Av8ferg

Disregard....I had my meter on the diode function not the resistance function....duh!!! 25 ohms across ground to either blue wire and 1 ohm between the blue wires Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Dave, It shows a short no matter what connection I make. Similar results if I touch any lean and the body of the antenna. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

No that’s the 280 he selling now. Here’s a pic of one of the 260s with extra parts pilled on the hood. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Found a 280z in great shape. Has rebuilt a V8 in it. No body rust. Interior in good shape except the seats are rough, guy said he wants 8k but might take less. He just sold two 260z’s for 3K each and we’re both shipped to Germany. Location is Billings Montana. I’ve seen the car in person and took these pics three days ago. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Gents, bought a used replacement antenna for my car while on a layover in Billings Montana. Got it for $20 but not sure it works or how to test it. See below pics of the antenna and the connector. I did a little research before posting and this is what I learned. The connector has three wires. Black, Blue w/ red stripe and Blue w/white stripe. The threads I read said both Blue wires are positive and one sends it up and one send it down. The black is obviusly the ground. So my understanding is just connecting a 12v battery to the positive on either blue and the ground on black should activate the antenna up or down. Does anyone know for sure before I end up damaging the antenna. Also if its not working are these things repairable? Thanks

That pic of the tree growing in the engine compartment is crazy! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Just watched the movie The Dirt on Netflix on a flight this AM. It’s movie about the story of the band Motley Crew. Anyway there was a 280z in there for about 4 seconds. 1:17:19 remaining in the movie when you see it. That band was insane. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Everything in Norway is expensive. You’ll find a buyer.

I know this isn’t TV or Movies but there is an article in the April 2019 Road and Track about Zs. The article says the name Datsun came from when Masujiro Hashimoto of Kwaishinsha Motors named his first automotive effort DAT. The first four letters of his three backers, Den, Aoyama and Takeuchi. Petty cool... learned something. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hey, nice work on a tough job. Glad I could help. That’s no easy task! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’m in the same boat as you are. I want to keep the car mostly stock but add a few ponies and have a fresh engine. I’d be happy with 200hp. Let us know when you get this rebuild started so we can follow your progress Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I recall you need to pop the plastic piece out of the handle in your first pic and then put to other end in the hole. Then you’ll be able to pop the rod back in the plastic piece. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Concur...75 or 76. You need to look at the floor boards for rust. Does it or when did it last run? All that matters when determining its value. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I know you were kidding Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The other end of the open end wrench has a ratchet Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I did this exact job last year. It is a royal PITA. It can be done, it requires some patience, preferably some small hands. Some advice: You need a ratcheting open end 10mm wrench. It was hard getting the threads started. I pulled off the long bar that goes down the the door lock at attaches with plastic clips. It took me at least 1.5 hrs to figure it out. I may have posted about it. Let me check. Good luck.....you can do it. Tip: sometimes it works to crazy glue the nut to your finger to allow you to maneuver your hand to the right spot without dropping it. Start the threading then pull your finger off. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Madkaw, What kind of EFI are you using? Sounds like he’s interested in a cam upgrade. I know a guy that had a black pearl 78 that put a performance cam in. He could never get it running smooth with EFI so he decided to switch to carbs and it was fast but it didn’t run as smooth as a stock engine. Not sure if Cronoz78 wants to keep the car injected. TI would be nice to know all the additional mods to get an EFI engine running well with a cam upgrade. Like do you need bigger injectors, fuel pressure reg?? Not sure. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Here’s a running 280z for sale 20 miles from my house for $4200. https://onslow.craigslist.org/cto/d/tarawa-terrace-1978-datsun-280z-fs-ft/6851266628.html Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So the compression check will be a solid indication as to whether or not you need to do a total rebuild. If compression is good maybe just gaskets, seals and a head cleanup might be all you need. If compression is low then maybe “while you in there mentality makes sense”. Rings and bearings for sure. My situation leads me to a total rebuild. I have 2 cylinders in the low 140’s. They should be around 170. I have a loose timing chain (stretch or the tensioner is bad.) I can hear it slapping the cover, and freeze plugs that leak due to corrosion. So I’ve decided to do the whole engine. The other side of this coin is this. You have the engine out, all the accessories removed might as well go all out and get it all done. I can appreciate this approach. I don’t like unfinished work or unknowns. If you have the time, I’d lean toward a total rebuild. The cost isn’t much more and you’ll learn a heck of a lot. As far as cams go. I’ve never been a big fan of turning a nice engine into a poorly idling engine that is just fast and not a great car to daily drive. I want a little more power but I don’t want to sacrifice a smooth running reliable engine either. They run best the way to were born minus a few minor things. Consider finding a ZX engine with a P79 head, of just the head. You’ll get some extra power and not radically change the original design. I got my ZX engine for $400, with a warranty. Start looking at car-part.com for engines around you. My 2 cents. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Here’s a post on the topic from hybridz. https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/70335-n47-head-on-a-flat-top-l28/ Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Do you know the compression ratio you’re going to get with an N47 head and flattop pistons, I’m just not sure what it would be? Looks like right now with dished pistons you would be 8.29:1. I’m going to go with the P 79 head and flat top pistons. Your chamber will be 9cc smaller than with the P79 and flat tops and that head has 8.82:1 CR. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’m looking forward to this thread. I’m about to do a full L-28 engine rebuild (my first ), so I’m interested in the same considerations. I’ve done some preliminary research and have read the first book “How To Rebuild Your Datsun Nissan OHC Engine”. Just bought the other book, “How to Modify Your Nissan Datsun OHC Engine”. My thoughts here...BTW I’m no expert. Why waste time doing a leak down test before teardown. Compression test makes some sense but your be pulling the head anyway and you’ll find out quickly if you had a bad valve or leaking head gasket. Leak down would be if you hadn’t decided you were going to or needed a rebuild. Sounds like your moving forward regardless. So my thoughts what’s the best bang for the buck after deciding what is the “End State”. You said a good street driver. With that in mind why would your replace the pistons to forged? That’s not going to make a performance difference unless you plan on boosting or really trying to make the engine high performance. Cams while able to increase power, reduce daily drivability and will require a change to the EFI to compensate. From what I’ve read on the interweb here are some good options. 1. increase displacement. If you’re set on getting new pistons then bore out the cylinders. I’ve decided not to go this route. A good honing is my plan. 2. Porting the intake and head to smooth out airflow. 3. Header and exhaust. (You’ve done that) 4. Upgraded ignition. Basics should do: -rings, bearings, valves, all seals and gaskets, timing chain kit, new hardware. (Head bolts etc..). -Good idea with turbo oil pump Shaving the head to increase compression is good option but like any mod like that needs to be done with care. If you overdo the CR upwards to 10:1 your begin to experience possible pre-ignition which will not be healthy for your engine. Unless you live near an airport and want to use 100LL aviation gas. Be prepared to pay ~$8 a gallon. For a basic rebuild, I priced all the parts and it was around $730. This included all the items I put above in “basics should do” to include new freeze plugs, complete new engine hardware, and water pump. I look forward to people who have more expertise to chime in and you’re in luck because this is where the L28 experts live. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Can I get a copy CO? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So this was a great thread. Not only did it get the questions about your car addressed but it served the entire Z community. BZ (Bravo Zulu - mil jargon for nice work) to all who have been working this issue and collaborated to set the mystery straight! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’ve been looking for that battery fuse link. They’ve move it from Latest and Greatest to the Wiring section. https://www.zzxdatsun.com/catWiring.php Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk