Av8ferg

Thanks Bruce, Just measured it there is 6mm difference, slightly less than 4 pennies thickness for a mental picture. I’m going to call Pacesetter and see if thy can assist. Second option is to cut some washers and stack them in one side. I don’t have a welder (yet). Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I guess I should have researched more before asking. I knew I couldn't be the first to have this issue. 1. Make my own 2. Call Pacesetter Looks like another work stoppage!! AWOP = "Awaiting Parts" A term used in aviation when you are waiting for parts.

I really forgot what a pain I the a$$ putting the manifolds and heat shields on are on these engines. I need some child size hands. I ran into another problem. The intake manifold lower bolt flange thickness is about double the thickness of the header surface. (One of the shared bolts). This mean when you put the washer on and bolt it down the washer doesn’t even touch the header matting surface. I imagine this isn’t good and would manifest into an exhaust leak. I need a washer that is thicker on one 1/2 of it. Anyone tackled this problem? Here’s the best pic I could get showing the problem. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Great thanks. I’ll get those seals on order. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Cool, got it back together and I think I the gutter is secure. Yes I have 2 seal and a gasket to install, EuroDat is this what you were talking about? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Okay got it. It’s at 12 and o’clock. I’m going to use Permatex Ultra Gray. Guy at transmission shop said they have the best of luck with that one. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Great Dave thanks. I can see what you’re saying about getting the oil from the gear to splash into the gutter. I agree 10 o’clock is good. I found another pic in the FSM that helps a little. Take a look where mine is now. Also how far over did you spread the other side to keep it secure? Thanks for reminding me to close the trough. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Does anyone know how this oil gutter is supposed to be oriented? The FSM has a blow up but not sure if that’s representative of its actual orientation. The old one is broken off on my transmission but there is a small slit in the portion that enters the casing. Not sure if I line up the new slit in that same direction. There’s no telling if that’s right either. DaveWM or EuroDat may have replaced this gutter so if you recall please let me know. Wanna get this puppy back together today. Also is it just held in by it’s own tension? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Okay, new bushing installed. I tried to get the old one out. Built a similar tool as EuroDat but it was a no go. She was really tight so out of prudence I took it to a transmission shop and the guy had all the right tools and got it out. He also put the new one in but said it had less holes as the original and he decided to drill in two small oil return holes. You can see them on the pic. Cost me $40. He also inspected the transmission for free for me. Said it looked good and verified it had be rebuilt like we expected. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I wish I had a work trip headed that way! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yep, new screen and cover installed inside. I even blue thread locked the screws to make sure they never fell Inside the pan. I have tried using a mallet but it didn’t seems to make a difference. Maybe I need hit it harder and see what happens. I wanted to make sure they’re wasn’t something I missed before I started smacking away on it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It’s really loose. Would probably pop off on a normal drive. I recall it being somewhat tight to remove. Would a high temp sealant be a good idea? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’m back from my trip, had a pile of parts waiting for me. Decided to start with getting the manifolds on . I sprayed the gasket with copper spray ( I know this is controversial, but with headers wanted to ensure a solid seal). Anyway, I’ve been meaning to ask about this oil breather pipe. How is this thing kept on the engine. Mine is loose and I do t recall when I took it apart that there was anything keeping it in the block. See my video below for clarification. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Jim, sounds like it was worth the drive, way to keep the Z spirit alive in the middle of a global pandemic and national rioting,

Thanks for the clarification and pics, once I get homefrom work I’ll see what I can come up with. I appreciate the help! Patcon, I thought the same thing but I guess it depends how fart that tapered portion of the socket slips in. You definitely need the perfect socket for this.

EuroDat, genius approach to pulling that bushing. Let me get this straight. The socket 24mm exterior diameter coincides with the busing diameter. Slip the M12 bolt through the socket and fit it inside the 1/2”drive portion so it cannot spin. Insert the socket (w bolt) in side the casing until the threads of the M12 sticks out the rear seal area of housing. Put the thread through the hardwood 2x4 with washer and nut on opposite side. Slowly tighten nut which pulls the bushing out. How do you keep the socket from spinning or is there enough friction to overcome that as you tighten. Pretty smart!!! I like this better that hammering. I thought about those shifter bushings. Thought the brass was the way to go but it’s sounds like that might not be the case. Copy all on those other 3 seals. I’ll get them coming, Thanks !!

I don't have a yoke available. Its in the car. I guess I'll just roll the dice and try not to screw this up and follow Dave WM. Also, I'm going to leave that other side of the bearing in. When the transmission blows up driving to Nashville going over the mountains (if that ZCon happens), I'll then have time to reflect on my decisions I made today.

Nice explanation Dave. What BTW is “Coal Juice, you refer too? I think I can do this. So you heated the flange before trying to tap it out? How hard we you wailing on this before it started moving? I guess this a the prudent thing to do. I’ll try not to Jerry Lewis the hell-out of this thing. Once you start you’re committed....no going back. Did you get the same omega Bush that EuroDat had mentioned?

BTW, I might hold off on buying that Omega Bushing that EuroDat had in the parts list. I don’t see how it’s a problem. Am I missing something? I put the rear housing back on after calling a transmission repair shop. The guy said do a test fit see if there is play? Noting even touches this bushing as far as I can see. What have I missed? He said he can replace it but to see first is there is play and unless I’m missing another part that comes in the other side I can’t tell if this is required or not. I feel like an idiot. The transmission idea was beyond my pay grade. I just want it to go away with minimal risk. I tried hammering it how using a socket that fit right on the bushing lip. Didn’t budge and I didn’t want to mushroom to end of the bushing so I stopped. See pic. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks Bruce, I should have been more observant and seen that. Okay, I checked and the manifold has and extended area where the head of the nut sits on the outer manifold connections. Okay, I am at a work stoppage due to “awaiting parts”. I head on a trip to Oklahoma City for almost 4 days and a sea of packages will arrive when I’m gone so I can start back next week and my wife can give me a hard time about parts arriving. If anyone live in the OKC area let me know. I have 64 hrs layover there where I’m not working. Sitting in a hotel rotting away. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

While I’m waiting for my parts to arrive on my transmission (I really want to get that thing back together and behind me). I got parts all over my already disorganized garage. I don’t want to lose track of things. While in wait I decided to turn back to the engine build. I have parts inbound for that too. Seems like every time I turn around I realize I forgot to order something which slows the process down. My wife loves to heckle me and last week said, “your sneaking in parts for an entire car one package at time”. So, studs came in for exhaust manifold (from a 300zx part number). They’re very nice that is (S30 Driver), copper flange nuts too. Realized I hadn’t orders the gasket...”darn it”, so was doing a test fit yesterday and realized I don’t have the intake manifold bolts. No big deal right...I have an ACE hardware and they have a full line of metric stainless bolts. Not so fast. Oh, but now I discover these are unique bolts...”really, WTF” I did some research and forums state they’re M10 x 1.25 fine thread, fact or fiction?. What length?...no clue, only that they’re possibly two different lengths also. I went to MSAs site and they sell them but their explanation states two lengths too. There are two links for 2 different bolts. So, I know someone on here knows this answer. What do I need here and where do the short and long ones go on the head? Finding a M10x1.25 is unusual. All the M10 bolts I find go to 1.5 pitch, so really think I need to buy the MSA ones. Here is MSAs links and pics of my head. Any explanation as to why are there extra holes next to where the intake mounts would be nice too. (See purple circles on pic) https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/14-1710 https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/14-1709 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

ZH, thanks. I saw that shim when I pulled the cover. I have it in a safe place, where my kids can’t find and lose Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Okay I ordered the kit from Zcardepot, it came it’s the front and rear seals and the front cover gasket. https://zcardepot.com/products/transmission-rebuild-repair-kit-240z-260z-280z-zx?_pos=3&_sid=ed42e9b87&_ss=r Back to the bearing topic. So you all saw I was able to get one side of that bearing cover off. The other side doesn’t look possible. It’s too deep and inaccessible. My question is will it be okay to not remove the other side. Any potential problems if I just leave it there? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes, I was sweating it. “First do no harm”. May have violated that. Yes there is another one on the opposite side. I need to account for the debris. I’ll hit it with compressed air before reassembly. Thanks all for walking through this tranny pseudo fiasco. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Okay, I just pulled out 1/2 of that bearing seal. It was made of metal. I hope I haven’t caused any damage, by doing this. See my video below.