Darrel
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Everything posted by Darrel
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pull n save had $30 transmissions a couple weeks ago. I couldn't pass that up, I would have bought 2 but I let a friend know and he got the other. I'm not worried about replacing bearings if needed. They are pretty easy to work on with the right service manual and common sense. For the late 5 spd you can modify it for an actual short throw shifter. Then cut, drill and tap for a stud in a 4 spd shifter. This mod shortens the actual throw on a stock length shfiter from 5.5" to 3" 1-2 shift.
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I agree with attacking it from the front. There is a chance that the hood latch bracket on the firewall was bent down causing the lathc to bind. I was able to loosen the hinge bolts and the hood popped up.
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You will also need the front differential cross member and the rear curved cross member from a 280z if your '72 doesn't have it. Get the half shafts as well.
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rear outer bearing #nsk B31z-16C4 rear inner bearing # nachi RLS10 T C4 These were probably replaced at one time. You should be able to go to any bearing place and they can match them up. As far as brands, let others chime in.
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All I did was take the pics. Check out the colorado wyoming roadster owners site. I don't know who wrote up the plaques. I'm sure you could probably ask them and correct them like it seems you are itching to do. ;-) I will have to admit, I took liberties with the 2+2 , 2+1 designations. http://www.wycroc.org/
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Had a z club drive to a museum featuring datsun cars for the winter. Here are a few pics, I'll link them since they are so big. 1st roadster ( some people need to use more sunscreen ;-) ) writeup on 1st roadster Try glancing at the name of the city and say it without thinking. 1st roadster 2+2 2+1 2+1 writeup some of the cars that made the trip 2000 nice paint
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very common bearing, # 6302 and easy replacement with vice, sockets etc.
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early 5 spd ears, lower than the late 5 spd. same pivot location -
Note the pivot is drilled higher than on a 81-83 zx 5 spd transmission. -
Note the pivot is drilled lower on a 5 spd transmission than on a 4 spd transmission -
'78 5 spd shifter on the left, 77 4 spd shifter on right. -
If you take the plastic bushings and flip around you can use it for a 4 spd configuration or 5 spd configuration. The difference is 7mm between 4 spd and 5 spd configuration. -
from jmortensen, on left is a 5 spd shifter, on right is a truck shifter. -
on left is a 4 spd shifter, on right is a 280zx shifter in the 5 spd config. -
on left is a 4 spd shifter, on right is a zx shifter in the 4 spd config -
Chronology of the spindle pin pulling tool--- Dan Bethea made the first ones, selling them on Hybridz. He didn't have any made up when I was about to do my suspension. I decided to make one for myself. Using mild steel etc, just to see how it would work. It worked well enough for me to find better materials to make them out of. The pic I have up on zdriver was the first version. Marty Rogan and seppi72 bought the 1st couple I made. I have since sent them updated parts for their tools. Soon after I posted pics, I saw my pics posted on another web site and selling them. I give credit to Dan Bethea for having the first idea to make the spindle pin tool.
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Z Car Club of Colorado has another track event september 11th at 2nd creek raceway. Come out and join the fun. www.zccc.org check the latest odometer(newsletter) for more information. www.2ndcreekraceway.com for track layout. -
If you can find a 5 spd shifter from a 280 get it. The length of the pivot point to the bottom of the shifter ball is shorter on the 5 speed. And to keep the shifting smooth, get the "help" part number 38377 to replace the bushings. They are for a chrysler door hinge but works perfectly for our cars.
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Just make sure you have the lock bolt out, then take the hacksaw or sawsall and cut on either side of the center section. Check with Courtesy Nissan for new spindle pins. They are about $25 each. With you being in Indiana doesn't help with all the salt they use on the roads. Even the tool I made would have a hard time with that.
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4/87 -89 build date turbos had the clutch type limited slip. The '88 shiro edition had the viscous not recommended with the mods you will have to do to make it work.
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I picked up my block from the machine shop. They only needed to hone it out .002. I bought total seal rings, the ring gap range for ea cyl is either .027 or .029. According to the book, my ring gap should be .014, total seal .014-.020. I was hoping that I would need to file the rings to the desired gap measurement. The final bore is 3.388, stock is 3.386 The total seal rings I bought, the 2nd ring is the gapless. The top ring is conventional. Any ideas, is this normal or should I call and get different rings? This was a junk yard motor with unknown mileage and i just wanted to do a stock rebuild. btw, Nissan standard rings for the turbo are NLA. thank you
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http://www.geocities.com/inlinestroker/ratio.html http://www.zcar.com/forums/read.php?f=1&i=438730&t=438730
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Pack the whole hub with grease. The hub is similar to the front with the groove going around to pack with grease.
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tackle the nasty job of pulling the spindle pin out without destroying it in the process. The real tool is similar but with obvious improvements for long life. For a pic go to zdriver photo gallery then search for my name. The one pictured was my prototype, the ones for sale have been improved. Heavier bearing so all the force is on the threads and thicker washer. I have sold 2 so far. Marty Rogan bought one, Before the improvement I made. When I made the improvement I sent the parts needed to improve the tool. $60 + $10 shipping in U.S. Darrel