Av8ferg

I don't think anyone buys a classic Z for the safety. I agree with ZH, they might protect your car from granny in the parking lot from smashing up your rear apron but if you get hit with any real force those bumpers won’t do a darn thing to protect you, Captain Obvious is probably designing a 10 mph bumper that sticks out 24 inches for his restomod. Sorry CO....its 3am, I'm working and between flights...couldn’t help myself ?

Yes, lines are the same. Tail lights and front turn signals are different. Badging is slightly different too. I’m doing the same. I’m going with 240 bumpers and front turn signals with a front xenon air dam. Custom interior inspired by the 240 diamond vinyl pattern. The average person can’t really tell the difference between a 240. and 280z. Bumpers are the big indicator. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Just catching up on this thread. I’ll give you my advice having been searching for S30s for about 2 years all over the country and educating myself in the process. Before we talk about the cars we need to talk about the “end state”. What do you want. Weekend driver, long term resto project for a show car, daily driver or something to tinker with. Reading through this sounds like you want a pseudo daily driver. After we establish that the we look at what finances we can commit to this. You said 10k. That’s not a lot to get a nice, rust free, mechanically solid car that’s over 40 yrs old. While parts are available, some are getting expensive, especially in the 240 world. You want a car that has most of its parts. Clean shells are deceiving and can break the wallet buying all the little stuff. Second is rust. Dave WM has already emphasized this and he’s right. Rust will destroy your budget completely unless you know how to weld and fab metal. Finally, mechanical. You can take more risk here. Like already mentioned you can find L-series engines with trannys for $400-$1000 online all day. Another $1000 you can totally rebuild a stock motor. I’d avoid the 260s. It’s not that they’re bad cars, they are just less desired and less parts available. There is nothing special other that they were built for one year (1974). 240s have been a the most desirable S30s and have seen a spike in prices in the past 5 or more years. They have the worst rust problems without question. The lightest chassis, arguably the cleanest lines (bumpers), least bells and whistles. 280s are the most mechanically refined S30. There are more available to buy, prices are still reasonable and there are more parts available. They’re about 500lbs heavier than a 240z. Bigger engine, stock 5 speed, better AC, smoother ride, EFI. Reading your posts, I think you should find a solid 280z. I’d look to spend 7-8k and keep 2k in reserve to make the car what your want and reliable. For 10k you can get a nice 280z if you are patient. Better to wait for the right car then get the car you kinda want today. I have a 280z but really wanted a 240z. If I stumbled on a great 240 deal, I’d buy it in a heartbeat but the good deals and barn finds where grandma doesn’t know whats she has are rare. The 240z is the classic car that everyone wants but you can get the same styling with some refinement in a 280 and save a bunch of money and have as must fun. Hope this helps your quest! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That sucks. Good thing it didn’t happen when you were driving. I guess I won’t get one of those. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I had a bad fuel pump when I bought my car. Sat foe 18 yrs. I pulled it out and after tapping on it with 12V power applied it all of a sudden began to run. Never had a problem again with it . I also cleaned the screen in it. I agree with getting an OEM pump. They’re actually extremely durable and I heard the aftermarket ones are hit or miss. You need to confirm your are getting 36 PSI to the injectors if it’s still running bad. Most guys buy a $20 inline pressure gauge and install it in the line exiting the fuel filter. It’s a good diagnostic tool also for future issues. Good luck. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Which header is that? MSA? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Cliff, I would have bought your car in a heartbeat. Looked solid. I’m curious to see what you think of this 240z. Part of me wants it to be a bad one so I don’t have to buy it. Getting it home could be a pain in the arse, and my life is pretty busy right now. But when the right car pops up, I’m going to grab it. I’d likely have to sell my 280z because my wife would kill me if I had another car. Looking forward to your findings. Rust is my biggest worry. I do t want a car that requires welding and extensive body work. Mechanical problems I can handle and have no issues there. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

No it has one tiny crack he says. Seller comment: “Complete dash out of a 240z. Comes with everything shown in pictures. One small crack and one small indention on the top. See pictures. “ Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

If you have a 240z and need a dash. This looks like a nice one. Located in VA, found on FB. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I was telling a guy the other day, I’d be happy to return to the days of no cell phones or internet. Life was better and we teated each other with more respect then. The internet has also become a place for cowards to troll around. It takes all my energy as a parent to keep my kids off these machines! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

What do you mean? I hate FB and only look at the classifieds because it’s a good places to find stuff locally, like CL. Otherwise it’s a mind-suck. The skinny jean millennials with safe spaces are asserting their position in the world. They love FB and anything social media, we can’t win. The cat is out of the bag. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Found this on Facebook. Another Series 1 near Austin, TX. Someone go grab it! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’d grab one from a salvage yard. I see them all the time when I find a Z. I’ll start grabbing them now that I know they’re so expensive. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Are the parts you want to clean up badly rusted? Have you considered using a rust converter vice the time consuming process of physically removing the rust? “The first ingredient in common rust converters is tannic acid which reacts with iron oxide (rust) and chemically converts it to iron tannate, a dark-colored stable material. ... The overall chemical reaction converts rust into a stable, black protective polymeric coating that serves as an excellent primer for both oil and epoxy based paints.” If the rust is mostly surface this is a good way to good. Deep or rust thats flaking needs to be removed before using a converter. I have used rust converters on one of my other cars with success. I’ve also used it on my steel garage door 3 years ago and the rust never came back. Just giving you options. There are lots of converter products on the market. My neighbor used POR-15 on the frame of his entire classic car. Came out awesome! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I did the same thing. Capped a PVC pipe and filled her up with thinner. Got the idea from someone on this forum. Worked well for me too. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

No title available for the car. NC makes it really really hard to title cars like this . You can’t even get it bonded unless it is road worthy and can pass a state inspection. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes. The hose on the damper side goes towards the engine. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I used the same thing a Cliff. Speaker wire and alligator clips when I was troubleshooting my fuel pump problems. It worked fine. When you said you put 12V on it but it wasn’t a full 12V that’s a bit ambiguous. Probably needs to be pretty close to 12V for it to work. If your pushing 10V it might be a problem. I agree with Zed Head on making sure it is properly grounded. When my fuel pump wasn’t working, I was able to narrow it down to the ignition switch. It worked fine when connected directly to 12V but would work when turning the key. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Gents, As we enjoy this Memorial Day weekend grilling burgers and sipping cold beverages with family in friends wherever you are I wanted to share the story of the sacrifice of one of my closest friends (we were friends for 18 years) who died on 14 Sep 2012 in Camp Bastion, Afghanistan. His name was LtCol Chris “Otis” Raible. He was the CO of a Marine Harrier squadron and died defending his Marines and aircraft from insurgents attacking on the fight line in Bastion. Many men and women have made similar sacrifices serving our country and without their willingness to lay down their lives for our Nation, our way of life would be far different that it is today. Take a moment, raise a glass for those sacrifices and enjoy this holiday. Here the story of the actions that happened that night in Afghanistan and a picture of my friend Otis! https://www.google.com/amp/s/www.gq.com/story/battle-of-bastion-taliban-afghanistan-air-base/amp

Dutchzcarguy, That’s some varsity work, way outside my novice ability. Pretty impressive! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Dave, I agree my 280z steering wheel looks like it was left on Venus for 3 yrs. The rubber looks like it was microwaved. Bumpers...I could live with the 75’ bumpers but in 77 they almost look like clown shoes. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks Gents. Cliff, the purest would stick his nose up when considering mashing together a 240 and 280. Both cars have their pluses and minuses. I like the 240z styling,(bumpers, turn markers, interior like the wood and the diamond vinyl etc..). The 280z is a more defined ride, kinks were sorted in the final production years of the 280. I can only have one Z, unlike you, so I need to make it the car the best of both. So my plan is to only change things that with minimal effort can be reversed. I’ll put a front air dam on with 240 marker lights and 240z bumpers. I’m going to do a custom interior vinyl like “Home Built by Jeff” did. While the car will be custom it won’t be over the top. Only the enthusiast and Z lover will know the changes. Average car guy won’t have a clue.

Still needs one more coat of poly and a wet sand but here’s the before and after pics. I’m pretty happy with the outcome. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Okay, first coat of Poly on and I’m glad I didn’t stain it. The poly brought out the natural color nicely. I’ll let it dry a couple days, wet sand it smooth and put another coat of poly on. So my advice so far for people looking at this thread in the future. Don’t stain it! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Good point JFA. Change of plans. Going to just put to poly on and see what happens, I can always sand it off if it looks bad. She looks pretty good now with the wheel prepped. Check it out. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk