Av8ferg

Gents, I’m considering getting a replacement engine for my 1977 280z. First the back story. The car has an engine that runs but has a myriad of issues that make it ripe for removal and likely rebuild and or replacement. Odometer currently reads 28k. It was locked up when I bought the car, and broke t free with som mystery oil. So I’m assuming it’s 128k. 1. Some of the freeze plugs are leaking due to rust from the inside. I’ve temp fixed those with JB weld. 2. I’m getting what I think it timing chain slap. I hear a what sounds like the chain is hitting the cover as the RPM retards from a rev. So I’m might have a tensioner problem. 3. I may have a head gasket leak because my exhaust seems to have an unusual amount of white smoke. 4. Cold compression check had 2 cylinders in the mid to high 140’s while the others were in the 160-170’s. Bottom line , I want a reliable motor that I can enjoy with peace of mind. So this is why I’m asking the question. I can’t bring my car to my house for a least 6 more months because I don’t have room for it, and currently building a new house with an 1,100sq ft garage. I do have room to rebuild an engine while I wait for the car to come home,, plus I need a project...I always need one. My thought is a good motor can be ready for install when the car gets here, I’ll keep the old motor as a backup or sell it. So a yard near me has three complete L28 engines available. All are sitting in cars. 1976 L28 with N42 head 1982 L28et with P90 head (turbo) 1982 L28 with P90 hean (non-turbo) He wants $400 for any of the engines with all the parts and pieces. If I want the turbo with the L28et he wants an extra $100. I’m considering going with the L28et. It might be nice to have the extra power if I’m spending the money to rebuild an engine anyway. My goal to to have a fun, reliable car that will mostly be a weekend driver. I’m not after a show car or track car. Finally, what do you think will be a cost estimate for an average rebuild if I do most of the work myself? So which engine? I want to grab one before they disappear. He said he sold his other L28et last month. Thanks.

When I got my car the engine hadn’t run in 18 yrs. It was locked up big time. I pulled the plugs and poured Marvel Mystery Oil in the spark plug holes and let it sit 24 hrs. Tried to hand crank it was only moving a small amount. I cycled the wrench on the cam bolt turning it both CW then CCW. It would move on a few inches. Poured more in and let it sit another 24hrs and the next day it hand cranked right over. I also put assembly lube on the cam lobes before cranking with starter. She runs fine now and compression is in the normal range. So don’t be rushed...take it slow and work it back and fourth over time or you risk damaging something in there like a piston ring. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Cool find. Your decision is completely dependent on what you want and what you have time, money and motivation you have for a project. Do you want it to be a daily driver, a weekend cruiser? Old cars take time and space so you need to see if it fits your lifestyle and family situation now. I had wanted a project for the past 20+ years but with family, career, finances it was just not possible. I had too many other competing priorities. I bought a 280z after I retired from 24 yrs in the military and was ready and had time to tackle it. I’ve had lots of cool cars in the past that I wish I kept but you CAN’T keep them all. I had a 75 MGB, a 93 RX-7 and 69 Pontiac Malibu. I liked all of them but let them go for other priorities like reliable cars for work and family. The only one I really wish I kept was the 93 RX-7. You can always find your dream car in the future, you might pay more but I’ve learned it’s cheaper to pay for a car already redone than doing it yourself. If you love this car and have time and desire, then keep it. If you just thinks it’s okay, they you might not have the enduring motivation to see if through it’s resurrection, and you be throwing money at something you don’t love. If you think something else is more your preference then sell it and use the money for your other ventures until the time is right and then get exactly what your want. It’s had to throw $$ and time at something your don’t really love. I bought a 280z over a 240z mostly because of it higher availability in the marketplace. Other smaller factors were: less rust issues, increased design refinement of S30 to include engine, differential, tranny, accessories and reliability etc. I still love the look of the 240 over the 280 but minus the bumpers and changes in lights and badging it’s almost unnoticeable to the untrained eye. I’m always on the look out for a 240z. I wanna be like cliff (Siteunseen) and have both. I’m in the process of building a 5 car garage to fit my toys. If you decide to sell it, there are folks on this forum including me that would be interested. If you keep it, then enjoy it and take the advice of the people on this forum, they’ll lead you in the right direction. Good luck with the Brewery...it’s something I have always thought would be cool to do. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Cliff, Let’s wait until I get a 240z and then we can work on running the prices up. I’m still looking [emoji6] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So this is called a jumped or floated title. Each state may deal with the problem differently but your best bet is to go to the DMV and tell them the situation. I learned this the hard way as I have a 280z with a jumped title too. I live in NC and it requires me to have the vehicle inspected by a law enforcement officer who verifies the VIN placard and title. Then I have to pay $150 to place an indemnity bond on the car. I get a temp title for 3 yrs until the bond expires and I get an official title. It’s a pain but should be doable but you must talk to a DMV rep first. Hope this helps Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Dennis, missed that. Good catch. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So I looked up vehicle survival/attrition rates and this is what I came up with. We will never know the exact number and can only speculate based on current statistics. So one study from the EPA stated that a car produced 31 years ago has .002 chance of still being on the road. 172,000 x .002 = 344. Another report was from registered 240Z’s stated that 234 240z’s were still registered in the US in 2013. With about 18 lost annually. See links below. With that said, I think sport cars have a lower attrition rate than a normal passenger car and I’d guess there is at least 1-2 cars unregistered 240z’s (being restored) for every one on the road. So with all that, I’d guess there are between 500-1,000 240z’s still around. What do your think? https://cta.ornl.gov/data/tedbfiles/Spreadsheets/Table3_12.xls https://classics.honestjohn.co.uk/how-many-survived/nissan/240z Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Crap, I was in Portland last week. Not sure if it was posted then. When I layover somewhere I also look on CL to see if there is anything nearby, I don’t recall seeing it. I did see that freshly painted air cleaner posted and almost jumped on it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

How many of you have damaged or peeling chrome off of plastic parts? A good example is the bezel around your tail lights, maybe some badging or interior parts. Well, I was looking the chrome trim on my door panels (I just purchased a set of used door cards) wondering if the chrome plated plastic strips could be repaired and when researching the interweb I stumbled on this product by a company name ALSA. The make brush-able and spray can chrome. I was very skeptical until looking at all the video of people using this product. Looks pretty amazing. When I looked into sending my tail light bezels to be re-chromed they wanted around $150 per light (yikes). Anyway has anyone ever tried this stuff? I might buy a little and test it out and then try on my door cards. https://alsacorp.com

Well Zella is pretty hot! Nice bumper conversion. What tire and wheel size did you go with? You won’t get much by the enthusiasts in this forum....they see everything. ? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You live in Alabama...you should enjoy them more. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

To clear up space I put a couple racks that hang from the ceiling. You can get them at Lowe’s. I put stuff that doesn’t need to used often up there. Floor space is premium and this helped. What about the concrete on the floor? I hear epoxy isn’t very resistant to fuel and oil. Anyone have any suggestions for a good mechanics floor? I need to do mine but haven’t decided what is the best product to use. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

If you had debris in your fuel system you may also have clogged your injectors. You can pull them and test them. Let me know if you want specifics on doing that. It requires building a small nozzle adapter and a battery. Also work for cleaning them out, which is what I did. I start by checking you getting fuel, and that its at the right pressure. ~36 psi. When was the last time your changed your fuel filter? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sounds like possible a fuel delivery issue. Buy a fuel pressure gauge and put it on the fuel line after the filter. Particulates in the fuel can settle when the car is off but then slowly reclog the system after a bit of time under pressure. You’ll be able to watch the pressure gauge and know what’s happening. My 2 cents Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’m not sure where he lives but happy too if it works out. Captain are we sure all 77 doors and cards are the same. I know there was some mid-year production changes to the car in 77, like the sloped vs flat rear decking. We know the doors changed in 77, I learned that the hard way when I harvested a 76 drivers window only to discover it didn’t fit my 77. If anyone need a drivers window that’s in nice condition let me know. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Okay, re-attack on the door cards discussion. So the ones you have for sale are for a 77/78 from what I read. I have a 77. Manufactured in 11/76. My door cards are in rough shape. If these fit my year what do you want for them? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I totally believe it, because you can no longer completely trust companies like JD Powers. YouTube allows people to find unbiased opinions. I’m sure many are biased but I think there are some legit independent reviewers available and there is a big market for that. I used it to by my last car. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Well, take your extra ECU and put it in a metal box (ammo can?) with metal tape to seal the gaps then when the EMP hits you’ll be cruising around the ville in your 280z when everyone else will be rolling in Adidas or bicycles. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Captain, once you’re on the smartphone crack pipe you’ll never come off. It’s a double-edge sword, I use my iPhone for everything and don’t think it would be easy to go back. It’s critical for my job so I’m stuck. These devices have damaged our society but older people (like us) had learned to communicate with people face to face because we grew up with out this capability, something young people these days struggle with. I wish as a society we could go back that won’t happen unless we get hit with with an EMP or CME. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I have several AFMs that I picked up over the past year to have backups. When I was investigating my idle problems I decided to try one of my backup AFMs on my car that successfully past the bench tests. What I discovered was the my 77 has a different mount bolt pattern than the 76 AFM I pulled out of a yard. Has anyone else seen this? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Here’s a good Z AFM video I watched some time ago that I found educational. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I asked for one of these from Santa and got socks and shirts instead...maybe next year. Hope you all had a great Christmas. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I regret not buying that windshield when we discussed it in that thread, I was more worried about getting the car started. I’ve seen several Zs in junk yards over the past 6 months with windshields but assume they are probably not in the best condition. Will be looking closer next time. BTW that 75 Z is was successfully crushed and now in Z Valhalla. I called the yard last month and its steel was sent to China to make coat hangers, Good luck on your quest. If I come across one that is good I’ll let you know, There is a yard about 90 miles from me that has 4 or 5 unpicked over 280Z’s. I plan of going back next month with a parts list of things I need.

I agree with ZHon this. The car will be worth more put back together, That’s a lot of work so it brings value to the car to a potential buyer. I think in pieces you’re really cutting into your value. I think as is 3k-4K is all you’re going to get and that’s if you find the right buyer. I’d buy a put together car over yours if I were looking, I quick scan online and you can get a feel for the market value. Here’s one I just pulled up. https://inlandempire.craigslist.org/cto/d/1978-datsun-280z-black-pearl/6766436998.html $5500 for a nice Black Pearl CA car. Why pay $7 for a car in pieces that needs several thousand just in paint.

I agree, 7k is too much for the car in pieces. I’m no expert but I have be closely watching the market for these cars for about 18 months. Too many unknowns for a buyer to shell out 7k. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk