Darrel

new retainer, take head to reputable machine shop to get the bronze valve seats replaced with hardened ones.

You can put the retainer and keepers back on to see if it's stable. But may need a new retainer. Yes, definitely get new seals, don't forget to use the plastic sleeves that fit over the valve stem to keep from ruining the new seals. Some say not to take off the cam towers, but i have and have not run into any problems. Keep the cam in the towers and pry off, there are alignment dowels. When reinstalling just take your time while torquing down. The cam is internally oiled, same as a turbo motor. If a turbo head had a spray bar, then it was modified. With all the springs and valves in, check if any leak. With the #5 valve out, check if it has the bronze valve seats. Don't mix up valves. There is a lot more to look out for, get with your local z club and get recommendations on machine shop to have the head checked for straightness, and possibly shave bare minimum to clean it up before putting back on.

For that much they better take them out and put them back in.

brake lines and brake master are flared fittings, no locktite. But make sure you use a flare wrench.

No need for locktite. With both ends not going anywhere you don't need it.

Is the valve stem sunken down the retainer? I have seen this, I needed a new retainer. If this is the case, the head might not have to come off. If the head needs to come off, check to see what kind of seats are in the head, If bronze then take to machine shop to have hardened seats put in. Check with your local z club for recommendations.

Is the lash pad still on top? Take a pic of the valve in question. I am getting confused with your description.

Adjust the valves. If you have no adjustment on the valves then you will have to take the head off. The valve head aka broken, your engine probably wouldn't be running right now. That is also a worse case scenario. Which is the worse thing you can do. K.I.S.S.--- Keep It Simple Stupid. There is some ticking which is normal in these engines, most of that comes from the injectors. If there is no adjustment in the valves then chances are the seats have sunk or worn out, probably bronze seats.--pull head Noisy, running bad, etc the bronze seat may have come loose. Bent valve, nicks in the piston, worse case.--- pull head Noisy, running bad. Pull valve cover. If rocker arm and lash pad is off, put back on, adjust valves and run some 44k or seafoam. Possible sticking valve, 44k or seafoam may correct the problem.

Have you had the head off before? These cars took regular fuel till at least '79. I pulled the head off a '79 620 pu l20b still had the bronze seats.

One other thought. What year and does it still have bronze seats?

Every slave cylinder I have taken on and off used a copper crush washer to seal. Go to the hardware store and get one. Looking through my factory manuals, '82 zx, '79 620 and '73 240z. The 620 manual shows a washer at the slave although it isn't named but can see it in an assembled drawing. The '73 doesn't show or say anything about the washer. Mine did have a copper washer and it was all stock. The '82 zx service manual shows a washer for the slave and recommends use a new one when replacing parts.

Just as long as they don't fill in the rust holes around the wheel arches with bondo and a putty knife.

If the new ignition key fits into the other locks but doesn't turn, you can get the ignition rekeyed. If it doesn't fit then it's a reversed key blank and you would have to find reverse lock cylinders and have them keyed to the new key.

I didn't see any datsun/nissan in these pics, but great pics. This link is pic heavy, beware of your data plan limits. http://www.autopuzzles.com/forum/index.php?topic=21791.0

Nothing and everything.

ztherapy

look up kenz240, he has a thread on refurbishing his dash. I have seen it and he did a great job. Mine is next on his list. ;-)

wait till the engine is back in then you can check the alignment.

I haven't done any led conversions yet. I am just bookmarking pages until I am ready to convert. The 620 thread shows bulbs for different lighting zones, 90 deg, 180 deg etc.

You're thinking too much. Again, not z specific, but very similar. The third link will probably be most useful. LED Gauge Cluster - How-To - Ratsun Forums Instrument panel lights - Trucks - Ratsun Forums How To: LED Your 620 Truck (Inside) - How-To - Ratsun Forums

ratsun.net has a few threads about dash led's. Not z specific, but bulbs are pretty much the same. The threads are for 620 and 520 pickups, maybe other models.

Are you sure you left them out? Usually they stick and almost seem like they are part of the top hat.

It was advertised at $3500 a week or so ago. Bring a socket and breaker bar to see if it turns over at the crank pulley. floor boards for rust. Any old fixes for rust and collision etc. The 240z stickers are not period correct, they are ones sold by msa, so most likely it has been resprayed. I would be interested in coming to check it out with you. I'm not interested in it, just curious about it.