Elliott000

Here's where I'm at tonight. It started going in good then the heat moved it abit. She burned a few holes i had to chase on the stock sheet metal but overall its there! Not as pretty as I wanted but it's solid. It's actually 16 guage I used over the straight run. Did that because of the double sheet metal I saw inside of that "tube". Now I need to figure out how to work those front little wing pieces ahead of the rad support. Slowly but surely. FedEx delivered my tabco stuff today yeehaw I got me some fresh sheet metal. Hopefully since the quarters are in relatively decdnt shape away from the rotten lip... I wont be chasing holes around ha. I appreciate all the input aswell, this is a different ball game than blasting 1/4 inch plate together. Hopefully once I'm through with all the front end stuff the rear quarter panel fit up and welding will be smooth. I'd hate to screw that up. Sent from my SM-N950W using Tapatalk

Will do, people can laugh I'm good with it haha! I'll be around tomorrow and snap some shots. Sent from my SM-N950W using Tapatalk

I used 18 on the straight run. As posted a few posts up. I just dont know how to form the flat pieces up the front Sent from my SM-N950W using Tapatalk

My attempts for repair are struggling! While that one run I posted in the middle is pretty straight forward im struggling with shaping the metal for where it ties in the back and gets wider and also I assume I'll have a hard go at making the front. Any suggestions or links to tin bashing and forming steel into odd shapes? I have a set of hammer and Dolly's plus various other smashing devices and a oxy/acetelyne torch should i need heat. Im wondering if i should have used the stock guage steel to simplify shaping Sent from my SM-N950W using Tapatalk

Question about the "pads" un the upper bulkheads, you can see in your pictures there's three per side, like blocks. Whats thier purpose? One sticks out a bit to the side... Reason I ask is I'm mid fabrication on those upper bulkheads and do I need to add those on or can I live without? Sent from my SM-N950W using Tapatalk

Woohoo. Thanks alot man that's awesome. Pm me the mail cost with your PayPal and I'll sort ya out! Sent from my SM-N950W using Tapatalk

Awesome man. I appreciate those! Sent from my SM-N950W using Tapatalk

All good. Measurements and a napkin sketch work . What the stock one made from like 16 guage ot something? I was goin to use 1/8 or 3/16 and just weld it up. I trust my ability on the non breaking side of things. My broncos held up to a little air time hehe Sent from my SM-N950W using Tapatalk

Hey guys thanks for the responses. I was willing to make my own because it would be quick and easy but Zkars if you have a pair and a gas pedal assembly you are willing to part with pm me a price and we can go from there. thanks Found the gas pedal. One hidden box with some other random stuff but still need link mounts!

I changed my mind after looking at more coil over options. I ran em! Since they were here and cost nothing why not. Cosmos done, won't have em on the car for like a year tho haha Sent from my SM-N950W using Tapatalk

Do any of you guys have dimensions on these pieces? Its basically the only part I dont have for the car, them and a gas pedal assembly! I have plenty of various stock at home and for the 25 us plus shipping I could just make them in about an hour if I had dimensoins.... Bolt hole widths are a no brainer since the holes are on the chassis but I need elevation numbers... https://zcarsource.com/rear-transverse-link-mounting-bar-set-240z-260z-280z-71-78-used Thanks EH

The cam sold. So she's no more concern, Now however there are multiple rd25det for sale around here for about 1500 bucks.... Im gunna hold off and spend that on what's needed body wise haha, but that's where my mind is at Sent from my SM-N950W using Tapatalk

Good news on the bent control arm is that those pieces are from a different car than mine. I had grabbed another rear end because the spindles and one brake drum are trashed on my cars. Luckily for me the rear frame work on my car is good to go but thanks for the thought on it. Sent from my SM-N950W using Tapatalk

Got em off with a 24" pipe wrench but discovered that one of the arms is bent just on that outboard part. Shes a bear to straighten too. Luckily I have a second set of arms at home Sent from my SM-N950W using Tapatalk

I kinda feel like an idiot for not trying that haha, i figure it would be press fit. I'll give er a go. Sent from my SM-N950W using Tapatalk

Hey guys, ive seen every post online on cutting out the spindle side bushing and that is an easy/obvious busbi g replacement procedure for me but I'm scratching my head on the frame side bushing. The bolt that is on the end with a massive washer is off. So I can see the knurled face of part of it and the tube which is part of the control arm. But what's the plan to pull this thing off? Never dealt with a bushing this style before just standard press out or burn out jobs. Any info is appreciated. Sent from my SM-N950W using Tapatalk

Thanks zkars, I'm going to check em out tomorrow with one of mine side by side. Hopefully they will do the job for me Sent from my SM-N950W using Tapatalk

I've done some googling and can't find the answer I need. One of my front tubes is trashed 1971 240z, my buddy has a pair of 280z tubes/spindles, i understand they have a larger outside diameter, in terms of my setup and want onto run these Cosmo coilovers to start out and get my chassis a roller, can I run 280z front tubes on a 240?is there length/spring mount differences I should be aware of,should I buy em for 100 bucks or cruise the web for another set of 240 tubes. There's a set locally but buddy wants 250.bucks and they have more rust crap on em than mine did. Main problem with mine was NO WAY to get the strut out. She was welded in there with rust ,and in the efforts to remove it... I trashed the tube Sent from my SM-N950W using Tapatalk

Pretty sure I found a shot of the tabco quarters with the fold. They tie in to the jam like factory which is good. Only pain will be the long welds.... Body work practice is in order. Patience and cool each tack I guess! Sent from my SM-N950W using Tapatalk

Hey again z peeps! Any thoughts on identifying a cam that's in an engine? Like is there a way for a regular dude to measure it. I been reading about the n42 head on an l24 with flat tops and while everything sounds awesome with nearly 10:1 Compression I hear about issues with detonation and having to run low advance. I'm just curious if since this engine has a different cam with a bit of overlap to help the issue. I sold that stage 4 its not for me plus I needed a bunch of other parts to go with it including springs pads etc. Any thoughts on cam measurement Sent from my SM-N950W using Tapatalk

Good to know. I don't mind a bit of Tom ****ery to make it work. Rockers should be here soon so we shall see. I am a bit nervous about the quarter repair tho. I basically need thier panel but right down to the bottom. Now I have to buy that little bottom peice someday to finish it off. Maybe I can find a guy locally cutting up a car, ill keep my eyes peeled online. Sent from my SM-N950W using Tapatalk

Any of u guys familiar with tabco panels? I just ordered the rockers but need to cut the quarters up some aswell. I can't afford the quarters right now but I want to know if they have the fold on em into the door jamb or is it just a cut edge? Sent from my SM-N950W using Tapatalk

Sold er will buy sheet metal with the incoming cash! Sent from my SM-N950W using Tapatalk

Nice, hey Jeff what do you use chemical wise before you spray? I've painted a number of things on my truck and had issues with paint and I assume it's because I did a half assed job on prep of raw steel. Still some form of oil on it I guess because the paint bubbled or rippled the odd time. Sent from my SM-N950W using Tapatalk

Awesome thanks Sent from my SM-N950W using Tapatalk