Av8ferg

I have an extra driver’s side door glass from a 1976. I bought it at a salvage yard but found out afterwards that they changed the windows in 1977. I have a 77 so the glass now sits in my garage wrapped in bubble wrap. I’m not sure if it would fit on a 260?

Here’s an option. Maybe try an alternate ECU. I own 2 extra ECU’s and have tested them. I found one on EBay for $25 and another from a yard for $50. It’s also good to just have spares of some items. As these car age some parts will become harder and harder to find. Just an idea. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

This guy walks you through all the ignition system testing on a 280z and explains some interesting facts about the 280z coil. It might help you out. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’ve attached some pics to help you out. Having a filter on the return line make zero sense. The pervious owner may not have understood which line was which. A pre-filter is not a factory thing. People starting do it as these cars aged and tanks got old. It makes sense to have a filter before the pump to protect it from clogging as it’s an expensive pump. This cheap fram plastic filter won’t hurt fuel flow as they have a very low resistance to flow. The great part is you can now visually inspect what coming out of your tank and change this in 5 mins for $3. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Wise man! I’m going with that tactic. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So I frequently search online for 280z parts and such, typically on Craigslist via Search Tempest. I’ve noticed over the past ~18 months I seen a lot more adds saying, “looking for a 240z or 280z”. Are you all seeing the demand signal for these car going up as well. Every time my wife grumbles about having this car I always tell her I can sell it in a heartbeat If I wanted and not lose $$. I’ll be curious to see how the market for these cars matures over the coming years. Here’s a search I did this AM. First 4 adds are looking for Z’s. https://fayetteville.craigslist.org/search/sss?query=280z&sort=date&bundleDuplicates=1&searchNearby=1&nearbyArea=634&nearbyArea=274&nearbyArea=335&nearbyArea=36&nearbyArea=336&nearbyArea=254&nearbyArea=48&nearbyArea=464&nearbyArea=61&nearbyArea=367&nearbyArea=60&nearbyArea=272&nearbyArea=128&nearbyArea=41&nearbyArea=366&nearbyArea=101&nearbyArea=289&nearbyArea=290&nearbyArea=457&nearbyArea=462&nearbyArea=291&nearbyArea=353&nearbyArea=447&nearbyArea=446&nearbyArea=253&nearbyArea=171&nearbyArea=712&nearbyArea=323 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

This had happened to me in two different vehicles. -1975 MGB -1982 Toyota MR2 Problem clogged fuel filter due it excessive debris in fuel tank (rust). I’d let the car sit a few minutes and it would start right back up. I would investigate your fuel system. A lot of guys will put a cheap $3 Fram paper fuel filter between the tank and pump. It’s clear so you’ll get a good idea what the fuel looks like exiting the tank. If you just put a new filter on in the engine compartment you’ll just reclog it if you’re have excessive debris in your tank. So put this cheap filter on and it will confirm or eliminate your fuel tank as the culprit. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

ZedHead, is that a good book to help me with my build? I’m not going crazy tying to build a race car. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So I’m spending the weekend cleaning my single car garage (we never park cars in there too much other crap, like 7 bicycles, a Golf Cart, Beer Fridge, power tool and a work bench). I’m clearing out a corner and once the engine arrives I’ll throw a blanket over it, on the engine stand I just bought. It will take about 4-5 days before I get a pic texted to me saying “what is this?”. Thanks for all the advice guys. I was dead set on the Turbo until you all steered me away. No offense to the pro turbo guys but I just don’t want all the tech work nor constantly fidgeting with it. If I can somehow get about 200-220 HP of of this engine I’ll be happy. Even if I can’t just a clean reliable engine will suffice. Have you guys seen this guys vids on the L28 rebuild. What are your thoughts? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Did you guys see this new 280z video. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Well, the Engine rebuild book arrived today. My wife opened the package, “she yells from he door....we got a “Nissan Datsun Engine Rebuild book”. Me: cough cough...okay great. She’s smart she knows somethings in the hopper. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Well, I told her this is better than gambling, drinking to excess and all sorts of unhealthy things men do. ;). I need an outlet and turning wrenches is one way. I’ll get a text when I am work in two weeks, it will be pic of the engine in the garage and she’ll say..”what is this”. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It’s a P79. It looks pretty clean. I pulled the dip stick, it was already drained but looked clean. I didn’t see any major leaks or rust around the block of this engine. The fact that he’ll delivery it and it’s 15 miles from my house make this the winner. He’s giving me a 60 day money back guarantee that it will run without any major mechanical problems. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So here are two more I found. First 1982’ had 148k miles when pulled. Runs. $490 delivered to my house. Second has 202k miles and N47 head. Says “rebuildable”. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

First stop. Place had the wrong engine data. Looks like a 260z engine to me. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It has new plugs. I did a valve adjustment but may not have not done it that well. It was like 22 deg outside when I did it. My biggest concern is the white exhaust smoke. With the freeze plugs rusted out, not sure what type of internal rust is in there. I also believe there are some vacuum leaks. The idle adjustment really has no effect other than making it idle worse. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Here’s a video I took two days ago of my Z running at my parents barn.. You can see she’s running rough. Haven’t been able to smooth it out. Low idle, sputters, and some clickety-clack etc... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Great comments guys. This place is a great resource and I appreciate all the comments. I’m going to look at two of the engines today. I’ll take pics and post them because I know someone on this forum will see something I miss. I’ll also swing by harbor freight and see about the borescope. Gonna need an engine stand too. I’ll see the last engine one in about 10 days and make the choice then. In the meantime I’ll start reading the engine rebuild book I bought on Amazon. Can’t wait the see my wife’s eyes when she finds an engine in our tiny and already stuffed garage. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Cliff, my N47 has a spray bar only I believe. I didn’t see holes in the cam lobes for oil purposes. Good idea on the notebook. So, I’m going with the general consensus that the 82’ NA is the way to go. I think it has a P79 not the P90 the P90 was in the turbo engine. I’m surprised no one voted for the N42 head engine in the 76’. Good advice on making sure it turns by hand and getting a Bluetooth borescope. Buying the rebuild book tonight on Amazon. Wayne, yes that’s pulled. I’m going to look at two of the engines tomorrow, the third is 2 hrs away (near where we went last time) and will have to wait a week or so. The plan is to bring it to my house and start tearing it down here and drive my wife nuts. I’m hoping it will fit in then back of my 4Runner on a pallet. I need to think this part through as it probably weighs in excess of 450#s. May need to borrow a truck or a small trailer...may need your help! Good thing I just had shoulder surgery 2 weeks ago! Supposed the be on light duty for 4-6 weeks. I imagine my doctor would be opposed to me trying to lift engines alone. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Cool, didn’t know that. So my N47 head in that 82’ block could yield higher CR than the P79 head. This begs the question, when you do stuff like this are you changing the way the engine runs. I’m not looking to drive an engine that runs like crap. I see this happen with guys who build muscle car engines and put cams etc on them. Sure they’re powerful but also run and idle like crap. I want a smooth engine. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Okay, I think the turbo is a no go. I don’t need more trouble and this will be my first engine rebuild. So help with the heads, pistons and compression for a strong street car. P90 Head was for turbos. Came with dished pistons and lower Compression Ration to accommodate for the boost. P79 was the NA turbo ZX engine with flat top pistons. This will yield a higher compression ration. ZH...copy all on my N47 in my car now an be used. There are 3 non-turbos at different places in my area. One is an 1980 and others are 82’s. Two of the places want a core charge....one $100 the other $200. That’s silly. I agree...look for the cleanest engine that seems less abused and with least miles and least rust and old leaks. P79 is the Head I want corrrect? This way I may not have to buy replacement flat top pistons as I would if I went with the P90 Head engine. Unless someone swapped them before which we’ll assume for this discussion....didn’t happen.

ZedHead....here’s my takeaways from your post. Turbo mean lots of tuning work and extra stuff to do. Are you saying the NA engine isn’t flat top pistons? I thought hey were and dished on the Turbo. I don’t think I want all that extra work but it sounds like megasquirt is the way to go either way. So It’s not a good idea to use my current EFI stuff on the 82’ engine? Are you voting for the 82’ non-turbo. After reading all this I’m seeing that the turbo might be the wrong direction. My Goal...reliable, strong engine that is low maint and fun to drive. A little power is just fun to have Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That’s 3 votes for the 82’ non-turbo so far! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks Cliff. I drove a turbo once in like 1989. It was a peppy little car and fun to drive. I know there was like 1 turbo for every non-turbo built so they’re harder to find for sure. I forgot about a new ECU and probably AFM and wire harness. Maybe the guy would throw those in....probably not? I’ll wait for ZedHead to chime in. He always has good comments. Starting to think a 240 not rusted out is becoming like a unicorn these days. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

What do you mean by a lot more work with regards to the turbo version? Is the power increase of the turbo not worth the effort and cost? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk