240DL?

My apologies for being unclear about the situation, I just got back to the car, I have spent a lot of time on it a while ago but not recently. I will go threw all the continuity and resistance checks here and post all the numbers before guessing again.

I wouldn't think it would be the first or third as it is running rich and blowing black smoke when I get to the limit. Would a 76 have a similar distributor issue? I'm getting plenty hot spark when cracking but haven't tried testing it at higher rpm.

I thought about that once, I check the numbers but had a hard time finding any information. Ill get those numbers again and put them here

I have read over that a few times and tried moving the flap by hand but it doesn't seem to make a difference.

Ill do that tonight then, gonna have to find an analog one.

Sure would be upsetting to find that ground wire to be the issue. One AFM has a ground wire while the other does not? I will try the one with the wire grounded well but I doubt that is the issue as I recall checking that a while ago

The only test I can find for the vain itself is a voltage test. Is it possible to check simply with resistance if it is functioning correctly?

I've got 2 AFM's and 2 ECU's and no combination of those works. My hope is that a known good AFM will solve the issue.

Tps has the cover removed but does work, I have it adjusted correctly and it has passed both tests. I believe the injectors are this set, except for one that was dead when I got it so I replaced it. They all have the correct resistance and don't show a huge difference when I pull and inspect the plugs.

The whipper moves free, if I hold it closed a little it doesn't really get better. The fuel pressure is correct and I have a gauge in place of the cold start valve as I live in a warm climate.

My 1976 280z won't rev past 3500 when not in gear, and about 2000 when in gear. When in neutral it will blow clouds of black smoke at higher rpm. It has run way to rich like this since I bought it. I have checked the wiring and sensors and rectified the issues I found to no avail. The water temp sensor was the first place I looked, I replaced it when I first got the car. It is giving the correct reading all the way to the ECU and has a noticeable effect when I unplug it. My only guess would be a AFM, I have two but don't know the condition of either. They both passed the ohm tests, could there still be an issue with them? If not what else could be causing such a rich condition, especially at higher rpm.