Av8ferg

From my reading you should not get any noise with the upper bumper because you trim the bumper to just be shy of touching the actual differential. Not the case if you opt to you use their replacement mount and hang the differential from the top. You will get noise if you go that route. They state that in the product explanation. I’ll buy a stock lower mount. With the upper bumper impeding movement of the differential it should minimize the stress on the OEM mount and this give it a longer life . Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Dennis, I did message him, but he hasn’t responded. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So I ordered the TecnoVersions mount, Starting cleaning up my replacement 3.9:10 R200 differential (not Yarb’s R200 imposter diff 😂😂). I noticed TechnoVersions also has an option to mount diff from above and removing the stock mount,. I didn’t elect this option. Stock Nissan mounts are about $100. I’ll look at mine once I have my differential out, I guess I’ll check the half shaft joints once they’re out. Might replace them regardless so I don’t have to ever go back in there, I’ve got reading to do on getting this rear suspension apart and refreshed. I guess this is the time to do the new rear shocks and Ebauch lowering springsi have already purchased….ugh 🥴. I’ve read and been told I should put 240z rear strut insulators with these Ebauch springs to get the right ride height. The springs only lower the back about 1”. I have a maybe a 4” gap right now back there.

Here are the bolts you’ll need to remove. Just did this job. All are 10 mm except the steering column. -6 near windshield under finisher. A 1/4 socket wrench with short swivel extension worked best . - there is one bolt on each side near kick panels. One next to hood release, screw upwards towards roof. And same on the passenger side - 4 (2 per side) where the dash frame bolts to trans tunnel - Speedo cable (what Captain Obvious said) - 2 x 12mm bolts holding the steering column. They help lower the column so you can get the frame clear. - your probably hanging up right around the steering column. Where those two 12mm bolt screw into. It’s a flat plate that the dash frame has to be lifted over. The dash comes out easier if you rock the bottom upwards towards tje windshield and the up and out . Don’t forget the 3 wire harness connections that going in to a panel in the passenger side firewall. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks ZH, Glad to hear I wasn’t duped when I bought this for $250 a couple years ago. I’ve decided I’m going to pull the trigger and just get the rear end apart and move forward with this part of the restoration. Didn’t want to do it because I predict challenges like always and wanted to drive the car before it’s 98 deg out, since my AC still isn’t sorted out . I’m going to order everything I need before I remove a single bolt. Once I have all the parts I’ll start. I’ve watch videos of people burning out bushings etc…I’m hoping either mine are okay or I can find someone to do that for me locally. I have more research to do. I’ll admit I don’t know much about the rear end. So this clunking in the back apparently is very common, I’ve heard and read. Generally considered a bad design, from my reading. I know there are alternatives to the stock parts. I guess the upper strap can be replaced by a hard mount to limit the differential upward movement. TechnoVersions is mentioned in several threads on the forum. Then there is the R/T one I guess. The TechnoVersion seems affordable, simple and available . Is there any community consensus? https://www.technoversions.com/DiffMount.html Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

ZHome page shows that they didn’t make a 3.9 in the R180. So looking a pics online Ii found 3.9 R200’s that looks like mine and others that have the bolts around the where the hang shafts attach. So did they change the designs in the later years of the ZX?

I got a side bar question since the rear end clunking was happening. I have a extra differential that I bought a couple years ago to get the ZX gearing for the close ratio transmission. I decided to crack open this diff and look and make sure it’s the proper 3.9 ratio. He’s is a pic of that gear. Says 39:10 Here’s my question…how do I know this is an R200? It is possible this is a R180? I know those were in the automatic ZX’s. This supposedly came from manual. Other pics I’ve seen of R200 look different. I seems like some have 5 bolts near where the half shafts mount. Here are pics of mine and then a pic of Yarbs ZX R200. This nice clean diiff in the pics is the one Yarb sent me. Other pics are from mine. You’ll see his has five 10mm bolts around here half shaft connects. Mins has none.

Thanks Dan. I’ll check that out. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks for the help gents! I put a new brake switch in this AM. I made a video to explain the situation better. BLUF: they only work with headlights turned on now. Will note work otherwise, so I know the switch is good. See video link below, showing the specifics.

I’ll message him for you. Do you have an email address I can send him?

Well, I got the car out for it first real test drive. Yes, no brake lights but it was on back roads away from other cars. I wanted to run through the gears and test the brakes and suspension out. Went pretty well. 1. lights are a mess, I knew this already. 2. Two leaks. One from oil pump, one of the bolts it appears but not from the main seal where it connects to timing chain cover. I will tighten but don’t want to break that bolt and I put the stainless bolts in there and I know they’re not as strong. I might need check the toque setting on those. 3. Transmission is leaking. One bolt on the casing. I tightened that bolt a little and looks okay but won’t know until next drive. 4. I’m getting a “clunking” sound from the rear end some where. Most noticeable when going in reverse or when accelerating rapidly and then coming off the gas pedal quickly. Seems like some play somewhere back there. Not sure where to begin looking. I had debated leaving the rear end alone for this coming summer season but I may have to get in there sooner. (I have a replacement differential from a ZX. Goal is all the bugs worked out by end of June, and have it a daily driver by then. Cars starts perfectly, runs smooth, and idles nicely. I only took the engine to 4K rpm just because the engine is still in break in mode. There is no engine hesitation at all, clean smooth acceleration. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Steve, thank you, great response, I’ll get right to this. I’ve determined the brake switch is intermittent. Bought a pedal button at auto zone for a Honda unfortunately it was too small and falls out. Got one on order at zcardepot. I got plenty of other tasks to complete while I wait.. Will start working on the carpets now, doing custom cuts and then having a local rung store bind the ends. I’ll have good templates for anyone who needs them.

Thanks, just checked this switch and the button that is intended to depress the switch is missing. I then placed a flat bar in front of the hole and released the pedal and visually verified the switch is fully depressed. The brake lights remained on still! So I guess the next step is to buy a new brake switch. This is an odd design by Nissans. WHY…one reason you’d have this little button in the brake pedal? Why just have it closed up permanently? Here the real interesting part. Nissan keep this design in place until at least 2003. How do I know? I have a 2002 Xterra that I leave in Memphis as my airport car. It’s not in great shape but this car recently developed a problem where the brake lights would stay on all the time. The button is missing on that car too. Noticed it about a month ago. So right now I disconnect the battery when I leave that car. It’s rarely driven…300 miles a year since I don’t spend much time there any more. What a weird design. I wonder what the engineering thought is behind this. Where does one get that button? I need 2 Here’s a pic on the Z’s brake pedal. Clearly the button is missing.

Okay, new thread in my 1977 restoration, This journey began in Dec 2017 when I found this car for sale on EBay. Car was in Tupelo, MS but was sold at auction in Ca following a repossession. Car was in rough shape but the selling point was the lack of rust or body damage. Interior was a mess, no seats or carpets, engine was locked up and had a really nasty dash, I knew it was going to be a long haul but I really wanted a Z for a long time. I’d been actively looking for almost a year. That’s the background, I had a thread called “Bringing a 1977 280z Back to Life”. That thread, got my engine running and was very educational for me. I then bought a replacement L-28 (280zx) engine from a salvage yard. I started a new thread “Putting in a replacement L-28”. Got that motor rebuilt and installed. Lots of help on this forum made that happen. So now the car runs, I’ve done lots of restoration tasks but thought I start a new thread for all the challenges remaining. Here’s my latest issue. Brake lights…. the goal is to get the car registered and on the road by the end of April. Before I can do that I need to get my brake lights working. Right now when I insert a bulb in the brake light sockets both illuminate. They’re always on even with with the key removed from the car. So the line is always hot, I also have the “brake” dash light in the speedometer that turns on and stays on after starting the car, not sure if they’re related. The E brake doesn’t seem to matter up to down that dash light stays on. Of note the tail lights, headlights and turn signals do not work either but they used to before I really torn the car down last year. Marker lights work fine, interior and dash lights work fine too. I never really messed with any of the wiring other than the engine harness. Right now the hazard switch on the center console is still disconnected. Where do I begin?

So, I’m going to start a new thread. This one has met the intent of the name. New thread will be “77 280z restoration”. I’ll pick it up there with my latest challenges. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Seats complete. -had the lower section with springs powder coated. -painted the uppers myself -foam came from a member in the forum - covers are from MSA and are the vinyl version. - got advice and tricks and tips from S30driver (thanks Jim) Using zip ties around the hog rings is the way to do it, to tighten things up. I’m happy with the outcome. cut myself with the razor blade twice whic is so easy to do on a job like this.

I’d go with Yarbs advice. Just step your way through this. Could very well be a wiring issue Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Good plan, I predict prices are going to continue to rise on everything across the board. So if you know you’ll need something it’s best to buy now vs cry later.

I contacted him on Facebook Messenger. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I live in the south and 800 yards from the Atlantic Ocean. We are in the high 90’s for humidity in the summer. The salt spray doesn’t help either. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Also, I don’t disagree with you except on one point. I have a family and three kids who absolutely depend on me for everything. My job as a father and husband is to always be standing on the wall looking out for threats to their safety and security. In the almost 0% chance of a future dystopian world, if I’m alive I I will do what I can you minimize the impact to them.

I guess I had a typo. I meant Mylar. It is used to store everything from food to electronics. It has very strong EMF blocking performance. I have a bunch of these bags from my time in the military. They were used to store sensitive circuit boards etc I put the ECUs in there mainly to protect them from moisture and air. Mylar is durable so they don’t tear easy and great for long term storage.

I have a set of SUs I sent to a member (won’t say his name, don’t think he’s ready to advertise). He’s refreshing them for me. He’s been busy but someday I’ll see them. I have 4 ECUs vacuum packed in mar bags as well at a an backup distributor. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Of course he did. He’s not an idiot, he’s a calculated killer. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The secret motivation is to get the car running before the Russians deploy an EMP off the eastern seaboard. The Z might be the only car that drives in my garage. [emoji3166] If we’re gonna be in pre-Armageddon situation might as well look cool in the Z. [emoji1787] All joking aside what’s happening in Ukraine is absolutely horrid. I worked on a NATO staff in Naples, Italy. I was on the team that drafted the NATO maritime operational plan to counter the Russians in the Black Sea and Baltic Sea. War can get out of control very easily. It just takes one mistake and you cannot control every soldier on the battlefield. We need to all hope and pray for good leadership. If anyone has questions about no-fly zones…fire away. A Navy Officer (the guy fired as the Commander of the Theodore Roosevelt Aircraft Carrier during a covid outbreak on his ship 2 years ago) and I designed the no fly zone over Libya. To defend a No-Fly Zone over Ukraine could lead to full on war with NATO. These are dangerous times and we need clear heads making non-political decisions about how to handle this aggression. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk