240DL?

If I had seen these a week ago i'de jump on them, but I found a pair in storage. Those are looking nice though!

Added 260-280 tailights

Added some stuff

The switch and thermostat housing are pending sale, everything else is still available.

I have some S30 parts from a parts box that I don't need anymore. 280z alternator(nearly new) - 30$ 280z external voltage regulator (even newer) - 10$ 280z thermostat housing with sensors - 30$ Sold S30 dash clock - 40$ S30 Temp and oil pressure guage - 30$ 280z charcoal canister - 20$ 280z light/turn signal combo switch - 80$ Sold 280z ECU A11-601-000 - 50$ 280z complete injection harness with ECU, AFM and ballast resister, uncut from running car- 200$ 280z 76 vacuum bottle - 20$ 280z Ac bracket w/ pulley - 40$ 280z starter - 50$ 280z 77 distributor - 40$ 280z relay bracket - 20$ 280z taillight set (will be cleaned) - 100$ see anything else in the picture you want let me know Parts located in 95926, Willing to ship for prices above + real shipping price

Ill start pulling injector plugs and see if it smooths out at all.

If I hear them all pulsing (individually) would that rule out stuck open injector? edit - Not mechanically damaged of course but stuck open because of the ECU

I do have the A11 600 000 for federal manual 1976 cars And my injectors are green, so I would guess they are correct

I'm gonna toss in a new set tomorrow, the ones in it are fouled out after the trip down the road. Ill pull them after idling for a bit and take a look. They are NGK BR6ES, on about my 5th set within the 40 miles I've put on the car

It has black soot until it dies from running rich, then wet and smelling of gas

Ill take some pictures of it, and get some part numbers on injectors just to make sure they arnt the turbo ones. I have the PCV system disconnected because of a vacuum leak at the timing cover that I am yet to correct. I have pulled the wire off the plug and thrown another in it to test and it had spark against the valve cover.

With a screw driver yes, they are defiantly pulsing as intended, not sure if its too much just by sound

I believe its correct, Ill have to get a timing light with an RPM readout to make sure. But it doesn't seem like it would be 1.5 times the reading like you mentioned before.

I just popped off the cap and rotor, the air gap seems to be .279mm (within spec), while looking at the FSM I see the 2 pickup type has a phase difference. While checking this I am told to remove the red wire from the "water temperate switch". My thermostat housing doesn't seem to have this Instead it has what I believe to be a colling fan switch from another Datsun?!? Another housing I have in a box might have the right one, but I have no idea where this red wire it should be connected to is... FOUND THE RED WIRE Does the "water temp switch" actually effect timing (1976 federal manual transmission car)

I'm reading the distributor section of the FSM now and will measure the air gap. If I cant find any problems there ill try running it till it dies then swapping ECU's and seeing if it starts again.

It runs way to rich cold or warm, but once I get driving it it fouls the plugs to the point it wont run. I have pulled apart the harness connectors and cleaned them all. If I remove the connection from the CTS it will run much richer and most of the time die. I Replaced the sensor when I first got the car. It reads about 330 ohms at operating temp at the ECU (13-ground)

Ill give that a shot, if I hold the AFM closed a little and rev the car will go to about 4000 with no load. By a little I mean just open enough to run the fuel pump On another note I took the car for a test drive to see if It would pull any higher then before. Within a mile down the road it couldnt pull at all and shut off. Once I pulled it back home I took out a plug and found it covered in gas. Gonna get a new set of plugs for it and try making some artificial vacuum leaks

I didn't state a lot of stuff when I first started asking questions my bad. I got the car "needing a head gasket", it war torn apart when I brought it home. Needless to say it was more then that, so after a head gasket, valve stem seals, trying a whole different head, then rings the blue smoke went away. But there was still black smoke and plugs would still get fouled. I have done a compression test (even across all cylinders), torn the valve cover off to look at timing a bunch of times as I thought that was the issue, it is defiantly on. I have adjusted valves and checked the ignition timing to no effect. I will check ignition timing again but I know everything else mechanically is sound, what makes me think its an EFI issue is how rich it runs. I still will look into the ignition system like you mentioned as there are a lot of old parts that I cant speak for there condition.

The TPS shows no continuity when depressed between pins 2-18. I have tried unplugging it with no effect. Would there be anything else to do to eliminate that as an issue? Last night I tried removing the AFM from the intake and holding it open just enough to run the fuel pump, when doing this it would rev past the 2800-3200 rpm fuel cut spot that makes me think It wouldn't be that. The revolutionary trigger signal has a slight voltage drop from battery voltage(pin 1-ground ignition on), Ill check connections...would this maybe cause an issue? The only part numbers I can tell you off the top of my head is the ECU is a A11 600-000 unit. I bought a A11 601-000 but it doesn't make any difference.

I seem to be doing a slightly different test, I applied 9 volts to 9-6 and measuring it at 8-7 as I opened the flap. Ill give yours a try and see if the voltage goes up instead of down. This screenshot is from the 1976 FSM PDF I downloaded

Yep afm 1 is what I've been using for the most part. Iv put number 2 on a few times but it obviously doesn't run any better with it. And that is with the AFM fully closed

My fuel pressure is 31psi pump running no vacuum, and 29 at idle. The fuel pressure gauge does show an immediate drop in fuel pressure after the pump turns off. I pulled the Fuel pressure regulator vacuum line and ran the pump with no sigh of gas (vapor or liquid) so I pulled the rail. With the pump running no injectors leaked. After crimping the line following the fuel filter on it's way to the rail the pressure holds. My guess would be either a leak before that or the check valve in the (aftermarket) pump installed by the PO. Here are the results of the tests I have done 1. TPS idle (2-18) Throttle released = continuity Throttle depressed = none 2. TPS full throttle (3-18) Throttle released = none Throttle depressed = continuity 3. AFM resistance 1 (6-8) 180 ohms AFM 1 = 183.6 AFM 2 =185.7 4. AFM resistance 2 (7-8) continuity (small resistance) AFM 1 =163.4 AFM 2 =none? 5. AFM resistance 3 (8-9) 100 ohms AFM 1 =102.3 AFM 2 =103.8 6. AFM air temp sensor (6-27) AFM 1 at xf =2940 at about 60f AFM 2 at xf=air temp sensor seems to be damaged 7. AFM fuel pump contacts (10-20) AFM 1 closed=none AFM 1 open =continuity AFM 2 closed=none AFM 2 open =continuity 8. Water temp sensor resistance (13-ground) Cold =2750 ohms Warm = 330 ohms at 170f 9. Fuel pump relay circuit (20-ground) Continuity? = 68 ohms 10. Air regulator and fuel pump circuit (34- ground) Continuity? = 79 ohms 11. Control unit ground (5-ground) Continuity? = continuity 12. Control unit ground 2 (16-ground) Continuity? = continuity 13. Control unit ground 3 (17-ground) Continuity? = continuity 14. Control unit ground 4 (35-ground) Continuity? = continuity 15. Ignition coil trigger input signal (1-ground) ignition on Battery Voltage? = 12.23/12.35 slight drop 16. Control unit power input circuit (10-ground) ignition on Battery Voltage? =yes 17. Injector 4 (14-ground) ignition on Battery Voltage? =yes 18. Injector 1 (15-ground) ignition on Battery Voltage? =yes 19. Injector 5 (30-ground) ignition on Battery Voltage? =yes 20. Injector 6 (31-ground) ignition on Battery Voltage? =yes 21. Injector 3 (32-ground) ignition on Battery Voltage? =yes 22. Injector 2 (33-ground) ignition on Battery Voltage? =yes 23. Start signal (4- ground) key to start Battery Voltage? =yes

Does the voltage go up as you open the flap more? I am starting off with 4 then going down to very little...

I actually have a fuel pressure gauge in place of the CSV because of how warm it is here. Assuming pins 9-6 and 7-8 should have the same voltage I believe the AFM is the issue. If anyone can confirm that Ill go grab another one (and test of before I buy)

I am currently voltage testing the potentiometer on both of my AFM's. The vane on number one drops as in the video, but the voltage starts at nearly half of the input. Does this sound right? I connected a 9 volt battery to pin 9 and pin 6 of the AFM, connected a voltage meter inside the case to pins 8 and 7. Pins 9-6 input 8.75 volts but 8-7 reads 4.5 volts when all the way closed. As I move the flap it drops as described. Should the voltage at pins 8-7 with the AFM closed be the same as the input of 9-6? The resistance at 8-7 on the AFM shows a resistance of 163 ohms? I'm reading now this should be near continuity