Av8ferg

Here’s a post on the topic from hybridz. https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/70335-n47-head-on-a-flat-top-l28/ Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Do you know the compression ratio you’re going to get with an N47 head and flattop pistons, I’m just not sure what it would be? Looks like right now with dished pistons you would be 8.29:1. I’m going to go with the P 79 head and flat top pistons. Your chamber will be 9cc smaller than with the P79 and flat tops and that head has 8.82:1 CR. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’m looking forward to this thread. I’m about to do a full L-28 engine rebuild (my first ), so I’m interested in the same considerations. I’ve done some preliminary research and have read the first book “How To Rebuild Your Datsun Nissan OHC Engine”. Just bought the other book, “How to Modify Your Nissan Datsun OHC Engine”. My thoughts here...BTW I’m no expert. Why waste time doing a leak down test before teardown. Compression test makes some sense but your be pulling the head anyway and you’ll find out quickly if you had a bad valve or leaking head gasket. Leak down would be if you hadn’t decided you were going to or needed a rebuild. Sounds like your moving forward regardless. So my thoughts what’s the best bang for the buck after deciding what is the “End State”. You said a good street driver. With that in mind why would your replace the pistons to forged? That’s not going to make a performance difference unless you plan on boosting or really trying to make the engine high performance. Cams while able to increase power, reduce daily drivability and will require a change to the EFI to compensate. From what I’ve read on the interweb here are some good options. 1. increase displacement. If you’re set on getting new pistons then bore out the cylinders. I’ve decided not to go this route. A good honing is my plan. 2. Porting the intake and head to smooth out airflow. 3. Header and exhaust. (You’ve done that) 4. Upgraded ignition. Basics should do: -rings, bearings, valves, all seals and gaskets, timing chain kit, new hardware. (Head bolts etc..). -Good idea with turbo oil pump Shaving the head to increase compression is good option but like any mod like that needs to be done with care. If you overdo the CR upwards to 10:1 your begin to experience possible pre-ignition which will not be healthy for your engine. Unless you live near an airport and want to use 100LL aviation gas. Be prepared to pay ~$8 a gallon. For a basic rebuild, I priced all the parts and it was around $730. This included all the items I put above in “basics should do” to include new freeze plugs, complete new engine hardware, and water pump. I look forward to people who have more expertise to chime in and you’re in luck because this is where the L28 experts live. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Can I get a copy CO? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So this was a great thread. Not only did it get the questions about your car addressed but it served the entire Z community. BZ (Bravo Zulu - mil jargon for nice work) to all who have been working this issue and collaborated to set the mystery straight! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’ve been looking for that battery fuse link. They’ve move it from Latest and Greatest to the Wiring section. https://www.zzxdatsun.com/catWiring.php Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Do we know or can we determine the serial numbers of the last 260 and first 280? Is there a data base out there? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sounds like you got a good one. Nice pic. Congratulations Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You got to let us know your plan now. I want to get a bag of popcorn and hear about the outcome. Recap what I’ve read and agree with: 1. Fire Extinguisher 2. Jumper cables 3. Water bottles 4. Tool bag 5. AAA card (got a laugh out of this one) I’ll add 6. Oil and break fluid 7. Make sure you have jack and spare tire 8. A fully charged cell phone Good luck! These cars have a reputation for reliability but 40 yrs of owner abuse is where they unknowns come into play. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

She gained 40 Lbs in one month. Thank you clown bumpers. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Your car looks great. I live in NC too. On the coast in Emerald Isle. I’m in Raleigh all the time (in-laws) live there. I just bought a used 280zx engine and thinking of rebuilding myself to replace the stock and tired engine in my 77 280z. I’d consider sending it to rebuild but what the satisfaction of learning and doing it myself. Hopefully, I don’t regret it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Loaded question. Tells us more? How much has this car driven recently? Is it a reliable driver or been sitting and just runs. You could end up on the side of the road overheated and be in a pickle. Personally, I’d probably rent a unhaul trailer and find a truck or suv with a towing package. I’m at a pint in my life that I don’t take risks like be stranded on the road. If the car has been a reliable daily driver you’ll probable be okay. Check all the fluids before you pull away, put fresh gas in and have a mental backup plan. If you need to be at work the next morning maybe give yourself some extra time. A Uhaul might cost $75. You surely know someone with a truck in Sacramento. Putting a car that’s not been a daily driving on a 6 hour journey might be a bad idea. So tell us something that instills confidence. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I would say yours is NOT a rat rod by any means. He’s a good metric...can the car be returned to original with minor ease? Keep all your old parts and make the car what you want but reconsider any mod that can’t be reversed. I removed my 77 bumpers because I think they’re ugly and not how the Japanese envisioned the car. Still I’ve kept those old heavy bumpers, wrapped up in plastic and hidden away. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hadn’t thought of where the line is. I see a lot of Zs that are beat up and heavily modified. Fuel cells, V8s. Cars they were built to race or with cheap bandaid repairs by people that can’t afford to restore a car properly. Crazy fiberglass and bondo bodies. This car would qualify. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Well, I wasn’t 100% sure either but the front of the car made me think it had to be. I really believe in the coming years these cars will become highly collectible. Why? He’s my rational. 1. They’re beautiful by almost any standard. 2. They’ve become difficult to find and when they were cheap to obtain and modify 15-20 yrs ago many were ratted out, leaving the well sort of dry 3. They’re unique and were quality built cars from the get go. Unlike a Fiat or MG etc. The Z’s were well made cars that started a revolution in the industry. Recap...Beautiful, Unique, Reliable, Affordable, Nostalgic. What other cars fit those adjectives like a Z? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Just saw a commercial while sitting in my hotel. Has a 280z on an add as a guys dream car for $39,995. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I got a Japanese friend that lives in Hiroshima. I’ll see if he can translate for ya! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’d do a continuity check with a multi-meter on the wire bundle. If you have one wire that has compromised the insulation there is a good chance you have others that you can’t see. It’s a PITA sometimes to run wire problems because they could have an intermittent connection only manifesting during vibrations or upon heating up. So be patient, try and move the wire bundle while testing and test multiple times and see what you find. Wal280z has a wire diagram he made that’s awesome that your can download that will help you find the end points of each wire you’re chasing. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

CO, I’d be happy to share a batch with you if you can’t fill it up. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Captain Obvious can possible answer this best but my understanding is you should be good to go. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Forgot to add. I ordered all the parts to rebuild this engine. Total cost was $738. That’s For everything including all stainless bolt kit and new valves, timing chain kit seals, gaskets, oil pump, water pump, freeze plugs, rings (not pistons) , bearings, thermostat housing, PVC and a few other small items. Local machine shop doing the following: Block Hot Tank - $50 Head Clean and Inspect -$45 Hone Cylinders -$45 So it’s a $1,000 plus the engine cost $1,400 total. I’m expecting at least $300-400 in “oh by the way” issues. $1800 is what this endeavor will cost me. I think that pretty good. Don’t think you can do it for much less. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I just bought a running 82 ZX engine to put in my car. ($400) I might put an N47 or N42 head on to boost the CR but not sure. I have the original engine but wanted to build the ZX motor while my car is in storage for the next 6 months. If your thinking RB...think $$. The engines alone run $2,500+. The engine mount mod brackets are $499 where I looked. Then there are many more things to make the engine a smooth install so unless you have 5k+ laying in a box asking to be spent then go with an L28 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I hesitate to use the word cheap maybe you’re looking for the word economical or best bang for your buck I don’t know. I did some research on this and other than L series engine it’s going to cost you a lot more money due to modifications required. My humble opinion a good L 28 would probably be great for that car

Mine has no scratches. I can take pics if you’re interested. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Here the door placard of the car the glass came out of. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk