Darrel

shox.com

I get the EFI fuel line Napa sells and never had a problem Rated for high pressure 5/16". I dip the hose ends in gas for lube. For the residual fuel pressure, the factory manual shows to disconnect the fuel pump connector under the carpet and pad in the hatch floor. Run car until it stalls, then try to start it a couple time to clear the pressure. Then use a rag to catch any drips. If you were to replace the injector hoses, follow the manual and use a soldering iron to cut the old hoses off without cutting the retaining ring, no clamp necessary at the base of the injector. Twist on the new hose while pushing till it bottoms out. Make sure the hose is cut square going into the injector. Cut the hose to length after installing on the injector.

The z fuse box uses rivets in the back of the fuse block. Corrosion will start there as well. It's not the fuse to fuse holder that causes the problem.

Motorsport auto www.zcarparts.com

ft wayne? FT WAYNE?? There aren't enough twisty roads in ft wayne!!!. But yeah, the indy club would be the best place to look for z's. Looking at the "similar threads" below it looks like the last thread was back in '06. Try contacting that poster. I was born in ft wayne and have a lot of cousins, aunts and uncles, but none that are car enthusiasts.

I can only speak for my experience with my '82zx turbo. I went with napa new injectors for turbo. It ran very lean. Then i went with new nissan injectors. It ran perfectly using new nissan injectors. Obviously YMMV.

I don't believe the injector connectors are plug and play for the 280z, zx or turbo. You will have to do some splicing. You are still using connectors that have the little wire you have to dig out in order to remove them. Just go to the JY and pull some newer ones with the quick release with newer boots and sealed connectors. Hondas, saab, volvo, most should have the right connector. I used a 7 pin connector for the AFM on my zxt from a saab which was used on their ABS. Great boot and works perfect.

Buy a lot of turtle necks. :-D

I checked out the car show web site. It looks like they had a couple of 510's and what looked like "the" mx-520 last year. From what i have heard that is a real monster. I still have to meet Bob.

This along with the headlight harness and for the modern blade fuses get the msa fuse block. As Dave has explained in previous threads all the current to run the PL and HL run through the fuse block and the combination switch. If you take the clam shell off the steering column you will see the white and red wire deformed from all the resistance. The msa fuse block will curtail much of the resistance, but you still have the power to the HL and PL running through the combo switch.

Definitely worth it to get 5 yr plates if you know you will be keeping the car longer than 5 yrs. You will save on the R&B TAX. You only have to pay that once at every renewal instead of paying it 5 times if you keep the yearly plates. No need to go back, just get the collector plates the next time you renew. Rich, your registration included a $100 penalty($25/month, max $100) for letting the tags lapse. If you were fortunate enough to have something newer than '75 and got collector plates before the R&B tax took effect, don't let your tags expire. And with the 5 yr plates you only have to do the emission test once, if you live in an area that requires emissions.

Come to the next Z club meeting so you can announce it to the members. If you are a z club member you can put it out on the mailing list. The next meeting is this wednesday the 2nd at the New York Deli News on East Hampden just east of Monaco. PM me for any info you would like regarding the ZCCC. **edit** OK, you know about the z club and have been on the poker run and I have probably spoke to you.

I'm with pop's z. That is anything '75 and older when you get collector plates. We used to have a 25 yr rolling exemption till we passed the roads and bridges TAX in '09. The good thing, anything 25 yrs and older were grandfathered in for the collector plates as long as you kept them current or sold the car.Now you can get the collector plates for '75 and older. Registration fees start to decline until the cars are 10 yrs old. The they are at their lowest at about $70, This includes the $40 R&B TAX. emissions testing yearly for '76 to '81, '82 and newer get tested every 2 yrs.

The ZCCC will have two track events again this year at our home track, High Plains Raceway. The first will be held July 7th. And the second will be held September 8th. More info will be posted on the zccc web site. There are also more clubs having track events. They are part of the Multi-Car Clubs Alliance of which the z club is a part of. ZCCC, audi, lotus, mercedes, viper, alfa, ceca/shelby and bmw. Each club have their own rules and requirements. Check the dates on the HPR calendar and pick out a date you might be interested in and contact their club for more info. www.zccc.org www.highplainsraceway.com

Why don't you test your old one? It's all in the factory service manual and can be diagnosed with a multimeter. go to the zenon web site for manual downloads and the efi bible.

Old head bolts will work as well. Ask pop's Z or kenz240z.

That is the fuse for the a/c according to the factory service manual.

That is a bench top model. You need a floor model.

When it's time to put them back in, make sure they will go in with only hand pressure like they show in the service manual. If you feel where the lock pin fits in the spindle pin, make sure you file down any bumps the lock pins may have made when the factory installed them.

www.ratsun.net

The pads are still clean so they are doing their job.

I made a few of the tools. A couple of members here I sold to. Seppy72(?) and Marty Rogen. The materials I made them with are pretty much off the shelf parts. metric all-thread 12m x1.25 1 metric nut 2 mag wheel lugnuts with open end 12m x1.25 napa pipe thrust bearing The shank of the lugnut will fit into the thrust bearing, the thrust bearing will ride on the end of the pipe. I used a few other things like a bronze bushing and washers, but not needed when using the thrust bearing. http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c301/dlh2460/spindle%20pin%20tool/spindlepintool001.jpg

September 10th is less than a week away. We have 31 registered so far with plenty of room for more cars. If interested, do not mail your registrations in, bring them to the track with you and register then. Get there early so we can begin the drivers meeting on time and not miss track time. Get there by 7am on the tenth.

So your definition of over heating the motor is smoke coming off the outside of the motor after cleaning it and not by gauge reading or boiling water/af coming out of the radiator?

Based on other threads and my observations, he does not stock any parts at all. Including used. If he see's that someone is looking for a part, he will commit to the buyer without having the part in hand. Sometimes it works, sometimes he can't secure the part after committing. Maybe he has changed his business practices.