my240

should I change this distributor from points to electronic ignition. Would performance be that much better.

Here are a few pics.

I'll try to get back over to it to get some pics. I widened the point gap and it seemed to give me a bit more response at carbs and timing at 10. Understand this car doesn't run more than a few hours a year. So I'm aware of the fact that other things could be acting up. I went thru the carbs last year so I feel confident there pretty close. Raining every day so moisture could be playing a part. Overall I'm happy with the way it's running, just not clear why adjustment on distributor is limited. Also, where is good place to get key blanks. Need to get a set. Thanks

It must be about 8 deg. If removing the distributor didn't do it,,how did I lose all the adjustment. Both the adjustments are cranked to the right as far as they'll go. If you move back car will rough then quit. Points are at 35 dwell.

You guys have jogged my memory a bit. 40 years or so ago I was told to try this new distributor for better performance. I took mine off, and decided to keep what I had and put it back on. I had to be a tooth off. I told myself I will go back and reset but never did. I could turn everything to get close and just pretty much forgot I did it. And yes I'm fully aware there are two bolts. I have a few antique cars that I've built and try to stay mechanically sound. This problem was caused by me years ago which I will fix over the next few days. 99% of the time it's the mechanic not the cars fault. I just put new radiator hoses on and wondered what you guys thought about aluminum radiators? I still have the original. One last thing. I have the original keys but need another set made. Where do you buy a good set of blanks. Rt and Lft. Thanks

Since I've owned this car (almost 50 years) the timing on the distributor has been very close but needs just a tad more. There isn't any more adjustment to turn it. Should I pull it out and set it back one tooth? Runs fine, but could be better. Thanks