Halo8u

***Update*** Hooked up the new ignition components, car has great spark, and runs. I'm going to also swap out the gas for a higher octane and give an in depth analysis on how it runs with the new components. All in all, I have spark back, and I'm a happy camper :) a few more notes: I went with an 'Accel' ICM, on an ACDelco heatsink and a MSD blaster 2 ign coil. Also used 10g wire for everything. Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile

Hope so, I hate spending money, but god do I love ordering car parts haha. I'll update you soon. Any recommendation on a specific hei module? I wish I wouldn't have accidentally broken the coil that was originally in the car. It was an old school Mallory. Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile

Also my test was from + to - on the coil which I got .2ohms, second test was from + or - (I tried both) to the center. Which I got 5.4kohms. Just to clarify how i reached those numbers. Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile

Gotcha. And my module is kinda funky looking, discolored in the middle, I would guess heat. But, I need a better heatsink and mounting surface anyways. I'm going to get a new coil and ign module with a heatsink. This setup has seen hell from trying to revive the car. With crappy wiring too. Now that I have new wires, itd be good to start with all fresh parts. I'll order the parts tomorrow and update you when they've arrived and I install them. Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile

Got my specs from MSD's website. Blaster 2 coil is .7ohm primary and 4.5k secondary. I dont even know what primary and secondary means in this application honestly. Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile

The test you told me to do got me around 5.4k ohms. Spec says it should be 4.5k Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile

So, primary resistance should be around 0.7 ohms, I'm getting .2 Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile

Could be, I put my multimeter in the wire coming out of the coil that goes into the dizzy and have constant 12v from that Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile

I'm getting full 12v from the coil to the dizzy cap. So the coil is fine, so my issue is now leading me to a distributor issue, maybe. Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile

Well now I can't get any spark to start it and check haha. And yeah, I thought it was good in March too. Weird thing is that it idled fine back then too. Idling at 800-900 perfect. It just started doing this weird spark drop thing recently, and I haven't messed with any wiring. Kinda pointing towards a faulty piece of equipment rather than a wiring issue. Either dizzy or the ign module. Also, the dizzy is reading 720ohms.... that doesn't sound right compared to 250 .... dizzy could be done for Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile

Fuel pump is electric in working order. I have it wired manually to a switch. I have an Edelbrock 5-7psi 38gph pump running to a holley 4 barrel 390cfm carb. Fuel and air seems not to be the issue as it was running great aside from spark cutting out (I have dialed in the carb as well). The ignition system is almost completely isolated from the cars harness aside from a few wires (tach, and a few grounds). That's the reason I'm thinking it's the ignition module itself. It had spark before, now it doesnt after the rewire. Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile

Let me break down what happened. -attempted to swap wires on 'G' and 'W' -depinned my 'G' lead when pulling it -rewired it, car did the same thing even when switched. -tested my positive lead coming from my harness to my unit, turned out I was getting a fluctuating voltage, and it would cut out after a few seconds. -decided to clean up my old crusty wires and rewire everything -ran a new 12v to my unit, confirmed 12v -now I'm at a loss So im not sure what the coil and ballast resistor are supposed to read, but I'm getting 12v on both posts of my ignition coil, and 12v on my + and - on my ballast resistor. I could be wrong, probably am, but naturally I would think I would have 0v on my - lead on my coil, and my ballast resistor. Lack of knowledge and from so much digging has me at a loss. Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile

Additional note** old wires were pretty crusty, that's my reason for rewiring it. And to tidy up my engine bay too. Air gap looked in spec Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile

So I rewired all of my ignition system. Confirmed 12v at coil. But my leads coming off my dizzy are getting 1.3V in the "On" position. Pretty certain my wiring is correct, could I have burnt out my hei module when I rewired it? Not sure what's going on Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile

Another clue, the tach drops first and then the engine dies. Immediately after. So now I'm almost 100% sure it's something to do with the ignition system, i.e. a swapped wire or a poor ground. What all is involved with adjusting the air gap? Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile

The car will idle low, only if the dizzy is turned all the way counterclockwise. Unsure if that's advanced or retarded. It will idle around 1k to 1100RPM. But I get a very low vacuum reading that way, and the car stumbles. If it's around the middle of the adjustment area, it idles for a moment, then dies. When I get home I will run a voltage check. Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile

Hey guys, so I'm back with more issues haha. So I've been wrenching on the Z for months. It's getting really close to driving condition. I'm just running into another spark issue now. The car cranks, runs, and is quite rev happy when the carb is dialed in. But I seem to have an issue where the car will start, then die maybe 3 seconds of running if the idle is anything under 1500RPM. After I tried all sorts of carb tuning, and idle adjustments, it still wont idle correctly. I pulled a plug wire and did a spark check. Very strong spark, but after a few seconds of running, it stops sparking, and dies. Could this be a wiring issue (I did the gm hei swap as guided through earlier in this thread), or could it be an alternator or voltage regulator issue? Been messing with it for weeks and I'm stumped. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance. Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile

Hey guys. Quick update. Did some research and visual inspections. I have an e88 head on my l28 block. I've heard mixed things about that head. I like the higher comp ratio but idk. I also need a fuel cell because my tank is toast and I'm not trying to spend $400-$600 on an OE tank. "Do it in a Datsun"

Welp, I'm a dummy. I didn't have the blue wire hooked to the coil. It works great now. Perfect response. Now just to figure out this temp sensor. I bought a new one today. Hope it works. "Do it in a Datsun"

I'll do some more troubleshooting tonight when I get off work. I have the gm hei up near the coil in the engine bay. The wires that ran to the factory tiu in the pass. floorboard are in limbo. What should I do with them? Cut them back and tape them up? Or is there a way to completely delete them? "Do it in a Datsun"

Gotcha. I'm not too good with colors. I'm colorblind haha "Do it in a Datsun"

Is this what you were talking about? "Do it in a Datsun"

https://drive.google.com/file/d/173O2wGRXimaOVfmhbjCkzBm8E5NG1l-_/view?usp=drivesdk This is the exhaust clip of it running. Not really important to the thread but exciting and would like to share it with the people who helped me to get it started. "Do it in a Datsun"

Gotcha. Will definitely look into that. And thank you. Hearing it crank was such an amazing feeling. It sounds amazing. "Do it in a Datsun"

I just hate how much the car was modified before I got it. It's been converted to Carb, and it throws a lot of stuff off. There are a lot of wires that would go to the ecu, which doesn't exist in my car. But when I get home I'll snap a pic of my wiring setup. Setup kind of shotty right now because I'm still testing. Once everything works properly I'll solder all joints and heat shrink, just to get everything neat and tidy. But being converted to carb throws me off a bit with a lot of these diagrams "Do it in a Datsun"