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Darrel

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Everything posted by Darrel

  1. pre made bracket. The only thing that would make it better would be tek screws(self drilling/self tapping).
  2. I have the gas tank painted and about ready to go back in. I just need to solder the copper U for the top vent. I picked up fuel hoses for the tank and engine bay. Next thing to do is rebuild the 4 screw su's and an earlier balance tube. I have and do something with all the extra water hoses and pipes in the engine bay.
  3. check the wiring at the head temp sensor, if it has the head temp sensor. between 5 and 6 spark plug on the head.
  4. my '82 turbo blocks would leak when cracked. Not sure if it's a problem with non turbo. Make sure you don't over tighten the new ones when you replace them.
  5. That sounds like what happened to me after i rebuilt the rear wheel cylinders. So I had a dry rear system. I started on the LR. I barely got anything to flow. It would seem the master would slowly refill back up when I let off the pedal. After about an hour I decided to try the LR and it bled normally. Then went back to RR and it bled normally. This is what I used. Longer clear hose than what is shown and placed on a bench beside the wheel I was working on. I could watch it while in the car when pumping the brakes. I do have one of the air assist brake bleeders, but only bought it to get the self filling reservoir.
  6. expansion tank delete. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/tech-pubs-howto/19034-treating-inside-outside-gas-tank-por15-products-removing-evaporation-tank.html
  7. Less hoses to deal with. and as long as the remaining hoses are routed right there is no reason for the expansion tank. It's mainly for emissions and vapor recovery. Some 240z didn't even have the tank. On another note, I got a hold of the first owner of the car. He lives in Oregon and still thinks about it occasionally. He only had it a year and traded it in for a couple of smaller cars for a growing family. I got his name from the warrantee booklet and the white pages showed he lived in the area in cali where it was bought.
  8. Most places also have it on the title, mileage has exceeded mechanical limits of spdo(5 place odo), or something like that. It really doesn't matter any more as these cars get older.
  9. ball is in your court. Make your offer, he will either accept, decline or give you another number.
  10. This is what I use when bleeding brakes. I keep it above the corner I'm working on so the air goes up. When disconnecting it, put it on the ground and close the bleeder.
  11. I forgot to post pics of when I first picked up the car. An update. Yesterday I took off the flat top carbs, all rubber hoses for the fuel lines, a/c compressor and sprayed brake cleaner through all the hard fuel lines. No gunk came out and it was all clean. I ordered a new fuel sending unit which should get here next week then i will reinstall the tank. I may delete the expansion tank so there are less hoses to worry about.
  12. email sent. I have a 7/8" hone if you need it. If you rebuild the calipers, make sure the kit comes with two small o-rings. The pic shows it comes with two, but when you get it only one is in the package. I would only mess with the cylinders and calipers if they are leaking. If they aren't just replace pads and or shoes.
  13. Back to the brakes. When i was bleeding the brakes today I was a little concerned. Starting with the LR first, I just didn't have the pedal feel I was expecting, it would get soft, then hard, let off of it then it would push all the way down. When sitting, it seemed like the reservoir would fill back up through the system. Got tired of that so i switched to the RR, bleeding it felt normal and pulled clean fluid through, then went back to the LR and it was normal brake bleeding procedure. It was really weird. I was concerned with the rebuilt cylinders since I had never done those before. No leaks and the pedal is firm.
  14. Cleaned the brake and clutch reservoirs and cleaned out the nasty old brake fluid in them. Bled the rear brakes starting with the LR. It didn't seem to be working correctly. The lines were probably all dry from sitting when I took out the rear brake cylinders. After trying to bleed the LR and getting some progress, I went to the RR and bled it. Had no trouble bleeding it and got clean fluid flowing. Went back to the LR and didn't have any problems bleeding it. It was a little weird how it worked. The fronts bled nicely as well as the clutch master and slave. Have a firm pedal for the brakes and clutch. No leaks detected when I finished for the day.
  15. Nothing too much to report on and no pics. Picked up the tank from the rad shop yesterday. Bought new brake shoes for the rear and rebuilt the brake cylinders. I have the back brakes on using the old shoes to make sure the rebuild kits work, no use using new shoes if they fail right away. Ran out of brake cleaner, will get some tomorrow and go back to clean the brake master reservoirs and bleed brakes.
  16. One tip I have seen. Jack up the back end and put on stands. The engine and trans won't have to be at too much of wan angle to get out together.
  17. Bonzi, keep the dates open, June 28th and September 28th. ZCCC has High Plains Raceway those two dates. I am sure your grandkids would love to see you too. ;-) I can't say I am surprised to find more rust than what I first reported. I think a patch will work in the area.
  18. And now on to the gas tank pics. What is left of 28 yr old gas. After a trip to the car wash. I must say the difference between the tanks that was nearly empty when parked(my white '73) and this one which may have been full, my white one was in much better shape. It looked like what the bottom looks like on this one all over inside.
  19. I guess I should use more smilies when I post. My humor doesn't show up well in type. ;-) Even if I noticed these spots before it wouldn't have changed my opinion about the car. Rust is very minimal. But between the two, my white one and this one, my white one has less rust in the floor board, this just looks a whole lot nicer overall. ;-)
  20. Here are some close ups of the two more spots of rust. In this pic, the larger of the two, you can barely make out the other area. look closely at two white spots in the back ground on the other side of the plug. And here are the two white spots up close(spider egg sacks) Both of these are under the passenger seat. I will post pics of the fuel tank tomorrow when I take pics of the inside. Here is a pic of the electric fuel pump installed by previous owner(terry) with the help from his mechanic friends. Note, they did not use the factory harness which included wiring for an electric fuel pump. This car had a manufacturer date of 9/72.
  21. well, it's confirmed, this car I bought is a rust bucket. I put it up on jack stands, dropped the tank and took off the rear brake cylinders for a rebuild. That's when I noticed it. It was in the pics all the time, one I don't think I posted here. You can see it on the left side of this pic in front of the smaller drain plug. ok, I guess I did post the pic before.
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