Darrel

glove box comes out the front. You see the folding/collapsing lines along the sides?

It lifts straight up, but make sure you mark it exactly where it is. It's not like the non turbo dizzy where it is asymmetrical.

As always there will have to be a track day. The first ZCON was hosted by the Z Car Club of Colorado in '88(?). Not sure if they had a track event as it was held in Aspen, maybe woody creek(?), then we held another in '95/95(?), we had the stapleton airport runways to use back then. I'm sure you will have Road Atlanta this year. If we ever put our hat back into the ring, it would be nice to host the 25th annual(2012?) ZCON. And we have a new 2.5 mile road course to use which the ZCCC is part owner. (broken record) www.highplainsraceway.com

Sensor connections is a good idea. Could be corrosion on the connectors. Unplugging and plugging back in a few times will narrow down the problem.

I would second what was posted on another forum. A&M automotive in north Boulder. Alex is very reasonable and honest.

Make sure you have the transmission in neutral before installing the pin. If in gear, then the lever will hit the shift rod cut out causing lever not to go all the way in allowing the pin not to line up.

I never said anything about the lever bottoming out. When shifting from 1-2 or 3-4, etc, the 4 spd lever will hit the top of the shift rod cut out. So it is not getting the full throw. Whether or not it is much of a problem I don't know, I never measured or ground down the area that hits the shift rod. I just found the correct lever with the 5/16"(IIRC) difference. You can see the marks that the longer lever made in one of the pics in my gallery.

You're using the zx shift lever. As mentioned your bushings are probably worn, but the pin and holes should line up unless there is something in the shift rod hole. Check my pic gallery for more info on the shifters. The only reason the 4 spd lever seems to shorten the throw, is the lever hits the top of the shift rod cut out as seen by one of the pics in my gallery. There are marks on both sides of the lever on the longer lever. You can take a grinder at the marks so that there won't be any interference.

pics or you got a chevette.

The plastic used on 280zx does not stand up to the uv rays at all. A domestic would probably work well if you're not worried about being authentic. It might be a little big compared to oe.

High Plains Raceway will have 2 free track days this week for member clubs and patrons of HPR. Sunday December 26th and Tuesday December 28th. Gates open at 9am, track goes hot at 10pm till 4pm. This is HPR's way of saying thanks to those who have made HPR a success in it's first two seasons. www.highplainsraceway.com

I have a '73 240 and an '82 turbo. The '82 goes for long trips and the 240 goes to the track and drives in the mtn roads. The zx has the 4 spd auto and not as much fun on the track, but the turbo is great on the road. I have driven the 240 to long beach and back. I didn't have any problems except the lack of a radio and a/c.

You will have to worry about torquing the pinion flange down too much. If torqued down too much it will eventually destroy the pinion bearing.

After the putty knife, you can use a brass drift/punch and hit at the thicker portions of the cover, areas similar that is on the transmissions to separate the halves.

just beat it, we are just talking about the diffy cover right?

msa fuse block and zsondabrain headlight and parking light harnesses should take care of everything, at least for the 240z.

you need a mustache bar from a 280z that had an r-200.

My 240 sat for 14 yrs when i bought it. I knew the tank had crud in it but wanted to get it out on the track before dropping the tank and replacing the vent hoses. I went through about 2 dozen fuel filters. After the track day I dropped it and took it to a car wash. The varnish that was in it came out in small sheets. The only spot I couldn't get to was behind the baffle. The inside of the tank still looked new. I still have a fuel filter before the stock electric pump as well as the one before the mechanical pump. I haven't had to change any of the filters for at least 5 yrs. Moral of the story, if you bought a car that has been sitting, one of the first things you need to do is drop the tank and clean it out.

I uploaded the pic, but is pending approval. If you want to see the marks, install your lever and move from 1-2 a few times, or if you already are using the lever with the long pivot, you will already have the marks showing.

It's a bad idea it's a z. Why would you want to take on another project it's a z. It probably needs a lot more work than what you are ready for it's a z you know you want to get it.

You know you're going to rip it all apart. >:-)

A stock '73 had 2 fuel pumps. The mechanical pump on the engine and an electric pump back by the tank. The stock electric pump has a filter inside, just unscrew the end and pull the filter out. It will probably be easier to take the electric pump out to disassemble and clean and to replace the filter. I can only speak for my '73, I need both pumps to be able to run on the track and street. It won't run with just the mechanical pump, of course I have a 2.8 in it. It might run if i bypassed the electric pump, but it's ok now as long as I keep the wires hooked up.

The filter should have an arrow showing the flow. If a stock filter in the engine compartment, then it should connect at the bottom which has a straight nipple. The "top" goes at a right angle to the fuel pump.

Does the car still have both fuel pumps(electric by the tank and mechanical on engine)? The electric pump has a filter inside if it is stock.