240DL?

If I had seen these a week ago i'de jump on them, but I found a pair in storage. Those are looking nice though!

Added 260-280 tailights

Added some stuff

The switch and thermostat housing are pending sale, everything else is still available.

I have some S30 parts from a parts box that I don't need anymore. 280z alternator(nearly new) - 30$ 280z external voltage regulator (even newer) - 10$ 280z thermostat housing with sensors - 30$ Sold S30 dash clock - 40$ S30 Temp and oil pressure guage - 30$ 280z charcoal canister - 20$ 280z light/turn signal combo switch - 80$ Sold 280z ECU A11-601-000 - 50$ 280z complete injection harness with ECU, AFM and ballast resister, uncut from running car- 200$ 280z 76 vacuum bottle - 20$ 280z Ac bracket w/ pulley - 40$ 280z starter - 50$ 280z 77 distributor - 40$ 280z relay bracket - 20$ 280z taillight set (will be cleaned) - 100$ see anything else in the picture you want let me know Parts located in 95926, Willing to ship for prices above + real shipping price

Ill start pulling injector plugs and see if it smooths out at all.

If I hear them all pulsing (individually) would that rule out stuck open injector? edit - Not mechanically damaged of course but stuck open because of the ECU

I do have the A11 600 000 for federal manual 1976 cars And my injectors are green, so I would guess they are correct

I'm gonna toss in a new set tomorrow, the ones in it are fouled out after the trip down the road. Ill pull them after idling for a bit and take a look. They are NGK BR6ES, on about my 5th set within the 40 miles I've put on the car

It has black soot until it dies from running rich, then wet and smelling of gas

Ill take some pictures of it, and get some part numbers on injectors just to make sure they arnt the turbo ones. I have the PCV system disconnected because of a vacuum leak at the timing cover that I am yet to correct. I have pulled the wire off the plug and thrown another in it to test and it had spark against the valve cover.

With a screw driver yes, they are defiantly pulsing as intended, not sure if its too much just by sound

I believe its correct, Ill have to get a timing light with an RPM readout to make sure. But it doesn't seem like it would be 1.5 times the reading like you mentioned before.

I just popped off the cap and rotor, the air gap seems to be .279mm (within spec), while looking at the FSM I see the 2 pickup type has a phase difference. While checking this I am told to remove the red wire from the "water temperate switch". My thermostat housing doesn't seem to have this Instead it has what I believe to be a colling fan switch from another Datsun?!? Another housing I have in a box might have the right one, but I have no idea where this red wire it should be connected to is... FOUND THE RED WIRE Does the "water temp switch" actually effect timing (1976 federal manual transmission car)

I'm reading the distributor section of the FSM now and will measure the air gap. If I cant find any problems there ill try running it till it dies then swapping ECU's and seeing if it starts again.