Darrel

They are the correct stub axles for an s30 or s130. Or take them out and they are ready for the tripod axle from a turbo/2+2 s130. Just need to crack the cover to make sure it is a clutch type lsd.

I have 215/45/16(falken rt-615) on my 240. I didn't want to go bigger because of all the people rolling their lip with the 225/50/16. The fender lips are still perfect so i didn't want to roll them.

Looks like you have a rat problem in the garage.

Drain the gas. Replace the oring as stated above. Then check, because sometimes it may be the sending unit itself that is leaking.

brass or oil impregnated bronze. My money would be on the bronze. It's not about the price either. Less than $6 compared to $13+. At least you have the options in this thread with pics.

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c301/dlh2460/transmissions/shifterbushings38374text.jpg

chrysler door hinge bushings, help me part number 38377 comes with 2 bushings or there is another help me part that has a selection of bushings 2 sets of which will work. It won't cost you more than $6 at most. Blue has instructions on his site. You will only have to file on the flats to fit the shifter between the ears. Use lube when fitting the bushings, and use the shifter pin to form the bushings to the pin using a vice. * other part number with a selection of bushings--38374 ** These should work as they are the same dimensions as the 2nd set of bushings that are in the 38374 package. And they come in a package of 15. But I would check to make sure by using the set in the 38374 package before springing for a package of 15.http://www.toolrage.com/prodview.asp?sku=WEF-2283

kenz240z probably has some suggestions. He has a very nice shop, although he should have built it bigger. ;-) Definitely check on height restrictions. A second level for parts storage is really nice, along with bathroom, break room, r&d room.

On a flat tow, strapping the steering wheel would be a bad idea. The front wheels need to turn. Keep the wheel unlocked.

Your 30 mins are up.

Time to start to diagnose this checking easy things first without throwing any money into it. Kenny and I have been through this. Replace the filter up front. Bring a floor jack and tools to unhook the fuel line by the tank, along with an air tank and blow nozzle if you have one. Go out for a spirited drive so that the car will die out. Pull over, raise the car up enough that you can blow through the fuel hose(TAKE THE GAS CAP OFF FIRST). This will clear any debris away from the fuel pick up line inside the tank. Put it back together then go for a drive again. Then see how long it takes to bog down again. If it bogs down again, repeat. This will tell you what is going on before having to drop the tank. This is that I did on my '73 with round tops that had sat for 14 yrs before I bought it. I put a 2.8 engine in, kept the electric pump, put a filter before the electric pump until I get the hoses for the tank and drop it to clean it out properly. My tank had a lot of varnish inside from sitting 14 yrs. While on the road course, it would constantly clog the fuel pick up after sloshing around and loosening up the debris. I still use the electric pump, especially at the track as the mechanical pump isn't enough for track driving with a 2.8.

They are both for the injection seat option. The wires for the power and the knob for the pressure depending on the weight of the passenger. Or what sblake01 said.

Was it doing the same thing with the electric pump installed?

Yes, the plastic button goes in a hole on the brake pedal and contacts the brake light switch. You can get a nut and bolt from the hardware store to replace the plastic plug.

parts store and harbor freight are just a couple of places that sell heat shrink tubing. slip on before connecting the wires, solder, then move the tubing over the area, then use a lighter or heat gun to shrink the tubing.

Here's a set with the correct(?) linkage and the joint Bruce is talking about. http://www.zcar.com/custom/images/phorum/7545_SuCarbuerator001.jpg

sounds like a small gathering is possible this weekend. ken, mike, harry, ncolz(glen), me, and anyone else wants to make it. Who wants to host? ;-) BYOZ. The motor brackets look to be on the correct side.

280z springs on 240z should lower it, at least according to a grass roots z racer told me. I just took his word for it.

parts car.

audi's, volvo's, honda's etc. Go to the junkyard with one of the old injectors plugs with you. btw, most of them are also weatherpac.

'57 cj5-dd-gone '75 el camino-dd-gone '83 celica gt liftback-dd-gone '64 cj5-toy-gone '89 accord-dd-gone '82 zx turbo-toy '97 altima-dd '73 240z-toy '78 620-parts hauler

Narrow down where the noise is coming from. Unhook the half shafts to check the rear wheel bearings, if those are good, then unhook the driveshaft. Have you checked all the fluids? Is it a manual transmission or automatic? 21k original miles? We need pics. ;-) And download the factory service manual from zenon.

Makes you glad you have the restraints you have now. http://vimeo.com/20247765

Hello to an old thread from 2005!!! Maybe the mods could put a lock on threads that are 2 yrs old and over?

Shouldn't this be in the funny forum?