayed fairly consistent between coats. I wet sanded between coat to make sure it was smooth as glass. Polyethylene is very thin and can easily get uneven due to orientation of the wheel during the application. I tried spray and brush poly and the brush technique is way more consistent and less difficult to make right. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

CO, I didn’t know you can covert the bins on a 77. And put doors there. I’d like to do this mod. I have the slopped rear deck which I don’t really like. I’d prefer the flat rear deck. I have a spare that is inflatable. Bought parts from a guy that had leftover from his 78 rebuild and he threw in that spare. Not sure if it’s compatible with mine. Is there a thread on this conversion? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It had all of those items. But I’m no longer near that yard. It might be 4-6 weeks before I return. I’ll look next time. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So, next time I’m out there I’ll take a look for you. I have one extra 280z steering wheel and three 240z steering wheels. I grabbed the 240z wheels to use on my car and was going to restore the extras (got three because they looked rough and wasn’t sure how a restoration would come out,needed backups), plan is sell the others at some point. The extra 280z wheel came with my car when I bought it from the PO. It needs a wrap to cover the rubber which looks pretty sun beaten. Here’s the before and after of my 240z steering wheel restoration. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So, who am I sending this gas cap to? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I removed the plastic finisher and left in in the trunk and it has the access panels on the ends installed. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Well, I could have gotten the coat hangers, belt hooks and mirror but didn’t get this message in time. Next time I’m going I’ll let you know. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

If you want the gas cap PM me and shoot me your address Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

All 280s were 75 and 76 it appeared. I have the same sloped rear area on my 77. I narrowly escaped heat exhaustion and a snake bite. Did get from the 2 40z a horn button, gas cap, rear tail light valances and license plate light. I couldn’t take the heat anymore and didn’t have water like an idiot. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sorry, tried to grab a few of your items. Opened the hood and about 3 seconds later a large snake crawled out from under the car. Scared the crap out of me. I abandoned that car for the day. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk