Av8ferg

Okay, so first rule of troubleshooting is to target the obvious first. Well I failed to do this and would classify myself as an idiot on this one. So the blue wire had no power because the fuse was blown. I just dismissed this because I had cleaned the fuse box and replaced all the fuse about one month ago. I made the wrong assumption the fuses were good, but after a friend told me to check the fuse it was in fact burned out. Radio is working. Ran the constant 12v power source from the cigarette lighter.

Hazards fixed. I pulled all the connectors C8 and C7 and cleaned all the terminals with Deoxit D5, there was some green residue in some of those terminals. I put the harness back in and now the Hazards are working.

I know this thread is 2 years old but it the best one I could find to discuss the radio wiring . I need a little help to get my radio properly installed. So I’m trying to marry up the proper wires on the harness with my modern radio. I don’t want to snip the stock 6 pin connector. I’d like to use the other side of the connector which already had a bunch on loose wires. I’m just trying to figure out what the colors mean so I can properly tie them into the radio. I know not all are required. There are 6 wires on the radio connector . (This isn’t the connector that went directly into the radio). This is the next one down the line. It’s circled in red in the wiring diagram attached pic. I’ve tested the blue wire which Captain Obvious stated was power with the ignition switch in ACC. I’m getting no voltage on this wire with the ignition in ACC. I’ve confirmed the Green/White is the illumination wire. When I turn on the lights I got 12v here. This wire won’t be required on the new radio I’m guessing because backlighting is not used on modern radios but now part of main power supply. I’ve figures out what we’re the stock wires to the one speaker. What I have left is a black wire…..this logically should be a common ground right? So what is the Red/Blue wire? In the schematic it seems to go to other lighting items like the horn relay and low fuel light etc. My guess to connecting my radio are as follows: - Harness Black to Radio Black (COMMON GROUND) - Harness Blue to Radio Red (SWITCHED IGNITION POWER) The route a dedicated wire that puts the Radio Yellow to the fuse box. (POWER FOR CLOCK, RADIO MEMORY SETTINGS) Not sure why I’m not getting voltage on the blue wire with the key in ACC. I guess I could start the car and see if It has power then. Thank for the help.

Well, cleaned the other hazard switch I had and replaced the flasher and no change. Both switches and both flashers cause the exact same problem. Only the passenger side lights work. Highly Unlikely both switches have the same issue. Those turn lights on the driver’s work fine when I use the turn signals, so I know the circuit and bulbs are good. Haven’t got a chance to test the grounds on the bulbs in the tach.

Okay, good ideas here. I think you’re correct about be hazard switch contact issue. I will pull that apart and inspect it and clean the contacts with some Deoxit D5. I’ll also test the continuity with the switch selected before plugging it back into the dash harness. I don’t think I have the bulbs in the wrong position behind the tach. My tach illumination bulbs work fine. They’re LED and I see them turn on when I turn on the headlights. Sidebar, you have to swap two wires in the harness receptacle to get those LED bulbs to work in the tac. Found that out doing some research. BTW, I have standard bulbs in the turn signal receptacle. Here the link to getting LEDs to work as back lights. https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/129101-tachometer-illumination-issue-solved/ I think you are both right. It has to be a ground connection. I’ll check it out when I get home.

Thanks Steve, I’ll get in there and check on that common ground for these tach bulbs. I did try and put my multi-meter on the neg and pos sides of the bulb sockets and got nothing, I even tried put the neg lead on the chassis to get a solid ground. Did this with the flashers on. I got zero voltage. I’ll keep poking around. Hoping it’s a simple fix. That Amazon link you sent is for a three prong flasher, is that what you intended? Thanks again

I have a mixed bag of bulbs. Front turn signals are incandescent, backs are LED. The hazard flasher is OEM. Turn single was on zcardepot for $6.99. Bulbs in tach for turn signal lights are incandescent. Was considering buying an EF-32RL flasher for hazards and for turn signals. No sure is I need you can use the same one in both locations? BTW, here is a pic of the inside of my hazard switch that didn’t work a bit crusty.

Okay, I’ve been out of pocket for a few weeks. With a combination of work and getting COVID I’ve been MIA on the forum. Covid was a 10 day ordeal, had it last year as well. Was worse this time but was just a really bad cold. The worst part was my wife putting me in double quarantine in my own house. So, I’ve been working a bit on the Z but it’s been minimal. I had been working on a turn signal problem that I’ve mostly resolved. I had 3 problems I found when troubleshooting . 1. Corded contacts inside the combo switch. 2. Bad Flasher. 3. Two front turn bulbs that had burned out filament. So now the turn signals work normally but there are still some problems. One is I cannot hear an clicking when I select a turn in either direction and neither bulbs in the tach work. The bulbs are good, contacts are clean on the receptacles. I had been told that the hazard switch and it’s circuit effects the turn signals. So the Hazards didn’t work either. I discovered I had a bad switch and replaced it with another one I had in my parts bin. Now the Hazard lights only work on the passenger side of the car . I can also hear them clicking but the arrows in the tach gauge do not illuminate So I still don’t know what’ the problem could be. Bulbs are all replaced, including tach bulbs My next plan is to get a new hazard flasher and see if this helps. Does anyone have any idea how I should proceed? Thanks

There are many forces at play right now and more complicated that the average Joe really understands. 1. The Pandemic - this was the catalyst not the cause of shortages, shortages lead to supply/ demand going out of balance and thus higher prices ensued . Federal free money (Covid stimulus checks) while necessary to keep some people afloat they forced out of work through the demand curve way outside the normal. It also upset the labor market. Some people decided not to work even when they could. 2. The Federal Reserve printing money since QE1 (circa - Nov 2008) which accelerated through QE4 expanding the Fed balance sheet has created a glut of cash in the economy and very low interest rates, this further disrupts the supply/demand balance. Cheap money encourages poor spending decisions. When a 5 yr loan is 1% people borrow more money and buy more crap. 3. Energy costs have soared. It began well before Putin attacked Ukraine. A couple things happened here. One when the economy began to turn back on demand for fuel outpaced production. Oil and gas companies were caught in a bullwhip effect. In June of 2020 there was a glut of crude oil that left them scrambling to find space to store oversupply. Crude tumbled to $9.12 a barrel in April 21. When the world economy started to turn back on suppliers had basically turned off the spigot. 4. New leadership - our new President enacted policies that make it challenging to explore oil and drill for oil and gas. He stopped renewing off shore drilling leases and exploring or drilling on Federal lands. Billions invested by oil companies in pipelines were scrapped and sit partially complete or dormant meaning fuel has to be trucked and brought in on rail. He had publicly stated in his campaign he would End All Fossil Fuels. The oil companies have decided it’s too risky to invest in further production so they aren’t producing as much and in an unfriendly environment can take consumers to the cleaners with low supply. 5. Putin steps in and kicked over the apple cart. With sanctions on Russian, oil and gas supply’s are further inhibited. Russia is rich in natural resources, fertilizer, minerals, lumber, grain. Ukraine was also. Now we have soaring prices on things like Nickel, copper etc. 6. Labor shortages - Again the pandemic caused a major disruption in America’s labor force, some have referred it as the “Great Resignation” in 2021 47 million Americans quit their jobs. Labor is way more expensive now and this directly impacts a companies bottom line. When China stops the lock downs and comes back online, we are really going to see energy prices soar. Hold on for a wild ride. Cliff, great story about the landlord. This is how it’s supposed to work. You raise prices too much people go somewhere else. This is how the free market is supposed to work BUT in our modern complex society we have serious barriers to entry now. Oil companies or chip manufacturers don’t have to worry so much about competition driving prices down because you just can’t build a chip factory overnight or a oil mining company, These companies have the market by the balls now. This is not how the market is supposed to work. What’s supposed to happen is competition is supposed to drive prices down but that can’t happen now in many markets. Trying not to to be political just trying to lay it all out there, because there is a complete lack of understanding out there..

Spot on…I work for one of the worlds largest shipping companies. Individual customers get the worst rate while large supplies have negotiating power but right now it’s worse than I’ve ever seen. We continue to raise prices to meet labor costs (when Amazon went to $15/hr for a starting base line,unskilled worker) everyone had to compete to get or keep employees and those cost are passed on to you. We lost 100’s of people at one place when Amazon did this. Planes sat for hours because we were 600 people short at one location. Fuel cost are volatile. We spent around 9 billion in Jet Fuel a few years ago. God knows what we’ll spend this year. The company wants pilots to shutdown an engine as soon as we are safely able to on the ground. Every drop of gas that can be saved they try to save it. This is the new normal and can confidently say we aren’t going back. Buy it now !

Stumbled on this video of a restoration and sale of a 280z in the UK. Pretty cool episode. In this they have a new 280z fender badge made from scratch out of metal. Seems cost prohibitive, I’d like to know what one of those badges cost, now that the company has a die made.

Cool Pathfinder…..you NEVER see those anymore, I’ve spent a lot of time in junkyards there past few years and I haven’t seen one in there either. Nice little gem you have there.

Checked my timing today with a new timing light that shows RPM. 10 deg at 800 RPM, 35 deg at 2500 RPM. Seems like my mechanical and vacuum advance are working are designed.

In a previous post I mentioned I was concerned with low oil pressure. Even after buying a new sender it was still reading low. I took advice from a few of you and installed a gauge off the block to check my readings. First, the gauge and the adaptor recommended worked perfect. On start up the block gauge show 50 psi (cold engine, cold oil). At operating temp it was stable at 30 psi. Revving it goes up linearly with RPM. Saw as high at 65-70 psi. I’ve been working like a dog recently, operation baby formula has eating up plane cargo capacity so they’re not letting people drop trips. Once crisis after another. I haven’t been able to work on the car for a couple weeks now. Soon it’s going to hot and humid as hell out and without my AC up and running it’s going to make engine break in driving a little sweaty and not fun. Texas AC (windows down) doesn’t work enough and make the interior more prone to exhaust fumes too.. IMG_8909.MOV

I grew up up 20 miles south of SF in a city called Belmont. Went to HS in San Mateo. I was asking because I’m flying into Sacrament next week for work and if you were near there I could hand the part off to you.

I have one of these. My car was a CA car and when I did an engine rebuild I removed it. I never throw old parts away so I have one. I’m never moving back to CA. I never say never but this “never” I’m sure of. I can test with my vac pump. Where are you in CA?

I put my vintage dash in a few months ago. You can Leave the glove box alone until you get the dash out. Like stated above it’s not attached to anything but the dash frame. Once the dash is out it’s easier to put the box out from the back.

I had forgotten about him but you have successfully dusted off some old brain cells. Isuzu kind of fell of the US map. That had some semi-cool vehicles back in the day. They should have never called that small SUV an Amigo.

The way I understand this after rebuilding my distributor. You have 17 total degrees of mechanical advance with the 8.5 counter weights in the distributor (btw some have 9) The engine rotates 2x for one distributor rotation. This equals 8.5 x2 = 17 deg mechanical advance, and according to the FSM you should get full mechanical advance at 2500 engine rpm (1250 distributor rpm). Distributor vacuum advance should have about 10 deg of advance at 2500 engine rpm. So at 2500 rpm you should have a total of 37 degs of advance and you can check that with a timing light by setting 2500 rpm and you should see the light flashing at 37. If it’s way off of that at 2500 you could have issues in your distributor (breaker plate bearings missing or rusted) or a blown vacuum dash pot. BTW….I’m definitely not an expert.

He’s lying to you….he is an expert !

Here is what the FSM says.

Small bolts first. There is is a small pinch on either side of the bushing that fits perfectly between where the pieces of metal meet. As you tighten just make sure that pinch stays properly seated. I torqued the large bolls last

Dan, did you make sure the bushings were seated properly before tightening them down. I slowly tightened mine down to make sure it didn’t pull the control arm out of whack. It doesn’t take much to to that. I might loosen them back up and then get the wheel straight and then slowly retighten. Just a thought because unless the control arm is bent this has to be the only reason

Thanks guys. A friend says he might have a lower shroud for me. If that doesn’t work I might hit you up for one, Thank you!

Thanks gents. I went ahead and ordered that adaptor and and a Marshal 1.5” oil pressure gauge that I’ll mount down by the pressure sender. Sounds like it’s not a problem but it’s a easy pease of mind fix. As far as the temp being higher than normal. The car was idling for a good bit and revved up siting in my garage while setting the timing. I’m missing the lower half of my fan shroud also which could be a factor. When driving it seemed lower, I think I have a 190 F thermostat in there. I’ve been tossing the idea of putting electric fans on the radiator to increase airflow, but haven’t done my research.