Darrel

I wonder what the '66 2 door pontiac that he traded in for $600 was? found it. 66 GTO for $600 TRADE IN. http://www.yearone.com/updatedsinglepages/Id_info/gto/vingto.asp

continuous high voltage will also overcharge the battery and run it dry if a wet cell. Check voltage at idle and at high rpm.

250K it is just getting broken in.

Hagerty, grundy's and american collector. There are a lot of others, but those seem to be the most used. Grundy's has unlimited miles, but obviously those miles can't be used for a daily driver.

At this point it's an open canvas. You can make it how you want ti.

What do you expect from free z?

Everyone will have differences of opinion. But this is bringing an argument between two differences of opinion and taking away from the thread. Fast woman is smart enough to go the best route for her with all the info already given out. Maybe take it to PM's so this thread can get cleaned up?

You say no rust, how about bondo or any other sign of previous body work? It looks like it has a new paint job. After finding suspect areas by tapping lightly with finger tips, use a fridge sheet magnet to confirm any possible bondo'd areas. Safety first brakes- brake hoses, etc get it running replace all hoses if they haven't been already- radiator, heater, fuel, expansion tank all fuel filters- carbs, engine bay, filter inside of electric pump by gas tank. window- get it fixed before it gets worse, go through the other and grease it up before it starts giving you trouble. window chrome- possibly the rubber is rotted and hard(windshield and back window) suspension- bushings and shocks, unless the bushings are noticeably bad, hold off until you have a solid daily driver. Then do the struts and bushings together. carbs- are they the stock carbs for the '73? Either way, if it runs well leave them alone. No reason to replace. door latch-- handle or latch? Handle you can get a new or used, classifieds, etc. Parts-- You would be surprised what the dealer still has in stock. MSA has nissan parts, but their prices are a little inflated, Courtesy Nissan in Texas can get you most parts. Ebay also like MSA, inflated pars prices. Research before buying from anywhere. Tach-- Mine does the same thing. Sometime I can pound on the dash and it will start working. I will replace with a used tach, if that doesn't work I will find a early 280z tach, supposed to work better with the electronic dizzy i have. But that is not what the problem with the tach, possibly an internal short.

You can't tell just by the pic that the cam is worn. A valve adjustment can do wonders in the way a car runs. why i think it has been opened up--- an e31 head had an externally oiled cam. The cam on that head is internally oiled and uses the cam towers from an internally oiled cam. If the valve adjustment doesn't work, then I would check to make sure the timing gear, chain, oil pump and distributor are correctly aligned. transmission-- Have you run the gear shift through all the gears? There should be 6 gates for a 5 speed(1-5 and reverse), and 4 for 4 speed(1-4 and reverse) Just because the engine is a 70's model doesn't mean it automatically needs rebuilt. I have torn down at least 3 engines and after looking at them there was no reason they needed rebuilt. I wish I would have had more faith in the nissan motors. I could have saved a lot of money.

What head is that? btw, the engine has already been opened, at the very least the head has been off. Why would you want to rebuild it?

Rebuild the old one. http://www.dalemfg.com/harmonicbalancer_018.htm

Have you bought one of the Ron Tyler mounts? If not, it is good insurance to keep the new mount from failing.

Larry, it will fit. Alex has the hard lines as well. Mike, you can leave a message at the shop to let them know someone is interested in the tranny and any other parts that came off.(flex plate, bolts, hard lines, shift plate) I sent Mike a google earth street shot of the kurland building,, at least the closest address. The building next door has "studebaker" on it. http://maps.google.com/maps?hl=en&ll=39.734674,-104.987347&spn=0.000502,0.000776&t=h&z=20&layer=c&cbll=39.734782,-104.987398&panoid=Ft1L2VE9lhG0fOdPolneCQ&cbp=12,82.51,,1,0

Mike could use some help on a couple of issues. I gave him a shift lever for a s30 5 speed with the bronze bushings installed. Right now it has the zx shift lever installed, it's a little too short but still works. He is using the white spdo cog that came with the late 5 speed along with it's carrier. I sent the carrier that came out of the auto with the black cog. He could either make another notch on the carrier and put it in the 5 spd or swap out the cogs between the carriers. Those are the only two issues I know of that I wished would have been done while it was still here. Alex from A&M Automotive in Boulder is a good guy. He is also into 510's.

Glad you made it back ok Mike. Did you stop at the Mammoth site? I have never driven a z car that didn't have any creaks or rattles. And I can verify that you don't need a matchbook to keep the 8 track playing. I forgot how good Johnny Cash can sound on an 8 track. I didn't get a chance to sample the cap'tn and Teniele. BTW, it's the auto shift assembly that is left in Boulder along with the transmission. The console was re-used. But back to the car, it is a true time capsule. The paint job isn't too bad considering it's a mask job. It's still good for a car show and the lack of wear on the car at all will show that.

I sanded/beveled them down the first time too. Then i read in one of the forums about spreading the control arm out, using either a long bolt, all thread and a couple of washers, then thought about the scissors jack. Make sure to take out the bushings first so the jack is against metal, measure first, then spread it an 1/8" or a little more.

Get your scissor jack and spread the arms about an 1/8" or a little more. They will spring back but should be enough to slide the arm over the strut housing.

You can probably drill them out to an 1/8"

dry ice for inside the car. Who knows, maybe dry ice would work for the underside too going from the top.

I was wondering when you were going to work on the 240. Going to drive on the track on september 10th?

I wouldn't recommend sand blasting the half shafts with them being fully disassembled. The media will get into everything even if you think it is sealed.

Please keep us up to date with pics showing what the fitment problems are.

41 registered.

I think the bearings they are talking about are the ones that fit in the sliding portion of the half shafts.

So far we have 36 registrations, this is the most I have seen a week before the event. Our limit if 50, but we probably won't turn anyone if we go a few over. According to some sources, we may have enough registered to already pay for the track, so there are more than 36. Bring your check and registration to the track with you and enjoy a lot of track time.