Darrel

Are you coming or going from home? Stick around the denver area and visit High Plains Raceway tomorrow (6-22) for the z club track day. Friday night camping is allowed.

all those places are scams, they say they have all the info, but it's never current. Try facebook if you have it.

Had someone do that driving my 620. Still waiting to set something up in my 240z, don't know what it sounds like when it's on the track.

chain wrench around crank pulley.

hello to 2008.

I had a friend transfer my vhs copy to dvd, so it's the same quality as what the vhs tape was. I don't think ZT remade any portion, but I do believe they transferred it to dvd. I couldn't tell you for sure though.

This is a great thread. It saved me from trying to find fittings for the drain plug. I wouldn't want "permanent" site glass because once you set the floats they should be good as long as the needles are in good shape and the float isn't hanging up on anything inside or have a hole in it. My main problem was not being able to use the adjustment knob and have any changes at all unless they were screwed way rich. Now I can play with them and make sure I am completely in tune without guessing. In the future I can use my site glass to double check float level or to see if I can get it closer, but if it's within 1mm I am good with it. The next step now is to adjust the knobs so the fluid level is the same at the nozzle of each carb regardless of the float settings. The float level gets the mixture knobs reasonably close to each other to be able to tune them better. I watched the ZT vid again yesterday. For the 4 crew he used washers to get the mixture nuts at the same starting point so when the knob is all the way up, it would stop at the same place on each carb, like he said, make two carbs as one. Now i wish ZT could redo the video and break it down in sections. Float adjustment, needles, etc. Maybe the dvd has that, but the old vhs doesn't. Kind of tough when it's 5 hrs long. I did copy it to dvd, maybe I can use my movie maker and break it down myself. I will have to play with that as well, anyone got any popcorn?

According the the factory service manual diagram(pictured in post #2) It is measured from the inside of the float bowl lid. When this thread(multiple forums) came up I decided to adjust my float bowls with a site glass. Before I was going to look into finding bungs that would screw into the drain plugs. Then I read arne's post and decided to use his method which is basically the same way the OP set his site glass up, only his sight glass is graduated making it easier to see where the level is. I used what I had from my miracle whip jar brake bleeder set up, which was a piece of clear tubing about 12" long and I marked the float bowl with a pencil where the level needed to be at. For the first time in 10 yrs when I move the mixture screws I can actually hear a change in idle unlike before when I had to turn the knobs down at least 3 turns. I just kept the mixture knobs at 2 turns down. It seemed to work, no pinging, good mpg and still a lot of fun. When adjusting floats using the 9/16" dimension float to lid, it turned out I was 5mm too low compared to the 23mm dimension using the site glass. With the site glass I am within 1mm of stock specs. I still have work to do, reading plugs, figuring out idle settings when checking mixture, but at least I am close to be able to even use the mixture knobs. The light colored plug was from the back carb at 2 turns down, the black one was from the front carb at 3 turns down, that was when the idle changed, both idle front and back sounded the same. To sync the carbs I used a hose and my ear. When I checked that against a unisyn, there was no difference.

It's in Iowa.

I hate it when that happens.

It does say you can use the earlier choke cables on your 260. Finding them would be the only problem. I wonder how much they are off. I did put this in my '73. The dimensions are wrong on the instruction sheet, so whoever buys this should be aware. It would be much easier with tech screws as well, no need to pre drill.

Bringing this thread back because it has good info. And I made a couple of comical remarks. I had to replace my windshield yesterday. I was going to go through safelite. Got a real good price through our z club discount list. $159 + gasket. I had already bought a gasket for around $60. A friend of mine had a couple of windshields and he offered them up for free and help to install one. Neither of us had installed a windshield before so it was going to be a learning curve for us both. We both did our homework with vids and forum threads. But not enough since we broke the first glass. When it wasn't going in very well I was about to pull it out and start over. But one last attempt to push it in *crack*. Windshield-1 us-0. Left it for the night and did a bit more homework. I started looking for vids again. I found one that actually explained in detail how to install it. It was for a vw. My problem began when I first placed the glass in the opening. I placed the bottom channel in first on the pinch weld. Wrong, by the time we got to the top it was too high and the top couldn't go in. As shown in this vid, you need to place the whole gasket in the opening, keeping the gasket on top of the pinch weld, not started on the bottom as I did. The gasket needs to sit on the pinch weld ledge touching flush all around. The next morning my friend came back jup with the second windshield, from the time we placed the windshield in the opening it took us about 30 minutes to install. MUCH easier the second time around. Would I do it again? Yes if I had a used winshield and didn't have glass coverage and or the money to have it done professionally with new glass. I will probably replace the gasket in the hatch at some point, just for a little bit more experience. Now that I actually put in some constructive advice and what little experience I picked up. Koalia, we need to know how you got your nickname. ;-)

I have heard good things. Material better than stock and will last longer than you or the car.

check the holes where the pins holds things together at the pedal and clutch master, make sure there isn't any slop.

everything but the transmission crossmember and the steering rack bushings.

Having owned both and taken each on a long trip or two, The 280zx is a great road car. Taking them on the track, the 240 wins.

charger 2.2 rules.

exidy

Peter Allnet, frequents hybridz and zcar. Probably here as well, maybe a different name. He makes fuel rails, he's a good guy. Try to get a hold of him on hybridz would be your best bet.

Corrosion + resistance = bad. hot combo switch before putting in MSA fuse block, after installation it was only warm. MSA fuse block, very good plug and play replacement. To get the most out of the MSA fuse block you should go with Dave Irwin's parking light harness and headlight harness. Now the combo switch doesn't get warm at all.

n/m n/m

I don't have a battery operated sawzall. There was rust starting to come through along with bondo showing. I didn't pay much attention after that.

It was a loved car at one point. It did have a respray. I don't remember if I felt along the top of the rear wheel wells for any obvious dubious body work. It did have rust coming through the rocker panels. If it was running and had title they probably would have tried to sell it. This yard does try to sell cars before they are put out in the yard. But they would have to run first try with the key. It hard to say how cars get to yards like that. I test drove a 620 pickup. It ran ok, not a lot of rust but enough to turn me away. Probably 3 months later it was at a yard. Lost keys, lost title, but who touches a car without a title? I find that most that go into yards are not running and are donated to non profit and they go directly to the auctions. BTW it was at the you pull and pay yard in denver. That itself was built on a small landfill hill.

If you go with the stripe, your choice. My vote would be for the original stripe look. The newer one just has the unfinished look about it.

Get your old injectors cleaned and tested. cruize performance(?) When I had my zxt, I bought new injectors from napa, they were for turbo. But I had nothing but problems with them. Mainly lean running. I decided to get new inj from nissan and never had a problem after that.