Av8ferg

This ECU topic is an interesting subject, I have three of them. I found a place in Memphis Tennessee while I was working that is an ECU repair shop I have thought about taking one of mine down there to have them look at it and see if they have the proper documentation and equipment to test. Even though it’s working properly I wonder if it’s really exactly like it should be since these things are so old. Dave I think I confirmed your findings as well because one of my ECUs was the automatic transmission 600 series and if I remember correctly my car would not run with it in there and that was one of the problems that the previous owner could not figure out. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Count me in on a group buy if that is feasible Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

James, thanks for the info. I’ll be getting 240z style bumper for my 77’ 280z from you guys. It will be a few months so if you anticipate an end of production on the near horizon please keep the forum informed so others don’t miss the boat! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Interesting that there were so many minor changes. I discovered while researching this that ZX series cars had many more small changes than the 280Z series. I’m going to my yard with the three 280z’s and a the 240 this week. I’m going to grab a housing out of there. If anyone has a request, please let me know. These 4 cars are mostly untouched so it makes for a great place to get hard to find or expensive parts. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So after some research in the 1982 FSM (same year as my engine). The thermostat housing has an extra sensor. I’ve circled it in the photo below. This sensor is connected to the blower fan that goes over the valve cover which attempts to cool the intake to prevent the hot start problems these motors have due to exhaust manifold proximity. I think I’ might just get a 280z housing and sell this one online or just leave it disconnected because I don’t intent to use the blower. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I think this might be the accurate configuration. BTW, the large one is the thermo time switch because I won’t fit in the head location. This set-up looks to match the publications. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It appears to have a hex plug in there Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Okay, we’ll I just removed it from the thermostat housing. I guess the PO had stuff in the wrong place. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I think the big one is the Thermotime switch, not the one going into the block. You think there is enough temp sensors on this thing...OMG! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hey guys a couple questions. I’ve disassembled the thermostat housing assemblies for cleaning (probably going to put them it in a media agitator / tumbler because it has a lot of corrosion, oil and coolant residue. It was really hard to remove those sensors. So there are several sensors in this thing. 1. Thermotime switch 2. Water temperature sensing switch 3. Thermal Transmitter 4. Water Temp Sensor. 5. Thermal Vacuum Valve Seems like a lot of redundant sensors but I plan on replacing all of them. Actually will clean and test the Thermotime switch first because that one is pretty expensive. So there is another sensor that that goes on on a block just above the Thermostat housing. It has two wire coming out. Reading online it’s another Water temp switch and is used as part of the EFI?. I was reading the EFI bible and it seems to be written for a 280z not the ZX. I realize the concepts are the same but it seems these sensors and switch might be in slightly different locations because the pics in the Bible of the sensor housing are different than what came on my 82 L28. Can anyone clear this up. See my pics My initial impression is that the TVV and the Water Temp Sensor were put in the wrong place. The TVV isn’t supposed to be on to the Thermostat housing but on the other component. Thoughts? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

My 77 has that hole. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes, the block is painted. DE1651 Cast Coat Iron from Duplicolor. I didn’t really like the look of the Datsun turquoise blue, I thought it clashed with the red engine compartment. Blasphemy to some of the Datsun hardliners but it’s a 77, not a series 1 collector car. I really like the look of this block color. I have a red powder coated valve cover and I think the colors go well together. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks for the previous advice guys. Made progress this week despite a few minor setbacks. I’ve installed the head, timing chain, timing chain cover and water pump. Here are pics from today. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It’s not that I don’t trust the damper pulley marks but just following the rebuild book which talks about using a dial indicator to set TDC before putting the head on and avoid potentially damaging a valve. The timing cover goes on after and now I can verify the position. I set TDC using the dial Indicator then temporarily placed the timing cover and damper on to validate the markings. With the crankshaft set as the video shows my damper indicates between 0 and 1 deg. Now I know exactly what the pulley should show. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Okay, planning to get the head possibly installed today. Just wanted to confirm the process I’ve used to determine TDC for cylinder #1. I’ve used a dial indicator and the video is in the link below. What do you all think? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Finally got all my pistons in. Been busy lately but finally got the last one in today. I wanted to post a pic of the rod bearing clearance. I used plastigage. The FSM says the clearance should be 0.025 to 0.055 mm. Here’s how mine came out. Looks to be to be slightly more than the .051 indicator on the plastigage wrapper. So it meets spec in my opinion. What do you all think? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Okay. Flat washers go on the two large long bolts. Locking washers on the rest. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I bought the full engine stainless steel bolt kit but haven’t put them in yet (still installing pistons) and have all the old bolts saved exactly as they were removed. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I think the lock washers go on the long bolts and flat washer on the short. I have my water pump bolts removed and stuck through a cardboard box and can confirm that in the morning when I get home. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Look at this car. A nice 280z, ready to go. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1978-datsun-280z-67/ Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I tend to agree. It’s probably worth more than $2000 because you said it “runs well”? I went back through the pics and the rust is worse than I thought. The frame rails in the engine compartment looks like they could be pretty bad. I’m concerned about what you can’t see. Walk away...find a better car. They are out there just be patient. Rust repair will drain your wallet fast. I’d rather have a non-runner with little or no rust than a running car. Getting the engine running or a replacement isn’t that expensive compared to rust and metal work. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I agree with all the comments above. That car is way way over-priced. You don’t need to feel rushed he’s not selling that car anytime soon at that price. The market is different across the country but nowhere is it that high. I paid $3800 for a rust free car that didn’t run and needed a full interior rehab. That car your looking at is a 5-7k car at the most. The rust on the door jam is concerning. If he’s at 14k it probably is not negotiable and he clearly isn’t away of The value of these cars right now. Go find another on. I see good deals all the time you’ll just have to be patient. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Well that makes sense. You seem to be doing a pretty good job regardless. It could be worse, you could live in California, it has crazy taxes, and they are so strict on vehicle inspections it makes owning a classic car very painful there too. I used to live there and had a classic VW that I had to register out of state to get it on the road there. It one of the reasons I enjoy living in the South, its super inexpensive, and the states mostly exempt older cars. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Why do cars cost more to restore in Canada? Is it a tax thing or just a smaller market resulting in higher prices. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

These are OEM Nissan rings. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk