Elliott000

Always protected! Which brings up something else, isocyanite I see some epoxys claim to be low VOC as does this one and isocyanite and chromate free? Is that a big deal? Chemicals are there for a reason . I know granny claims good stuff with pro form and I trust em as well as other reviews just curious. Sent from my SM-N950W using Tapatalk

I'll be spraying epoxy and hi build myself but my buddys going to spray color in his booth whenever that time comes.. Thanks, I might goto local jobber shop for paint. Km's guy said they don't move alot of this stuff, that or ill order in a fresh batch from em. Sent from my SM-N950W using Tapatalk

Couldn't have asked for better fenders man, grannyknot I was reading some more on the pro form stuff, says to do 1:1:1/2 reducer for sealer. Is that right? Just thin it out for sealing purpose vs primer I guess. Doesn't make sense to me haha Sent from my SM-N950W using Tapatalk

Got the drivers rocker in and all the work behind it complete. Drilling spot welds on the upper frame is a pain! Will be even more so when i have to pop the one off the repair chunk. Found some secret rott under the a pillar section of the upper frame.foing to have to tidy that up and por 15 the inside before fitting the replacement. The biggest pain is welding/cutting in around thos oval air ducts just behind the rad support. My passenger side job wasn't the prettiest, hopefully this side I'll find a way to make it tidier. Any of u guys ever use this pro form epoxy primer? Sent from my SM-N950W using Tapatalk

I did take a look at thier stuff before pulling the trigger on silvermine. Didn't notice the e brake functionality add on. Too late now! Brakes have shipped. And for the guys interested in model etc for the brakes, i asked Edan what they are for future pad replacement reasons... As follows stage 4 front kit uses 1991 toyota 4runner v6 caliper pads. and 1983 300zx n/a front rotors stage 4 rear uses 2006 mustang gt rear caliper pads and re drilled rotors Sent from my SM-N950W using Tapatalk

Good to go on that, I have a box in point roberts. Ordered some motorsport stuff too in the way of carpet and seat kits. I'll claim that cheaper order and smuggle the silvermine one haha. Sent from my SM-N950W using Tapatalk

I did it, I but the bullet and went all out. Silvermine stage 4 all around and 15/16 master cylinder.... In terms of replacement pieces and pads, the fronts are the Toyota 4runner calipers but I would like to confirm what the rears are exactly, i emailed the guy to hopefully confirm. Sent from my SM-N950W using Tapatalk

I think the calipers in the silvermine stage 4 kit are 00 to 05 stang Sent from my SM-N950W using Tapatalk

Zkars..... Mission? , I have a beauty chunk of sheet metal there to patch should it get there. But I agree I'd rather not sut the hoods up. I cleaned the patchy hood off and the only spot of concern is that one I pictured earlier. Rest of it seems fine, ill hit it with treatment before priming. Sent from my SM-N950W using Tapatalk

Which one is more of a screw around to deal with. First hood has surface rust as pictured and I hammered a dent out of the front it's straighter than the other but, surface rust pitting, can I just metal prep and epoxy then forget about it? Second hood, substantial front nose and corner damage but zero rust on the surface no pitting seems to have some twist. At some point someone got excited with a puller.... Sent from my SM-N950W using Tapatalk

That's why I'm having all this conversation. I priced out rebuilding the stock setup drums and to get new wheel cylinders is like 500 bucks alone! Hence the disc deal, I probably don't "need" a stage 4 kit as I won't be tracking the car but I do want a combo that works good. I just have a hard time pulling a 1000 bucks out just for rear brakes, but it is what it is. I'm always abeleiver in stopping power, I'm Gunna geek out and read lots today, maybe I'll find another smaller set up that's effective. But I think no matter what I'm committed to at least 400 bucks for the brackets etc. It does seem thier package deal is cheaper then piecing the mustang job together locally. I might blow my wad on front and rear brakes, bearings, bushings then ill be outfitted for a full roller and be left wihh getting the stock engine online for inspection. Stand down on the rb desires for a yr Sent from my SM-N950W using Tapatalk

Just to add to that, I think ill do similar to what you did. I'll grab the kit in terms of bracketry and then source the calipers and rotors locally. Just gotta decide on those mustang ones or maximas. Sent from my SM-N950W using Tapatalk

Any thoughts on why the no lock up on rears? I know lock up isn't ideal but it would be good to get there and tune it out. M/c stroke? Sent from my SM-N950W using Tapatalk

That's the guys yup! I was on thier website, more options and for a few bucks more I can get a rwd 5 spd attached to er too. Thbks guys Sent from my SM-N950W using Tapatalk

I'm addicted boys I sold my wheeling rig . Focus on this, I probably have enough scratch now to get the necessary goodies I need plus shop for an rb25 Sent from my SM-N950W using Tapatalk

do you know if the silvermine kits are confirmed to have a working parking brake? I thought i read some where Id have to do a line lock setup which wont fly on my BS inspection lol

Yea parted it out. He was trying to sell as a whole but no one would buy it for what he wanted considering the custom work and motor swap I suppose. Sold the body/frame to one guy, driveline to another. Sent from my SM-N950W using Tapatalk

Team! I found mint fenders and buckets off a guy in Calgary, front valance pieces too.... Going to organize ajippi9when he's home Wednesday but here's a pic of em on the car. Same condition just parted his ride out. All steel no nonsense. Gunna cost a few bucks for the set but it's the best ill get I rekon! I'm getting a hood tomorrow locally because turns out mine has a pretty good twist to it and the nose is buggered hard to tell in pic but somebody went to town with a stud puller and shes rough on a few axis's. Almost there in terms of being able to dry fit all parts and spray epoxy! Sent from my SM-N950W using Tapatalk

Hey guys, looking to pull the trigger on a disc swap now. I see these two available. any one better than the other? zcardepot has all the goods but I wonder if I can source the rotors and calipers locally for cheap... thoughts, im also open to other options. https://zcardepot.com/products/rear-disc-brake-conversion-kit-240z-260z-280z http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/24-5581 Thanks

sorry, cars upside down. skin with rivets/lower is the quarter panel. Other piece is the inner wheel house. Im not concerned about the inner just the quarter straightness

Also, more important. I've been starting at this inner fender for over and hour trying to figure out how to button it up and I'm getting choked. Maybe I shoulda spent the 500 bucks.... What to do. I don't care how or looks I just want the road grime to stay out until I cut for flares after inspection. Just tack a piece in and around and load the gaps with seam sealer? I don't even want to tack it to the quarter panel because I feel like a tack in the middle of the panel is gunna make a bump ill have to deal with more bondo later Sent from my SM-N950W using Tapatalk

Any thoughts on how to shrink/tighten this dent up? Rear quarter dent, id like it improved for when I tie the patch in Sent from my SM-N950W using Tapatalk

Referencing the main front rails that the motor mount/crossmember/suspension bolts too. Yours may be fine but mine were trash. It's funny some of these cars can be solid in places others are wrecked. Either way. If you can acid dip that's awesome and i think you'll be fine. Sent from my SM-N950W using Tapatalk

My first thought when I got my car home was dammit. Toasted haha, but I'm happy I chose otherwise. I had to rebuild the whole front frame rails, the uppers we are talking about I was prepared to hand make and had started but scored on these. How's the lower/main frames on your car? Hardest part is them. Floors and those rails are pretty straight forward but re installing the tension rod mounts was a measure 8 times weld once deal Sent from my SM-N950W using Tapatalk

Aircraft stripper is badass and a huge labor saver. Roofs good to go, i went at the driver side mechanically and clearly my work lies in that quarter panel ha! She's seen some bangin around. Yellow line is patch panel black will be about where my weld seam is. I'll have to brush up on my hammer and dolly work and try to smash the dent out some. It's apparent this quarter has been replaced before too. The entire wing, its welded at the roof line not lead like the rest. Buried secrets eh.... Sent from my SM-N950W using Tapatalk