Tirnipgreen

View Advert 240-Z Headers New Pacesetter Headers and Y-Pipe for the 240-Z...not sure if they will fit the L-28, but there is a hole for the O2 sensor, so I would think so. Those who know more about this, feel free to write. I was thinking $225.00 for the set. Thanks...Ryals in North Georgia Advertiser Tirnipgreen Date 03/28/2019 Price $225.00 Category Parts for Sale

Thanks for the pic, Wilkes. I like the reverse elbow mod.

I would never delete all of the vents. I will leave the big one that is connected to the filler neck. But the two small ones go nowhere with the elimination of the evap tank...which is EPA nonsense. If anyone ever wanted to put it all back, they will have the parts to do so...along with the flat top carbs.

Carl...Thanks...! I am going to eliminate the vents all together when I have a shop clean the tank. I was thinking of having the outside waterjet blasted and powdercoated. Any thoughts...? Thanks again...Ryals 1973 240-Z 115 Blue / White interior

Thanks to both of you for chiming in. I am a Triumph guy venturing in to new territory with this Z project. EPA BS killed British Leyland as things got so complicated fuel system-wise. I am very familiar with SU's from my TR world, I bought a bunch of Z parts and a new set of Webers was included in the lot. I have round tops to fall back on...just wanted to see what the downdrafts would do. The tank issues with respect to venting are the big thing for me. Seems like the time to eliminate what I can as no EPA numb-nut is going to be knocking at my door asking to inspect the car. And if that expansion tank can be eliminated, I will put it on the shelf with the flat tops...! I am really enjoying working on the 240...a little tired of the same old British rut. Although I will never sell my TR4...!

I have a 73 240-Z. Restoration getting out of hand, but I shall see it through. We dropped the gas tank and have the interior panels out. I am wondering what items can be eliminated completely or closed off with plugs, etc. There is a tank in the cargo area on the right side that is probably useless...maybe some of the gas tank fittings as well. I am running earlier SU carbs but have a new set of Weber downdraft carbs to install if they are a better bet. All comments appreciated...Ryals in north Georgia

I have a 73 240-Z. Restoration getting out of hand, but I shall see it through. We dropped the gas tank and have the interior panels out. I am wondering what items can be eliminated completely or closed off with plugs, etc. There is a tank in the cargo area on the right side that is probably useless...maybe some of the gas tank fittings as well. I am running earlier SU carbs but have a new set of Weber downdraft carbs to install if they are a better bet. All comments appreciated...Ryals in north Georgia

Does anyone know where I can get a NEW front bumper without the license plate tabs...? (turns out the bumper I have IS for a 1973 with the holes for the overrider bumper guards) I am definitely going with the early style bumper, but would like to find one without the tabs... pre-chroming.

Zed...I feel like if I tighten this down the ball joint casting will crack. I can hear the powder coating cracking on the control arm as I tighten the two smaller bolts. The casting seems to be a bit too large or tapered for the large hole...maybe too much powder coat...? I don't want to bend the control arm when I tighten the larger through bolts with the tension arm on top of the ball joint flange...Just nervous, that's all...! Thanks...Ryals

I love to see a really good picture of how it all looks when correctly assembled....PLEASE...!

Thanks Sheen...But they dont sit nice and flat. Not sure of they tare just bad castings, but they fit perfect from underneath.

OK...If anyone is still with me on this topic. Does the ball joint go on TOP of the control arm or is it installed from underneath...? The ball joints I bought (MevoTech) fit nicely from underneath...meaning nice and flat and even. When I set the domed cup of the grease fitting through the big hole in the control arm, it does not fit flat. I cannot find a good picture of this in the factory manual...HELP...!

#16 looks like a washer on the Nyloc nut side of the crossmember, so I would think there would be one under the head of the bolt as well. I took this apart 6 months ago...kinda foggy, should've taken pictures...Thanks...!

I am in the process of re-assembling the front suspension on my 1973 240z. I am wondering if there are large washers on the outboard sides of the crossmember that the large bolt goes through before and after the bolt goes through the crossmember for the lower control arm bushings. I don't recall there being one under the head of the bolt and under the nyloc nut, but it seems as though there could have been...Thanks for the help, Ryals

Hello out there... I am re-installing my front suspension after a long floor pan (and lots of other rusted metal) replacement. Should I use STAINLESS nuts, bots, washers for any and all areas where needed...? I love stainless, but not sure if Grade 8 would be a requirement for suspension components. Any comments would be appreciated. Thanks...Ryals

That's the way I want it to be done. I am stripping the interior and all of the riveted patches that the original owner's husband painstakingly installed over the years. They really were well done, but it is time to fix it right. I am wondering why Zedd Findings doesn't make the front "wedge" that gets welded to the long, hat channel support rail. I guess I will have to source the pieces from two vendors - Zedd and Bad Dog....any other suggestions...? Thanks, Ryals

Do the seat supports have to be removed in order to replace the floor pans and frame rails...?

OK....not sure if this will get back to anyone or not, but I had the tank cleaned, sealed and painted. The smaller vent on the top of the tank broke off when I lowered the tank so I had the shop cut it out and weld in a plate. Did I do something bad...? Should I plug the vent line that was attached to that tube before reinstalling the tank...? Should I take the tank back and have them add the tube that I had them remove...? I'd love to get this thing back together today to see if my fuel issue is now solved...Ryals

Does anyone know what is needed to convert the front bumper of my 73 to the older style (non-extended) bumper...? I have the bumper...but not the brackets. JDM says their brackets are for 1974 and newer...any help would be appreciated. Ryals in north Georgia

I was going to connect the one on top and close all the rest. But is there any reason to keep them open...?

Hello....I have the gas tank out and am sending it out to be cleaned, sealed and painted. Do I want to have some of the vents brazed shut...? If so, which ones...? Thanks...Riley

There was an electric pump fitted by the dealer after the car was purchased...I have the receipt. I installed a new mechanical pump on the head. The old electric pump was by-passed years ago...maybe I should bring it back into operation...? I like that it had another filter incorporated in the bottom sector of it. Before I do any bodywork to this Z I want to get it running right and reliable...and driving right with full suspension rebuild. Where can I get new springs...?

Gainesville is 1 hour. 60 north to 136 to 183 to 52 west to Cartecay. The car will be a good one...just gotta work the bugs out. Thanks for the help...everyone. Ryals

I may need to drop the tank and clean it out with nuts and bolts and alot of shaking. I have heard the filler neck can be difficult to disconnect and the RECONNECT.