Darrel
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Everything posted by Darrel
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How do you know it's not a right control arm you need and all they're stocking is the left?
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powder coat? body color, black or the grey. They will sand blast it so the chrome will need to be masked off, then masked again with hi temp tape, something the powder coating will need to be aware of.
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Getting the dashes rebuilt is better in the long run. Newer materials that aren't as prone to the elements and temp ranges. If you found stock crack free replacement, you will still have to deal with a 30+ year old dash and it will crack, not if, but when. $850-1200 isn't that bad a price to pay for an uncracked dash that will last longer than the car. As stated above even the dash caps will warp when left out in the heat.
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anyone from ventura county/santa barbara area?
Darrel replied to MarkS30's topic in Open Discussions
kenz240z has clear pics up in the rt mount thread. It was a little tight but he was able to persuade it in place. -
Keep in mind if the last few finally do commit to paying, roostmonkey on hybridz has his last batch ready to ship. It just won't have the notch for the brake and fuel lines, but still works well. I just got back from Kenny's place we helped each other install his rt mount and weld my muffler back on the DD. Kenny took nice clear shots of the bump stop install with the RT mount. Thanks Kenny! Look in the "vendor" forum on hybridz.org
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I still use both pumps in the '73 with round tops and a 2.8 engine. The only time I had trouble with it was when the electric pump got unhooked while out on the track, then it had trouble with fuel starvation. Maybe the mech pump had trouble pulling fuel through the electric pump. So I still use both pumps so I won't have any trouble on the street or the track.
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yeah, I don't use the smilies too much and it gets lost in translation. When I found my '73 the guy said it was a parts car, probably he was influenced by the first guy to come looking at it. The first guy thought about it too much. I went over and checked it out and made the deal. I didn't care if it ran or not, it was the condition of the body that I was interested in. Those in the rust belt would have paid $2k, I paid $500. I have been getting parts slowly for my stroker build. 9mm rods from the 2.4, diesel crank, heads, blocks etc, you name it. I did refresh a '75 2.8 to have fun while collecting other parts. Kenz240z is storing a '82zx engine for me while I get my chit together. It will be a step up from the refreshed engine. Eventually I will go megasquirt with su adapted throttle body injection.
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What is the wagon in the back ground of the fourth pic?
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Are you sure it's not a specimen cup? Really nice looking car you have.
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take it to a locksmith, have him pick it then make a key.
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What's with the rip off? The prices were clearly marked, you knew you were paying that going in. Homework is the first thing anyone should do before shelling out that much coin for wire holders or anything. I don't condone that kind of mark up, that's why you have to do your own research. Courtesy still has a lot of parts for our cars, that is always the first place I go if I need genuine nissan parts. MSA and Black dragon second.
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http://www.arizonazcar.com/ is one place. You'll need a drool rag while browsing that site.
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What size Thread/Diameter for Engine Stand mounting? - F54
Darrel replied to KDMatt's topic in Engine & Drivetrain
If you want to match the bolts, take one out of your 280z, they are easy enough to get to from the top. -
the one I used isn't from the suspension, I bought those and they fit perfect. but the hole in the thrust bearing from the suspension is more than big enough, you will probably have to get a bigger washer.
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Use a nissan lugnut, then weld onto the sae allthread. If you have a thrust bearing from the front suspension, use that between the pipe and pulling nut. It will keep the friction down. http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c301/dlh2460/spindle%20pin%20tool/spindlepintool002.jpg The things you won't need in this pic is the big 3/8" thick spacer I made, and the bronze flange bushing.
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try and find a place local that sells the metric threaded rod. If they have it you will probably have to buy a meter long piece.
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12x1.25, same as the lugnuts.
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Don't automatically think both or one as parts cars. But then of course the previous owner of my '73 considered it a parts car, that's why I got it for $500. All of the floor pan rust can be patched with scrap metal as I noted in an earlier post. Post pics of the other one. They both may be worth saving.
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Does not get my sense of humor. :-D But then not everyone does. ;-)
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bunch of damn vultures.
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*burp* thanks kenny. :-D
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For patch metal, check your yellow pages for commercial door shops. They will have cutouts from flush panel doors that you can use for patches. 24 x 30 cutouts etc. Most will be 18 gauge metal. More than likely they will give it to you free.
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she have a sister?
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I thought I would put this out there about finding the bump stops. Advance Auto Parts-- energy suspension $12.99 per pair Checker- #11.99/pair When you go to your local auto parts store, check the "Performance" section of the store. If they have them they will be near the sway bar links and ES transmission mounts. As far as price, You can go to ES suppliers and get them cheaper, but add to that shipping and handling it will be over the local parts store prices.
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As far as heating your work space, radiants are good for heat, but if you're right in front of it it can get too hot. They will warm you and not the air around you. You could probably get one of those bullet heaters from a pawn shop and run it sporadically to keep the chill out. This is what I do when I work on my car in my brother's garage. As always with gas/kerosine fired heaters be careful of CO and keep it ventilated.