Av8ferg

I was called in to work for an overnight trip but here’s what I got done before I left. - new water pump and thermostat installed. - with everything so easily accessible up front and because what I found in the pump I decided to pull the radiator. I took it to a shop in town and had it tested. I watched as he tossed it in a tank with air pressure on it and it leaked like a sieve. That cost me $35. So I ordered and new aluminum 2 core radiator from Champion, exact one they sell at MSA but mine was on sale for $159. - with the AFM pulled free from the intake but still connected electrically, I sprayed carb cleaner into then intake after opening then butterfly valve with the throttle. I then turned the car over. It made a big “pop” sound and then I saw a flame shoot out the intake. I don’t think I’ll do that again. When I get back from my work trip here are the next tasks on my list. - install the extra set of injectors that I’ve tested and cleaned. - pull the fuel pump, clean that smalll screen on the intake side and then put 12v to it and see if it runs I’m also going to test the one I have in a parts bin I bought. If both of the pumps are bad, I’ll pull one apart and see if something is repairable or rusted. My last resort after is buy a new pump. They are expensive. Question.....I can buy a OEM style which are in the $300 ball park range or get a different looking non-OEM from a box auto store for $99? Here are the difference in the looks of those pumps. finally I’m going to start testing the ECU connections as mentioned, the coil and the Distrutor. Good ide to check where the rotor is pointing of the #1 fire stroke. . I’m not exactly sure what Zed Head was saying but it sounds like I need to check the gap in my distributor??? Can you clarify that task? Thank again guys.....you are all awesome and I’m very appreciative. When I’m done and any of you any of the extra part I have let me know. I’m happy to make parts donations,

Well, I used your plug firing order guide and mine we completely different, so I moved as you directed. Here’s what I got now.does this look right?

Sweet, I’m on it and proceeding as directed. Will report back later. Just got the water pump off....what a mess in there. Check out the before and after I clean it up pics. I’m now pulling the radiator and taking it to a shop to have the cleaned and tested.

Gents, I’ve made progress. Here’s where I am now. I replaced the fusible links with brand now ones. I cleaned all the leads to those as well. I replaced the positive battery connection and have a new battery (Interstate group 34). I got in the car and magically it began to crank easily when I turned the key. I was very surprised. I cranked it 5 to 6 times for 6-8 seconds. No luck, no start. I wanted to see if fuel was getting to the engine so I checked the extra (clear plastic) fuel filter I placed between the tank and pump. It was completely dry. I don the know but it appears the pump is either not coming on or it’s broken, not sure right now which is the case. I read that the AFM has an internal switch that activates the pump so I sprayed carb cleaner in the intake to the AFM to see if I could get some flammable vapor into the intake. Cranked and nothing. I pulled the AFM....those hoses were ripped and cracked badly. I have the pre and post AFM hoses on order. $55 for the AFM to intake hose..ouch. While I’m waiting on those parts I want to test the pump. I have an extra set of injectors that I’ve cleaned out and tested by putting 3v on the leads (2 D cell batteries) and spayed carb cleaning through while adding voltage to leads. (Found a video on how to do this and it worked great) They sprayed nicely. I’m going to install these in the car and pull the old ones. I’ve installed a fuel pressure gauge from the exit of the main fuel filter in the engine bay. Right now I’m getting zero fuel into the system. I want to test the fuel pump but not sure what the best approach is for that. I have an extra (old) pump that I got with a box of extra parts I got from a guy in town but, I don’t know if it works. He pulled it when he installed carbs into his 78 280z. Can I put 12 volts directly from the battery to test that old pump and see ifit works? I don the want to fry it if that’s too much current. While I’m waiting on the AFM hoses, I’ve decided to replace the water pump too. $20 from auto zone. I’m assuming with all the white powder and the disintegrated (1/2 missing Thermostat) I found in the Thermostat housing the pump is probably trashed. I have new radiator hoses and Thermostat so I will get the cooling system back on line. I’m also going to replace all the vacuum hoses today while I wait on those AFM hoses. BTW I have 2 extra AFMs, is there a way to test these things? BTW, the spark plug wires were off plugs when I got the car How do I know which plug goes to the corrrct spark plug? I’m not 100% sure they’re correct right now. So what do you guys think is the next step?

Thanks all, you guys rock. I have my marching orders and will report back in a few days. Here’s my game plan 1. Clean all electrical connections in engine compartment. 2. Flush the fuel system, inspect the added (clear plastic) filter and and use that to assess the fuel tank condition, if debris comes out of the tank, take it to a radiator shop and have them crack it open and clean and refinish. 3. Check all ignition connections off the ignition switch and reference the wiring diagrams, I’ve already ordered a new starter $33 Current temp conditions pending we’ll see how far I get. BTW I found some old seats from a 75 280z at a salvage yard 90 miles away. $75 for both, I’ll grab them and some other parts off that 1975 in the yard. Anything I should look for that’s hard to find in S30’s while I’m there?

It’s been below freezing all week and I don’t want to damage the block by putting in water alone.

Thanks guys for guidance. Okay a new starter is $35 at Advanced Auto. I think the one I have is pretty shot. When I did the compression check I turned to engine over jumping the pos and neg posts on the starter and about 1/2 the time the thing spun but didn’t engage so I think the solenoid is going. Okay, I was concerned about the fuel system too. I impacted all the hoses and they look solid. I am concerned about pushing bad fuel into the stystem but all the lines were completely empty with I installed the new fuel pump and when I installed to additional filter in the line exiting the tank. I bought 2 gallons of premium gas and a can of sea foam. Was thinking of disconnecting the hose to the main fuel filter and pumping the new gas from the tank in to a bucket and see what enters the clear filter I installed and push out an line debris into the bucket. Thioughts,? I think I’ll download those wiring diagrams and see what I find. Wilco on cleaning up the electrical connections. Is it okay to start the engine with a dry cooling system? Won’t let it run long if is starts. I don’t want to put new antifreeze only to dump it when I have to flush all the corrosion in the engine jackets. Considering a new water pump and radiator too.

Zed Head, The fuel was brown, didn’t see any particles. No sure if the pump is working and haven’t researched how to test it. I did install a pre-filter between tank and pump to keep particles from entering the pump if it had rust in it. The car came from CA and the paperwork I have showed it was repossessed from a guy living in Sacramento in 1998, CA plate registration is 1998 so I’m confident it has seen a road under its own power since. The body has no rust which is amazing. No rust on rockers, battery area or rear hatch. It’s really a rust free. The only rust is one floor board drain plug that rusted out, it appears someone under coated the car early in its life and that ma have saved it. Odometer shows 107k. I debated just putting a rebuild L28 and put all this behind me but thought I give this engine a chance. What am I trying to get out of it? I want to eventually restore this car and hang on to it, but right now I just want is to reliably start and drive. Its cold right now I’m my garage , sucks to work on in the temps.

Your ride is sweet. I’ll look at those links you sent. I did replace one of the fusible links that was broken, forgot to mention that. I just don’t know what to do next. I think I’ll buy a new stater, they’re cheap and I’ll eventually need one. I need to start canceling probable issues. I gues I need to get a wiring diagram and test the connections and relays. They guy I bought it from had the interior TOTOALY stripped out except the dash so I don’t know whats connnected and what’s not. He also threw away the cars seats so I’m hunting for some original replacements I can refurbish. I’m seatless ?

Hey, just bought a 1977 Z that im waking from a long +15 year comma. Loloking for guidance as to what i should do and in what order. Compression check done. All Cylinder are in the 180s except 1 which showed 145. I changed all the plugs, oil and filters. I also drained the old fuel and fuel filter. Radiator was empty and thermostat had disentegrated cavities in the cooling systme had white powered residue. Car will only turn over when i jump the starter leads with a screw driver and get nothing, no power when tunring the ignition key, So what do you all recommend I do next? Will post pics of the car when i bought it. Ive had it about 10 days.