Av8ferg

Thanks Cliff, I’m trying to keep my motivation up and making progress helps tremendously. Next stop on the Z train is seat restoration. I have new covers already and new foam is on its way. After that it will be carpets and getting the headlights and taillights working. My goal is to register the car in April and start taking it on small local trips to work out any bugs. I’m holding off on rear suspension for awhile as I don’t want to start another long job. I have most of the parts but they need to be sandblasted and powder coated and I just want to drive it a bit first. The company is very short pilots so for the time being I have a job. [emoji1787] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Got the Dash installed. It wasn’t as easy as some have mentioned. There are some tight spots and areas where you can get caught up. The key it to do it slowly and stop when you hit resistance. The drivers side was the hardest part. I actually think this might be a one and done but can’t say for sure yet. Everything seems to be working after a little glitch with the lights. The only light not working is the tach back light. The brake light is always on also, not sure it the switch is bad next to the E-Brake. Trying to move slowly and not crack any of the plastic parts that attach the dash.

Good eye Dr. Bruce….I guess someone has been in this HVAC before, shocker! She’s 45 years old ….if our cars could talk can you imagine the stories that they’d have. I’m tired of looking at all this mess. I think I’m ready. A buddy is going to give me a hand tomorrow morning . Who wants to bet this won’t be a one and done event. I’m betting for the standard 3 attempts before I get it right, no whammy’s please. I’ve double and triple checked everything. I let the car run for 15 mins, and then tested all the HVAC selections and everything worked, except the AC because the engine compartment components are still out. Heater workedgreat.

Okay this is for Captain Obvious….I don’t want him to have a restless night. 🤣 Followed the FSM diagram. Pretty straight forward. Time to test. 🤞

I think I got the vacuum line routing sorted out. I had to fun out and buy new lines. Didn’t want to risk putting in lines that were 45 years old back in the car especially since I have the dash out. Just completed the center console sound proofing. It’s a two layer system. A metal backed butyl layer 80 mls think followed by second foam layer.

I know the vac lines are next in my list. I need to go through the FMS and confirm routing. Not looking forward to it. Did the test run to check for leaks. Had a small one and just needed to tighten one hose clamp. All good now. Of note: the car was running rough when I started it and it was running rich, and a big smokey…messed with idle screw and checked plug connections…no dice. Then I noticed the temp sensor pig tail on the back of the head came off. Must have happened when I was attaching heater hoses back up. So it appears the ECU defaults to a rich condition when this sensor is disconnected. Now noted for the future. Reconnected and ran perfectly. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Found the clip and pressing forward. I need AC more than you and you need heat more than me 😁. Something tells me I’ll be pulling the dash after I get it installed. Just trying the stick with the status quo.

Thanks Bruce. You heater controls and box look very clean compared to mine. I now see where the cable goes , thanks for the pics. I just need to find the metal clips that hold the sheathing of the wire to the frame. There are 4 total in the system and I’ve misplaced 2. I guess that means it’s time to give the shop a full cleaning. I have lots of craps all over. I’m so close yet still far away. This whole HVAC…(heater core, valve rebuild) was an unexpected set back in this project but with a new dash it was better to find out now then after install. Before I install the dash I’m going to start the car and check for leaks just to make sure I don’t repeat another task.

Getting close to getting everything reattached so I can re-install the new dash. When putting the heat box back in I has to push the heater controller back and while doing that the cable the connects to the heater control valve pooped off the end on the control panel. Now if can’t figure out where it attaches. My assumption is it would connect tot the temp lever but I don’t see a connect point. See pic below. In the pic I’m holding the cable. The other end is connected to the heater control valve. This has all be en apart about 6+ weeks so I can’t recall every connection. I also see a cable connection to the right side of the blower motor. This must be the fresh vs recirculate switch. I don’t even have this cable so I’ll need to find or make one.

Like so many things on this car, you become almost an install and removal expert when you do something 3 times. I’ve stopping tighten things down until the last minute because I’m all 100% sure I’ll be removing the screw or bolt in short order. It almost like you have to do it 2 or 3 times to figure it out, .

Whew….I really didn’t want to pull that out….again. Thanks

Oh crap…. I hope you are wrong Bruce. I just got the whole thing reinstalled. I found a link to a guy who documented the changing of the heater core. He puts it back together like the FSM states. Doesn’t mean he’s right but more community confirmation? http://www.maplesoft.net/datsun/repairandupgrade/heatercore/index.htm Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks guys. I was fearful you were correct. I’ve pulled it and made the changes. I always have to do tasks 2 to 3 times before I get it right. That’s holds true with the heater box. Here’s what I got now.

I need an assist. I’ve installed the heater box in the car and while looking at to make sure the 2” vent dash hoses routing in FSM I stumbled on this drawing of the heater box and how the heater hoses connect to the 2 valves. I’ve reinstalled my hoses based on the pictures I took prior to removal and it appears the FSM shows the hoses to the heater control valve opposite what I showed when I removed. (See the A and B arrows on the attachments) Can someone verify that the FSM isn’t wrong (I know it’s unlikely) but before I remove the box again in want to be 100% sure. Not sure how the setup impacts the heater system. Thanks

Those bolts were a pain. You need little hands to get in there, like many things on the Z.. I didn’t use plastic washers between the air dam and body but maybe that’s a good idea. My Air Dam isn’t fully tightened up yet. I wanted it off the ground before one of my kids hit it with a bike or skateboard doing tricks. I’ve got crap all over the place from this car, and I need to start putting it actually on the car. I have parts that I’ve put away that I can’t find now. Like new emblems and interior pieces. One day they’ll show up. Next step is to instal the heater box, get the heater hoses hooked up and get the dash in. OBTW, in a moment of stupidity, I needed to move the car out of the garage. Didn’t have time think it through not if it would start with the entire dash out and associated harnesses disconnected. I started the car only to get a nice splash of coolant shoot out the two hoses that connect to the heater core. Made a nice mess. I ended putting a fitting connecting those hose together and that solved that. Nice green puddle on the garage floor from that….duhhh. This is what happens when you have so many projects in work and forget where you left my off. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks Cliff, I remember you saying that in a previous post. I’m wondering if this would damage the new paint in the center valance with it rubbing on the air dam? I was going to look into attaching an 1” aluminum strip inside the air dam and attach turnbuckles to the center mount on the radiator crossmember. I was going to mock this up and post it on the forum. Won’t get to it for awhile with all the other stuff Im doing on the car with higher priority. I’ll take a look at how that center valance sits in there and see if it’s the best option. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I also got my freshly painted front air dam and hood grills on.

Another big hurdle in my rear view mirror. Finally sorted out the heater box, with the rebuilt valves and aftermarket retrofitted heater core. This project set me back about 6 weeks with work, waiting or parts and general figment challenges. Special thanks to Captain Obvious who swooped in to help me cross the finish line. All the hoses were bought at Auto Zone. Walked in to the back with the heater box and valves attached and found hoses that worked. These hoses weren’t cheap. 2 were around $27 each. This project has held up the interior completion to include dash install. Check it out. If anyone does this core mod and needs the hose part numbers let me know. Happy to share those.

I finally got my valance, Air Dam and hood vents back from paint. Came out great. Unfortunately I told them to hold off on painting the 3 valance pieces. I wasn’t sure if I wanted to keep the Xenon air dam or go back to stock. The message apparently didn’t get relayed to the painter so I had to pay for all of it. It’s fine, now I can go either way later on if It gets damaged or I want to got back to stock.

It had like 50 responses in a few hours. I didn’t think it was a violation of the new term “community guidelines” because it began by laying out the facts followed by members explaining the fault in his thinking. Not sure why is was shut down. What I got from the whole thing is that this individual needs help. It was one heck of a read. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Did that Datsun Spirit stealing an engine thread get deleted. I can’t find it now and tried to post on it and it failed, I think it was deleted. That was the most insane thread I’ve read on here.

Wow, you’ve be busy. Very impressive. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Dan, if you need a hazard switch let me know. I have a couple extra in my Z hoarding box. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Dave I’m having trouble with the glove box. Things don’t seem to be lining up. It’s the last thing I have left to do on the dash. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Cliff, I guess I meant inflation above the Fed target 1.8%-2%. Some things do get cheaper though. Most electronics tend to get cheaper and better. Imagine the price you paid for a computer or TV 15 years ago compared to what your get today. We have the triple whammy happening right now. 1. Covid 2. Monetary policy (QE and Interest rates). The Fed has printed 26% of all dollars in existence (M2) since 2020. Last time they did that it was to defeat the Nazis in 1942 3. Energy Costs I lived in Jackson, MS during Katrina. I learned many good lessons during that event. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk