Av8ferg

This had happened to me in two different vehicles. -1975 MGB -1982 Toyota MR2 Problem clogged fuel filter due it excessive debris in fuel tank (rust). I’d let the car sit a few minutes and it would start right back up. I would investigate your fuel system. A lot of guys will put a cheap $3 Fram paper fuel filter between the tank and pump. It’s clear so you’ll get a good idea what the fuel looks like exiting the tank. If you just put a new filter on in the engine compartment you’ll just reclog it if you’re have excessive debris in your tank. So put this cheap filter on and it will confirm or eliminate your fuel tank as the culprit. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

ZedHead, is that a good book to help me with my build? I’m not going crazy tying to build a race car. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So I’m spending the weekend cleaning my single car garage (we never park cars in there too much other crap, like 7 bicycles, a Golf Cart, Beer Fridge, power tool and a work bench). I’m clearing out a corner and once the engine arrives I’ll throw a blanket over it, on the engine stand I just bought. It will take about 4-5 days before I get a pic texted to me saying “what is this?”. Thanks for all the advice guys. I was dead set on the Turbo until you all steered me away. No offense to the pro turbo guys but I just don’t want all the tech work nor constantly fidgeting with it. If I can somehow get about 200-220 HP of of this engine I’ll be happy. Even if I can’t just a clean reliable engine will suffice. Have you guys seen this guys vids on the L28 rebuild. What are your thoughts? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Did you guys see this new 280z video. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Well, the Engine rebuild book arrived today. My wife opened the package, “she yells from he door....we got a “Nissan Datsun Engine Rebuild book”. Me: cough cough...okay great. She’s smart she knows somethings in the hopper. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Well, I told her this is better than gambling, drinking to excess and all sorts of unhealthy things men do. ;). I need an outlet and turning wrenches is one way. I’ll get a text when I am work in two weeks, it will be pic of the engine in the garage and she’ll say..”what is this”. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It’s a P79. It looks pretty clean. I pulled the dip stick, it was already drained but looked clean. I didn’t see any major leaks or rust around the block of this engine. The fact that he’ll delivery it and it’s 15 miles from my house make this the winner. He’s giving me a 60 day money back guarantee that it will run without any major mechanical problems. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So here are two more I found. First 1982’ had 148k miles when pulled. Runs. $490 delivered to my house. Second has 202k miles and N47 head. Says “rebuildable”. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

First stop. Place had the wrong engine data. Looks like a 260z engine to me. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It has new plugs. I did a valve adjustment but may not have not done it that well. It was like 22 deg outside when I did it. My biggest concern is the white exhaust smoke. With the freeze plugs rusted out, not sure what type of internal rust is in there. I also believe there are some vacuum leaks. The idle adjustment really has no effect other than making it idle worse. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Here’s a video I took two days ago of my Z running at my parents barn.. You can see she’s running rough. Haven’t been able to smooth it out. Low idle, sputters, and some clickety-clack etc... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Great comments guys. This place is a great resource and I appreciate all the comments. I’m going to look at two of the engines today. I’ll take pics and post them because I know someone on this forum will see something I miss. I’ll also swing by harbor freight and see about the borescope. Gonna need an engine stand too. I’ll see the last engine one in about 10 days and make the choice then. In the meantime I’ll start reading the engine rebuild book I bought on Amazon. Can’t wait the see my wife’s eyes when she finds an engine in our tiny and already stuffed garage. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Cliff, my N47 has a spray bar only I believe. I didn’t see holes in the cam lobes for oil purposes. Good idea on the notebook. So, I’m going with the general consensus that the 82’ NA is the way to go. I think it has a P79 not the P90 the P90 was in the turbo engine. I’m surprised no one voted for the N42 head engine in the 76’. Good advice on making sure it turns by hand and getting a Bluetooth borescope. Buying the rebuild book tonight on Amazon. Wayne, yes that’s pulled. I’m going to look at two of the engines tomorrow, the third is 2 hrs away (near where we went last time) and will have to wait a week or so. The plan is to bring it to my house and start tearing it down here and drive my wife nuts. I’m hoping it will fit in then back of my 4Runner on a pallet. I need to think this part through as it probably weighs in excess of 450#s. May need to borrow a truck or a small trailer...may need your help! Good thing I just had shoulder surgery 2 weeks ago! Supposed the be on light duty for 4-6 weeks. I imagine my doctor would be opposed to me trying to lift engines alone. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Cool, didn’t know that. So my N47 head in that 82’ block could yield higher CR than the P79 head. This begs the question, when you do stuff like this are you changing the way the engine runs. I’m not looking to drive an engine that runs like crap. I see this happen with guys who build muscle car engines and put cams etc on them. Sure they’re powerful but also run and idle like crap. I want a smooth engine. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Okay, I think the turbo is a no go. I don’t need more trouble and this will be my first engine rebuild. So help with the heads, pistons and compression for a strong street car. P90 Head was for turbos. Came with dished pistons and lower Compression Ration to accommodate for the boost. P79 was the NA turbo ZX engine with flat top pistons. This will yield a higher compression ration. ZH...copy all on my N47 in my car now an be used. There are 3 non-turbos at different places in my area. One is an 1980 and others are 82’s. Two of the places want a core charge....one $100 the other $200. That’s silly. I agree...look for the cleanest engine that seems less abused and with least miles and least rust and old leaks. P79 is the Head I want corrrect? This way I may not have to buy replacement flat top pistons as I would if I went with the P90 Head engine. Unless someone swapped them before which we’ll assume for this discussion....didn’t happen.

ZedHead....here’s my takeaways from your post. Turbo mean lots of tuning work and extra stuff to do. Are you saying the NA engine isn’t flat top pistons? I thought hey were and dished on the Turbo. I don’t think I want all that extra work but it sounds like megasquirt is the way to go either way. So It’s not a good idea to use my current EFI stuff on the 82’ engine? Are you voting for the 82’ non-turbo. After reading all this I’m seeing that the turbo might be the wrong direction. My Goal...reliable, strong engine that is low maint and fun to drive. A little power is just fun to have Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That’s 3 votes for the 82’ non-turbo so far! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks Cliff. I drove a turbo once in like 1989. It was a peppy little car and fun to drive. I know there was like 1 turbo for every non-turbo built so they’re harder to find for sure. I forgot about a new ECU and probably AFM and wire harness. Maybe the guy would throw those in....probably not? I’ll wait for ZedHead to chime in. He always has good comments. Starting to think a 240 not rusted out is becoming like a unicorn these days. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

What do you mean by a lot more work with regards to the turbo version? Is the power increase of the turbo not worth the effort and cost? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Gents, I’m considering getting a replacement engine for my 1977 280z. First the back story. The car has an engine that runs but has a myriad of issues that make it ripe for removal and likely rebuild and or replacement. Odometer currently reads 28k. It was locked up when I bought the car, and broke t free with som mystery oil. So I’m assuming it’s 128k. 1. Some of the freeze plugs are leaking due to rust from the inside. I’ve temp fixed those with JB weld. 2. I’m getting what I think it timing chain slap. I hear a what sounds like the chain is hitting the cover as the RPM retards from a rev. So I’m might have a tensioner problem. 3. I may have a head gasket leak because my exhaust seems to have an unusual amount of white smoke. 4. Cold compression check had 2 cylinders in the mid to high 140’s while the others were in the 160-170’s. Bottom line , I want a reliable motor that I can enjoy with peace of mind. So this is why I’m asking the question. I can’t bring my car to my house for a least 6 more months because I don’t have room for it, and currently building a new house with an 1,100sq ft garage. I do have room to rebuild an engine while I wait for the car to come home,, plus I need a project...I always need one. My thought is a good motor can be ready for install when the car gets here, I’ll keep the old motor as a backup or sell it. So a yard near me has three complete L28 engines available. All are sitting in cars. 1976 L28 with N42 head 1982 L28et with P90 head (turbo) 1982 L28 with P90 hean (non-turbo) He wants $400 for any of the engines with all the parts and pieces. If I want the turbo with the L28et he wants an extra $100. I’m considering going with the L28et. It might be nice to have the extra power if I’m spending the money to rebuild an engine anyway. My goal to to have a fun, reliable car that will mostly be a weekend driver. I’m not after a show car or track car. Finally, what do you think will be a cost estimate for an average rebuild if I do most of the work myself? So which engine? I want to grab one before they disappear. He said he sold his other L28et last month. Thanks.

When I got my car the engine hadn’t run in 18 yrs. It was locked up big time. I pulled the plugs and poured Marvel Mystery Oil in the spark plug holes and let it sit 24 hrs. Tried to hand crank it was only moving a small amount. I cycled the wrench on the cam bolt turning it both CW then CCW. It would move on a few inches. Poured more in and let it sit another 24hrs and the next day it hand cranked right over. I also put assembly lube on the cam lobes before cranking with starter. She runs fine now and compression is in the normal range. So don’t be rushed...take it slow and work it back and fourth over time or you risk damaging something in there like a piston ring. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Cool find. Your decision is completely dependent on what you want and what you have time, money and motivation you have for a project. Do you want it to be a daily driver, a weekend cruiser? Old cars take time and space so you need to see if it fits your lifestyle and family situation now. I had wanted a project for the past 20+ years but with family, career, finances it was just not possible. I had too many other competing priorities. I bought a 280z after I retired from 24 yrs in the military and was ready and had time to tackle it. I’ve had lots of cool cars in the past that I wish I kept but you CAN’T keep them all. I had a 75 MGB, a 93 RX-7 and 69 Pontiac Malibu. I liked all of them but let them go for other priorities like reliable cars for work and family. The only one I really wish I kept was the 93 RX-7. You can always find your dream car in the future, you might pay more but I’ve learned it’s cheaper to pay for a car already redone than doing it yourself. If you love this car and have time and desire, then keep it. If you just thinks it’s okay, they you might not have the enduring motivation to see if through it’s resurrection, and you be throwing money at something you don’t love. If you think something else is more your preference then sell it and use the money for your other ventures until the time is right and then get exactly what your want. It’s had to throw $$ and time at something your don’t really love. I bought a 280z over a 240z mostly because of it higher availability in the marketplace. Other smaller factors were: less rust issues, increased design refinement of S30 to include engine, differential, tranny, accessories and reliability etc. I still love the look of the 240 over the 280 but minus the bumpers and changes in lights and badging it’s almost unnoticeable to the untrained eye. I’m always on the look out for a 240z. I wanna be like cliff (Siteunseen) and have both. I’m in the process of building a 5 car garage to fit my toys. If you decide to sell it, there are folks on this forum including me that would be interested. If you keep it, then enjoy it and take the advice of the people on this forum, they’ll lead you in the right direction. Good luck with the Brewery...it’s something I have always thought would be cool to do. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Cliff, Let’s wait until I get a 240z and then we can work on running the prices up. I’m still looking [emoji6] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So this is called a jumped or floated title. Each state may deal with the problem differently but your best bet is to go to the DMV and tell them the situation. I learned this the hard way as I have a 280z with a jumped title too. I live in NC and it requires me to have the vehicle inspected by a law enforcement officer who verifies the VIN placard and title. Then I have to pay $150 to place an indemnity bond on the car. I get a temp title for 3 yrs until the bond expires and I get an official title. It’s a pain but should be doable but you must talk to a DMV rep first. Hope this helps Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Dennis, missed that. Good catch. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk