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Darrel

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Everything posted by Darrel

  1. Darrel
    Using their cc system is a good way to establish credit. Make sure to pay off at least a couple months early.
  2. Darrel
    great find, now if I can find it in my favorites in safari after I upgraded the operating system.
  3. Darrel
    They weren't running adequately. New car for him and he's trying to run down the problem. I would start from the beginning. Is there that big of a difference in the choke mechanism between the british su's and ours? Unknowns, did he check the chokes? Did he adjust the knobs and was there change in mixture? A new to me car, i would want to start from scratch from the beginning.
  4. Darrel
    Make sure nothing is sticking. As mentioned, float levels are key to adjusting mixture. There is a recent thread concerning the sight glass method. The OP started the thread gaging interest in selling but went a bit further. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/carburetor-systems-s30/49599-su-sightglasses-available-see-fuel-bowl-levels.html
  5. Darrel
    How old were those tires? falken rt-615?
  6. Darrel
    The 280zxt i had, went to work, at lunch it was completely dead. I charged the battery and took it in to check. Idling it showed good, until I revved it high, then it showed 17+ volts. While taking it over to the shop, all the dash lights went haywire. Check it before it does damage to the battery. I had an optima so it didn't do much harm to it.
  7. Darrel
    could be over charging.
  8. Darrel
    second the hose method. Same exact spot on each carb. I double checked mine with a synch tool and there was no difference.
  9. Darrel
    I plan to do MS using the patton adapters. I like the fact that I can make it look like it still has su carbs. There will just be some extra wires showing. It will be just like having twin throttle bodies. Modify the domes to run wires and keep the float bowls for decoration. But don't ask me when I will even start or finish, or I may just go with a stock non-egr efi manifold.
  10. Darrel
    I did take my cork gasket off and put it in a book to try and keep it straight. 1/2mm off isn't going to hurt anything, just as long as you're within 1mm it's all good. Unless you want to be exact and want to adjust each of the screws exactly the same amount of turns to get the mixture set( ztherapy quote 2 carbs as one).
  11. Darrel
    I have used my sight glass on 4 screw and 3 screw carbs. The 4 screw carbs I had no problem since you can lift the float lid right off. On the 3 screw, I put a longer fuel hose from the rail to the carb so I can twist it around without fighting the shorter hose. The only problem with either is the gasket. Mine had the cork gasket and they would curl up. The other had paper gasket and didn't give any problems. To save time I only used 2 screws on the float lid. Maybe took 10, 15 mins tops on each carb. I do agree, being able to get a good eye on the level without having to bend over and estimate the level will work well. I was able to get it within 1mm of the mark.
  12. Darrel
    They are pretty much enclosed when installed. Unless the car was used on really dusty roads. Axle grease is fine.
  13. Darrel
    He does sell the adapters separately. You can use megasquirt with them.
  14. Darrel
    Patton Machine makes adapters that use the su carb throttle bodies to put injectors in. You can either get the whole system or just the adapters. A friend of mine just put one of these systems in his dime. Patton Machine Here is a facebook page showing his conversion. https://www.facebook.com/groups/140541961413/
  15. Darrel
    The bearing sits on top of the hat for the coil spring. The insulator sits on top of that. It isn't pressed in, not even a friction fit. Usually the bearing falls out on its own.
  16. Darrel
    If they aren't separated you can still use them. There is no bearing mated inside. On the front the thrust bearing just sits on top. On the rear there is a hard plastic/rubber that just sits inside, it isn't attached. It just sticks a little. Should come out in one piece. The bump stop is the one that will come out in pieces.
  17. Darrel
    You can see in my pic Marty posted the guts of the tool. I didn't take a pic of the other end. I use the mag wheel lug nuts to do the pulling and to thread on the end with a lock nut to keep it secure and if need be easier to replace if it gets stripped. A lot more thread engagement for both ends. What costs most in this set up is the bearing and the metric threaded rod. If you make one yourself, you have to buy a meter long rod. Then you have enough to make three. The mag wheel nuts are threaded all the way through and only need the decorative cap taken off, just a press fit. I pinched them off with the bench vise.
  18. Darrel
    static weight on a '73 with spare, tools and full tank of gas without driver, 2500 #
  19. Darrel
    Kum bya. Glad you found the problem.
  20. Darrel
    A friend of mine has done 5 tracks in 14 days. 1331 miles on those tracks. Hallett, RA, VIR. Not sure the other two tracks. His last was at VIR today. Last run of his day and trip. Will be on his way back to Colorado over the weekend. Pop! - YouTube
  21. Darrel
    I had a problem like that, only it wasn't dirty connections. It was more vibration disconnecting wires. On my way back home from seattle to denver I stopped for fuel in the middle of nevada. After paying I went out to start the car. All I got was the click. 10 mins of searching, I found the wire off the starter solenoid. Crimped it so it would stay on and started the car. Who knows what I would have gotten charged in the little town and what parts they would have replaced "tracking" down the problem. Know your car, fix it yourself, best way to not get raped by others who know less than you do about your car.
  22. Darrel
    MSA, pretty reasonable, less than $40 Motorsport! Heater Hoses - The Z Store, Nissan-Datsun 240Z-260Z-280Z-280ZX-300ZX(Z31/Z32)-350Z-370Z Parts
  23. Darrel
    Use the formed stock hoses, they will come with a new grommet for the fire wall.
  24. Darrel
    I replied last night, but the forum went down or something. Unless you work for cirque de sole, you would be better off taking the dash out to get to the heater hoses inside. You don't have to take the heater box out or the fan. Take the spdo cable off at the pigtail and the dash harness off at the connections in the passenger side. Radio out. There used to be a write up somewhere, maybe here and on zdriver. There is also a small hose that should be replaced. And now would be a good time to rebuild the heater valve. The Z Garage ? View topic - HOW TO: 280zx Dash Removal There are plenty more out there. One person can take it out, but two people needed to put it back in. It sits on a couple of pins so it can tilt out. Getting it lined up back on the pins can be tricky with one person. google "280zx dash removal"
  25. Darrel
    Did you try using a bump stop bolted to the RT mount along with the stock diff mount? With my nissan drivetrain I have had no issues at all. Only one is needed. And they can easily be found at various parts stores pretty cheap. http://a.cdnbrm.com/images/products/med/Suspension/belltech_bump_stop_kit.jpg
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