240z70
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Everything posted by 240z70
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I am looking for small mufflers that I can possibly use. The new CA rules are no more than 95 decibels 3/4 of Power and read at 20 inches from the exaust. Contrary to what some people say about it not affecting classic/vintage or presmog cars <1975) this is not the case. The new law changes the penalty from a fix it ticket to a mandatory fine, and a mandatory visit to the state ref and a visit to the judge. The visit to the state ref puts your entire car under the microscope and even though it does not need to be smogged, it must have all factory polution equipment that came with the motor beign used. The visit to the judge will settle the case and the fine is 1000 dollars plus all repairs already expended. It also shifts the compliance issue from the state ref to the time you got the citation. You cant get the citation fix the problem, and go to the state and pass then go to court. You must prove that at the time you were stopped that you were compliant. The state inspection is just to prove you fixed the problem, all the required equipment is there and you are ready to go see the judge once they test your car and give you the compliance paperwork.. As stated above, some people think and wrote about it not pertaining to classic/vintage or pre-smog. Not true. The law reads as such (meaning of) : .....all vehicles subject to registration in CA are subject to.....no more than 95 decibels at 3/4 of power......when measure at 20 inches from the exaust...... etc.... no exemptions except for motorcycles, vehicles over 6000 lbs and off road vehicles not allowed to drive on the street. So, I dont want the hassle, dont care about losing a few hp if need be, howeve I do want a car that is compliant and will not give me legal headaches. So can anyone suggest a good SMALL quiet muffler that will keep the car under 95 db at 4500 rpm? My current set up is 6 into 2 into 1x2.5 inch, then splits into two 2 inch, each of which goes to a side slot underneath the side bumper behind the wheel wells. I am very limited in room since the gas tank is custom made and occupies the entire room underneath not leaving the original space on the left side open to accomodate a muffler. Any ideas????? Either 2 smaller mufflers for sides or one flat on the main, or perhaps some insert silencers??????
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No, not the linkage under the hood but the lever on the console that controls the RPM...Like a suicide lever since it acts like a cruise control but without any way to lower the rpm unless you move the lever or shut off the engine.....very hand but not for cruise control.....LOL.....it came on very early z but mine is missing it.
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Sorry. it was a typo. the choices I pondered were 1/8 with a stainless shield 1/16" underneath or just go thicker with a 3/16 aluminum and no shield. Decided to go with the 3/16 Alum. If i had gone with the stainless shield it would have cost a decent amount in order to form the sump etc.. so i decided to go thicker on the tank and share the extra strength all around in its thicker construction. If a rock does hit the bottom, then perhaps the difference in thickness with help and if it has to be re-welded to repair any issues, there is more material thickness to play with... Also its overall rigidity is greatly increased... I have the original 1/16 alum tank and its crap in rigidity. http://www.boydwelding.com/
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UPDATE The fuel fill was installed behind the license plate. Works great. A new Custom Aluminum Tank was manufactured by a company in the East Coast. It was mostly according to the drawing except that I changed the fittings to slip on hose instead of AN threaded. I also went with 3/16 inch thick aluminum and 3 baffles, two from front to back and one from side to side. The vents (3) and the return (1) were 3/8" and the draw was 1/2". The tank and sender were installed, however I still need to install the vent tank(Pancake). The sender is not yet wired in. Need to identify which wire is for the sender.. A new Aluminum 4-core radiatior was also procured and installed with silicon hoses, after the system was flushed. A mixture of 50/50 and 100 was utilized to bring the coolant closer to a 70/30 which is the optiomal for increasing the boiling point. A bottle of WaterWetter was also utilized in the system. All works good. Still a lot to do but buying parts when able to locate them and slowly changing/updating them.
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Not sure if this is a dead thread, but here goes. I like the 5/16 rod idea, and I was thinking that perhaps if it had a 1/8 hole punche thru 4/5ths of it, tapped and with a zerc fitting on the end, then you could do a 1/8 " inch hole 1/2 way thru the pin and now to grease it, would be really easy. If that does not work then perhaps drill and tap the center section of the hinge and put a zerc fitting there.... Question: Has anyone been successful in locating a source for the roller PIN or a SPRING that is a direct replacement sizewise?
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Thanks Zedhead. I checked the link but no cigar. It was worth a try. As far as the meter, it is the volt gauge that I am looking for. Looking to do a new combo gauge with volt gauge and temp and replace the clock. the temp will be for intake air temp.
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wal280z, the car is a 11/69 build date, so I guess 1970 would be the year. But from what i understand, the the majority of the components are the same thru 78 except for the plate that attaches to to car. All I need is the springs. If you have them and wanna part, let me know how much (shipping included ) and how to pay via a PM. I can do paypal to an email or something else. Thanks.
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Dude, sounds like you might have wanted to reverse the events, restored the car for over 25 years and married for 15 years...You would have had the best of both worlds...Just kidding, but now keep things in perspective....: love the wife and restore the car...If needed, remind her how much she loved the car....LOL. Good luck with an excellent project for both of you...Lots of memories to remember and create as the restoration progresses...Good luck. -
Wow...Beautiful, just natural and elegant. Very good tactfull taste. Huh, the car is not bad either....LOL... Hey, you should take some more pictures with some beautiful natural backgrounds. That type of picture definetely could be in a magazine. Use the same "Friend" in continuing your good taste with additional photos. If the background was different, just sceenic, this would make a great large poster. Also, had a question, your wheels look line Panasport, is that correct? If so i would appreciate it if you could give me an accurate size of the center caps. I am looking to buy blank aftermarket chrome center caps but I dont know the exact size. Thank you and keep up the good work....P.S. All kidding aside, your Z-Car does looks great....
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If you are still looking, here is one: https://maseraticompound.com/search?page=5&q=240z
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Looking for these parts: Throttle lever and Knob 240z door springs -(springs only) Functional Volt Gauge Let me know if you have it and if so how much to buy it - shipping included- to San Jose California USA If you need parts, also let me know.. I have some misc. available.
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Here you go: Merlin Motor Sports England https://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/ As far as the fuel neck vent...Yep its there, but when I finally get a new tank rebuilt, since this one is a bit thin and old and I dont know how long the repair will last, the tank will wind up with 3 vents, one front 2 sides, which will connect to fuel pancake on side wall. The pancake is triangular and has 5 lines, 3 for the tank, one to the fuel neck, and one venting to the exterior with a anti tip valve and a flame arrestor valve on the end. This its covered in case of upside down spill and flame/sparks near the vent tip. On this build, i will use the fuel neck connection, and the vent and cap off the other 3 nipples since i am not drilling anything else on this repaired tank... New tank will look more like this and i will be able to use same sender, while increasing tank height from 9.5 to 10 inches...Final Fuel Tank Design for new tank.pdf Thanks for all your help. Here are some pics you may like to see.
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England. No one in the US sells it. They air mailed it and I picked it up from FED EX yesterday. Pretty quick shipment considering where it came from. Hopefully I will be able to install it this weekend. Gotta make the main hole and the 5 SAE bolt holes for it on the aluminum tank. Gonna use a holesaw to make the hole. I also still have to find the wire under the car that leads from the sender to the gauge. I have not seen it yet. Hopefully no one removed it... If you guys know where it is supposed to be, and or have pictures, please post. Color code would also be helpfull if there are more than one wire in the bunch... Not sure if it is mixed in with the light harness for the back lights or if it comes in under card independently....???? Other news: part of my gas tank dillema was to: 1-repair or replace the custom aluminum gas tank due to leak---DONE-repaired 2- find a sender 90-10----done, and purchased/delivered. ---- DONE 3-Change fuel filling location from inside hatch to hidden behind license plate, custom make gas cap ---DONE Pictures with wife holding it partially open, and full open, are attached, spring is strong so she had to hold it. Not the best quality but it was night time. Some cosmetic work to be done still and on the original holder holes, i will put rubber stops so the plate doesn't smash into the car when if you let go suddenly.... removed the plate number in paint and put on fictional number..didnt come out too good but better than just the white out plate.....LOL 4-Install sender, Tank, fuel connections from filler to tank and to vent tank, test tank w/fuel and gas gauge ---- To be done
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Just an update: I was able to find a TUBE type fuel level sender: Length: 9 - 1/16 inch Attachment: SAE 5-hole pattern. OHMS: 90-10 Condition: New unit. Type: Tube This should fit the tank just fine since it is 9.5 inches deep, and it is 90-10 ohms just like the original lever type that came with the car, so the OEM gauge should not have any issue with it. When it reaches 90 ohms, I should have roughly over a gallon left as reserve, so based on ~20mpg, this should give me about 15 to 20 miles to find a gas station before it is completely empty as long as I dont stomp on it...Perfect... This is great news for anyone who has an aftermarket fuel tank. By it being a tube type, I am not restricted by the available room for proper lever operation , and also have the opportunity to utilize cell foam in the main chamber to minimize sloshing between the existing baffles due to the protection that the outer tube offers by not letting anything hit or lodge against the interior level indicator components and preventing their operation. Thanks for all your help, it gave me different ideas and i even thought of trying to locate a 10-90 and mounting it on the bottom of the tank, but, thats too risky due to potential leaks...and I was actually contemplating using your example of 0-90 and just reading the gauge backwards or trying to find a gauge that would work with it and look somewhat like the original gauge.. Even a 73-10 was beginning to look like a potential option. But now if everything works as planned, I dont have to do that. This weekend planning on making the fill mod to fill it from behind the license plate and wiggling out any connection issues (vents, hoses, neck attachments, splash neck cup, etc...). If it all works as planned I should have the fuel issue engineered and finalized within a couple of weeks.
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Unfortunately no. The exaust system was revamped previously and goes from the headers into a 2.5 inch pipe, then splits into 2 ea 2" pipes and each goes to the side of the car. the tank is aluminum and from the top looks like a rectangle with the front corners cut off in order to accomodate the side exausts. The top of the tank is flat because the tire well was removed so it fits straight up against the rear deck. For me to go back to the original tank i would have to change all the exausts pipes and provide some type of support for the tank -both new attachment points and a top supGo to this postport sin the tank would no longer be pined up against the spare tire well which does not exist anymore. Sender is to go inside the little hole you see in front of the fill neck.
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My tank leaks. Not sure if i will be able to get it fixed or if i have to have one built. History: current tank is aluminum rectangle type custom with no sending unit. whether i fix or build i want sending unit. but from what i have heard the 1970 240z sending is 90-10 ohms. Problems: 1-Tank does not have sender so hence no sender retainer to attach the retaining ring for use with the original sender. 2-cant find a retainer to weld to the tank so that the original sender can be used. 3-Might not have enough room for fuel sender arm and may have to use vertical; tube or uncovered. 4-all aftermarket ones are 0-90 or 70-10 or some other ohms but none are 90-10 and readily available Questions: 1-Does the gauge for the 240z fuel level need a 90-10? 2-Can i use a 0-90 and what would that do since it is reversed the ranges are different? If anyone has answers I sure would appreciate including possible alternatives or where to obtain a 90-10. I need to find out asap to either repair or order custom tank. THanks.....
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The best seems to be: 225/55/R15. Same height , circumference, revs/mile. -0.5" side wall height 1.18" greater in section width If the rubbing occurs, the difference seems to be very slight that I should be able to roll the wheel well to accomdate the minor difference and/or adjust the car heigh with the Tokiko shocks/coilovers. Suggestions? This seems to be the most extreme look while fitting the space to its normal maximum with some minor changes if needed?
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What is the biggest tire you can put on a 240Z with Panasports 15/7 -0-offset WITHOUT RUBBING? Original OEM were 195/70 Currently I have 195/50/15 ZR and i want to go taller and wider....but dont want to rub.... Thinking of a 215/65x7, would love to go with 225/60/7 Changing rims is not an option. I like these.
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Check post and pictures above for updated info. UPDATE. I have removed pictures and some of the comments/pricing because there have been changes: New items added, items sold, new pictures added, pricing changes. So the latest is this: THe items are currently listed in craigslist under: Copy this and search inside craigslist SF/Bay Area: Datsun 240Z 260Z 280Z 280ZX Used Parts for Sale Lowest prices in town. If the listing is expired, wait a couple of days and it will be back up again updated.
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Check post and pictures above for updated info. UPDATE. I have removed pictures and some of the comments/pricing because there have been changes: New items added, items sold, new pictures added, pricing changes. So the latest is this: THe items are currently listed in craigslist under: HEADING/SEARCH FOR: Datsun 240Z 260Z 280Z 280ZX Used Parts for Sale - $1 (San Jose, CA) Current web address is: https://sfbay.craigslist.org/sby/pts/d/datsun-240z-260z-280z-280zx/6557995055.html Now keep in mind that at the end of the post, if i repost, the web address will change, however you should still be able to find it by using the Heading listed above to search for it. This makes it easier to update and just one site to maintain all the info without having any comments and replies piling up on the link. You best way to contact me at that point will be by utilizing the reply button on the craiglist post since it automatically notifies me. In order to expedite the removal of clutter I have adjusted pricing to be extremely good for any any buyer who is interested in the items. Good luck.
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Auvelas. Sent you PM and an email from my personal email.
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Auvelas. Sent you PM on your proposition.
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Shipping: You contract and pay the shipping company. I can deliver it to a shipping facility of your choosing within and up to 5 miles from San Jose once i receive payment. This way they wont charge you for pick up. No cost on my part to deliver it to your shipping facility. Can only drop it off on Sat/Sundays. Same goes if they pick up. I will only drop it once. If i have to go there more than that, then we may need to discuss it further. Boxing: I can either create a box out of cardboard pieces or pad it in bubble wrap/tape. Your choice. No charge on my part for the bubble wrap/packaging. Make sure you let me know which way because i dont want to deliver something they cant process. I will only deliver it once for free to the shipping company if that is how you decide to do. Let me know if this is fair and agreable. I am trying to give you a fair price and not forcing expensive shipping charges on you.. After all we are all Z owners and should be looking out for each other instead of goldmining fellow Z-owners for needed parts.
