PrincePaul

Removed them completely, the transistor ignition unit where those come from is obsolete in my setup (123 with Weber Carbs) So I removed all of its cables. But I´m not sure if some signals are needed for the ecu. Better check the FSM for the transistor ignition unit. It has its own chapter. The red and green wire are not needed for sure.

Sure. Can’t find a better pick right now. It’s just one of those radio signal condensers which you also find on the alternator. Directly mounted on one of the coil bracket screws for ground and the cable connected to the minus side of the coil.

Was on the hunt for some bushing diameters for the trans crossmember and found this thread. Just to add my 2 cents to this conversation. I got the full energy suspension kit for my 280z and the instructions told me to retain the sleeves. I also send everything to the powdercoating guy and was a bit disappointed after I saw that I should´ve removed them on the front and rear control arm - but mustache and gearbox crossmember need to retain the oem sleeve. So seems that even in the same brand there are differences?! Maybe 240z/280z have different parts in the energy suspension kit. acc to the PN should be the same thou. Always measure and check it seems.

@CanTechZ Front is 6,76mm and rear 3,85 mm acc. to the glass manufacturer. I measured the following front: 6,52 mm and rear 3,66 mm on my 78" 280Z. I don´t know exactly where they got that information, but as I´m aware off there where just so many glass thicknesses available and together with the intermediate foil it comes down to the values they supplied.

Seems that finally after a massive covid delay the first one got delivered. A friend of mine received its package this week: I hope the ones who ordered got theirs, too. Maybe I´m swapping out mine during the winter, as the car is finally road legal since last friday. So I postponed my own delivery a bit.

Alright guys, thanks for your input. it’s fixed now. The standard coil condenser which was on the plus side stock is now on the minus side of the coil to smoothen out the signal. worked perfectly. Haven’t tried high rpm but signal is there so far. just have to buy a new one so I don’t have to relay on the 40 year old one. does someone know which Typ it is? Can’t find anything in the FSM. Maybe one of you knows how much farad it has? Btw: i also checked the other mentioned things: resistor was 2.2k the Stock coil as well as the new Bosch red have 1,3ohm so everything is fine in that regard.

Yes that’s all gone. @Zed Head it gets power from the ignition position of the key pin 15 and if the coil produces sparks the minus of it closes the circuit for the relay. Kinda - something makes that relay special otherwise it would be a normal switch relay. but I try this first next time. If that’s the problem than we’ve to figure out how to make that system work differently maybe with a optocoupler or so.

No it’s a relay that powers the pump when ignition is sensed via the coil negativ. It does not supply power to the coil. It goes to coil pickup 1 which is the negativ side. yes the factory unit it all gone also factory ecu. Yeah I’ve the old one from the positiv side of the coil, which I could easily hook up to the negativ side. But I’ll also try removing the fuel safety relay wire just in case. so 4 possible solutions right now: 1. wire problem, but as it senses something I guess not the case maybe still ground problem. Should be easily checked by direct wiring or probing 2. negative effect from the fuel safety circuit 3. interference where a condenser might help 4. resistor value wrong i might also try the factory coil which was installed on the car - maybe it requires a different ohm value. But as it’s on the negativ side i don’t know why the Tacho would be affected by that.

Yes the blue wire. That one basically goes only from coil minus to tach, nothing else. that’s the diagram for the pump. It basically shuts the pump off if you’ve an accident.

Thanks I’ll check. I also found in some other thread that someone installed a capacitor like on the generator or coil in the sense line to smooths out the signal or a diode. There is easy access to the resistor I might try those but now that the dash is in its really hard to get to the back side of the tach. Especially cause the dash has a cover on it…

Hey Guy´s. I´ve the exact same problem/behavior like the thread starter but with a 280z. So I should have the tach that works right away with the 123 dizzy, but it doesn´t. Mine is MJ 78 so it comes with no ballast resistor and with transistor ignition unit from factory. During the restoration I changed the stock coil to a red Bosch with no resistor and removed the stock ignition unit completely. The 123 is hocked up iaw instructions, red to coil+, black to coil - and blue to ground. Elec. Fuel injection is removed completely as well -> exchanged with Webers. So the tach gets its sensing cable from the minus side of the coil via a resistor. Nothing else is connected in line with it anymore. I´ve measured the stock resistor, it has a value which I can´t confirm because I can´t find the oem value anywhere to check it to, but at least it has continuity. At first I thought of a ground problem of the tach itself as I just had the dashboard hanging lose during testing phase but now that everything is bolted down and still shows a jumping needle and when you push the throttle it goes back to 0. I probed the tach and its ground connections/metal strap and also tach to dash - all grounded perfectly. Coil + has nothing but the black/white wire and no capacitor as 123 says its build in anyway. Coil - has the 123 dizzy black, the tach sense wire and my fuel safety relay sense wire connected. If I remember right my tach also doesn´t have that magnetic field loop mentioned in the other thread. But maybe a ferromagnetic ring thingy around the sense wire like you have on some electronic devices might help? Any ideas? Thanks in advance. To be honest I´ve no idea where to start. Probably jumping the stock resistor in the sensing line and see what happens or run a new wire directly from the coil to the tach. Maybe a connector issue ?!

I send the list of people willing to buy one to the manufacturer a couple days back. They finished calculating the shipping costs for all outside Germany and will contact you individually via given email address. Leadtime is three weeks. If all who send me a message are staying committed we´re making it 😄 Thank you all. Dennis

Alright guys, the final prices are here. Frist there is still no supplier for the raw glass the manufacturer would need to produce lighter door glass or rear hatch glass....they are still working on it thou. But they will go in production with the windscreens now. There will be two thicknesses available. One that consists of two 1,6mm panes which actually got a bit cheaper and one that is made out of two 2,1mm panes. Both blue tinted like OEM. Both with DOT and E Sign. 2,1/2,1mm 240€ 1,6/1,6mm 390€ That price is excluding TAX but includes shipping within GERMANY. So for all others interested outside of germany the manufacturer needs your address to calculate the exact shipping costs. Now that its actually happening we need to get at least 10 orders in so they will start to produce. Iaw my list we have enough people interested but lets see who actually buys one in the end. I´d say the easiest is, that everyone who is willing to buy a new windshield sends me the full name, address, contact email and the quantity of desired windshield version and I forward it all together to the manufacturer. Lets see if, cause its some kind of group-buy, they add another discount... Have a nice weekend 🙂 9 Orders ATM. 3 of them are shipping quotes for now. Only 1 missing so it´ll start.

UPDATE: At the moment there is no supplier for blue tinted glass in the right thicknesses in Europe. The manufacturer is looking into other markets to still produce it. For the Windshield they are gathering data for the necessary test to obtain the DOT and E approval. I ask for a Kit in clear glass as well, so lets see. These are the ones they start to produce now as lightweight version: Audi VW BMW Porsche Mazda Opel A4 B6 Golf 1 - 4 E30 / E30M 997 MX 5 NA Speedster S2 Coupé E36 E46 Atm in pre stage: Audi VW Nissan BMW A3 8L Golf 6 R 32 F 80 TT 8S Golf 7 R 33 F 90 A4 B6 / B7 R 34 R 35 I hope there will be a column Datsun, soon....

As far as I´m aware of its the glass itself. Exactly, thats why door glass and rear hatch have it as well. And thats also why its hard to get your hands on the raw glass for manufacturing our windows...

Ah ok. Yeah as long as we´re at least 10 people they gonna do a mold and start producing it. Then the options would be no heating or horizontal heating... vertical heating is possible but would require another tool been made, so here is the demand probably to low. Regarding tinting... atm they are trying to get a glass supplier for that blue glass. If they´re able to find the right thicknesses they will produce oem looking blue tint glass. If not we have to see what options we have. I should know more about that next week. And then they will provide a more detailed price too, as the one mentioned are only rough calculations.

What do you mean by rear screens? Never heard that wording S30 related 🙄

Hey guys, you might have seen my posts in the various facebook groups over the last couple of days, but finally I´ll post here too, after I gathered most infos about the commonly asked questions. I’ve a glass manufacturer on hand who will produce new glass for our S30 Z’s (2 seater) It will be thinner and therefore also lighter but still obtain all safety regulations including the E sign and also the DOT number. So fully street legal in Europe and the US including all necessary testing that goes with it. Some might think thinner means a weaker windshield and also a higher risk of damage due to stone chips or what not. I ask for a statement from the manufacturer which at least to me makes sense.... so due to the fact that it’s thinner it’s also more flexible and absorbs the impact better. As our cars are not relying on structure integrity of the windscreen, it also doesn’t change any rigidity of the car. Thicker and therefor harder glass is also more brittle. The windshield for example will be approximately 5kg lighter due to the reduction from 6,76mm to 3,96mm. We’re still looking into how to seal everything but it probably has to be glued into the window seal. Then we would still be able to use the standard gasket. But that’s also the case iaw the Nissan FSM, at least for the 280z. I’m looking for people who are also interested in new door glass and rear hatch glass as they have to build a new form for it. We need in total 10 pieces made to justify the cost for a form. The sides will be 3,15mm instead of stock 3,85mm. Same for the rear hatch window. Horizontal Heating will be possible in the aft one but can also ordered without heating. Vertical heating is still questionable due to low demand, probably. (another tool has to be made for "printing" it on the glass.) Prices are without TAX but including shipping in germany, for exact shipping quote send me your address via pm and I forward it to the manufacturer. Windshield: 390€ with 2x 1,6mm glass 240€ with 2x 2,1mm glass Still waiting on raw material for these ones... sadly...: Door and hatch glass: With 10 orders: 500-600€ a piece. With 20 orders 350€-450€ due to the tooling costs. These prices are very rough calculated as the manufacturer is still waiting for answers from their supplier regarding the blue tinted glass (like OEM) in the right thicknesses. So I hope they will go down by a lot. Should know more in that regard beginning of next week. Maybe it has to be clear, let’s see... Iaw the parts catalog at least windscreen and rear hatch glass are the same across 240/260/280z. Door windows have differences in the MJ, for now they would use a 78" 280z for the forms, I hope they´re able to use them for 240/260Z too, as the general form should be the same for the door glass, just the holes and the part which mates to the metallic window mechanism has another cutout... but lets see. Shipping and selling will be done through the manufacturer and is possible worldwide. Please comment for general interest. I´m only trying to get it going with the manufacturer. Let’s see if they actually start to produce it. Bigger group buys will get an additional 10-20% off. Alright, thats it 😄 comments welcome, please discuss the idea 🙂

Alright, so basically get rid of the whole stock ignition system. New coil and 123 dizzy - done. What is it about now with the 1 ohm, because sometimes 1,5 ohm comes up as minimum. As far as I found out the BOSCH RED has 1,2 without the extra resistor. Should be about right than and is probably one of the only parts I can actually get here in germany directly

Alright, the whole wiring loom is on the table anyway. So isn`t a big deal to remove some more. Proper coils like the Bosch RED 0 221 119 030? How do you wire up systems like msd 6al or the crane ones with the 123 - shouldn`t they be similar to the transistor unit already in the car?

Hey Guys, thinking of buying a 123 tune+, too. Is it possible to use it with the stock 280z transistor unit? Im converting to tripples so the injection system is gone. But Id like to keep the rest of the ignition system kinda stock so tach, and all the other integrated systems like the ignition relay etc. are not touched. The whole 1 ohm situation is just because normally you attach the dizzy directly to the coil and to limit the amps drawn, right? So with the stock ignition unit the cables from the coil go in the black box first and than two different cables are going to the dizzy. If I´m measuring over 1 ohm at these two cables (red and green) it should be good to go? Haven`t read about anyone using the 123 tune one a 280z. I´d just like the programmable aspect of the whole setup. Thats how its wired up in the stock form: The coil is between 0,84 and 1,02 ohm iaw the FSM, but as its going in the ignition box first the ohms between the red and the green cable should be the one over 1 ohm and the coil shouldn`t matter. Or what are your impressions on that? (Will measure everything on the weekend).

Still available - 100€, thats not too bad

Thanks I'll call my local nissan dealer next week, lets see. Than at least the gauge is working - the lamp is not sooo important. As the sender is mounted in the top of the fuel tank in a 78 280z its easy to mess around with it on a later state anyway

Fuel too expensive over here I'm always driving on fumes Haha, but my resistor is also damaged - I was hoping to fix at least one type of fuel "measuring" device. Still have to disassemble it, I guess a bit of bending and re soldering will fix the resistor of the float.

I´ve the exact same problem and as I´m in germany too I've no chance to get it rebuild. Do you`ve and update and would recommend that 1k ntc DIY thing. Which one you bought exactly?