Darrel

That would be roostmonkey

There are 2 ways to use the RT mount. Like you mentioned, use nothing on the bottom and risk ripping the gm mount down from the top. Or use the stock nissan mount, RT bracket and then a frame snubber cut to fit which will sandwhich the diff between the frame snubber mounted in the RT mount and the stock mount on the crossmember. Now where's that cat?

no clamp on the injector side. The ring pinches down on the hose around the barb fitting. Just like stock nissan.

sodering iron works well. The ring is needed to keep the hose in place when pushing the hose on. Cut hose to length after pushing hose onto the injector making sure the hose is seated at the base of the injector. Make sure cut is straight and square. No clamp needed. The sodering iron won't damage the injector barbs.

The original gopro camera mount has one suction cup and seems to work well. I'm sure it mine will do equally well with a slightly heavier camera and different frame. Having a safety strap would be a good idea to keep it off the floor if it does fail. Here's my camera mount in action. The original sessions were 20 and 15 minutes.

You can use any of them you like. Check each one yourself to see which one would be better for what you want it for, not just look at the rated pounds it can hold.

We both had a great time, I only wish I would have thought about it sooner taking turns leading in the other sessions. The tires really were the difference. I finally decided to get some better tires and now I won't look back. Loy was supposed to have 150hp 2.4, not sure if that was at the crank or at the wheels. I have a refreshed 2.8 with 101 hp at the wheels. He had street tires. By the next track day I will have a zx 2.8 with much better compression. We will see. You can see the lap times. 2:34 approx/lap.

The Z Car Club of Colorado hosted their second track day of the year at our new track. It was my turn to follow the other white 240z. And I used my home made mount for a camera I found. $5 for both of the harbor frieght suction cups and screws.

You should be more than able to do it. The haynes manual should have the dimensions needed for the chain tensioner keeper or you could check napa to see if they have one.

Are you still using both fuel pumps?

After using some extra material I have, I came up with this. this one looks much better.

watch out, this guy's a stalker.

I'm still sorting it out. I just needed something set up real quick for our track day this saturday. The socket is there just to test the weight while sitting in the sun. There is a bolt holding the bracket and will be tightened enough that in normal track driving it won't swing forward. Sudden stops would be another thing. The bad thing about this intitial set up is the length of the frame. There might be too much torque when in the twisties. Another frame and another suction cup should work out much better. The ideal solution to the mount will be a U-shaped bracket and 2 suction cups

Here's what I have out of pocket. I found the camera and after 2 months in the lost and found and posts on the local forums, it's mine. gopro camera-- $0 plexiglass to repair case-- $0 1/4" aluminum bar stock-- $0 suction cups-- $2 http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=97713 screws-- $0.60 total--- $2.60 Double that if you want to use 2 suction cups. I don't count my time since I'm doing this for myself. The picture speaks for itself so you can see it is pretty simple. You could also use plexiglass in place of the bar stock. heat and bend to fit. It's a very easy DIY project for which ever camera you have.

Did you have the problem with the nissan transmission? oops, I guess you did.

That's cool. As long as you talked to him.

It might be a good idea to start trolling around the local yards to get any nuts and boltas or at least one each for the size. Pics would be good to see what you're up against.

Does he have a stock of them still? They usually sell out within a week after he gets a batch done. The snubber you can get at any auto parts store in the suspension section. They only run about $5 for a package of 2. You cut to fit.

It's not solid. You still use the original rubber mount with an added snubber to reduce the amount the diff will move. There is still movement. The RT mount does not transmit any vibration or noise inside the cabin. And as noted the strap does stretch allowing too much movement and breaking the mount. And the RT mount bolts directly in place of the strap and its brackets. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=125585&highlight=mount This is the snubber I used to go over the top. http://www.suspension.com/9-9101R.jpg

Where in colorado are you? There is a z club. www.zccc.org

Are you still using the stock mount? I'm using the stock mount along with one of those round stepped bumpers that you can cut down to allow it to fit between the RT mount and top of the diffy. The price is very reasonable for the mount and will keep the stock mount from moving much if at all.

Check on hybridz for the ron tyler differential mount. You can use this along with the stock mount and a frame snubber to sandwhich the front of the diffy between the stock mount and the RT mount. It mounts in place of the strap assembly.

Couldn't you have strapped her to the bonnet?

A few of the clubs in Colorado have had their first event at HPR. The Z Car Club of Colorado will have their first event at High Plains Raceway on May 23rd. If you plan to attend, get your reservation in. www.zccc.org www.highplainsraceway.com

On a stock fuse box, the wire would attach to a lug on the back of the block directly behind the right side--- ammeter/amp And it is most likely a 10 gauge wire.