Jughead

Sounds like a good plan. Definitely keep me posted!

Tirnipgreen I'm having mine retorqued on July 5th & will keep you posted. Honestly, the stance is starting to grow on me... !Mine's a "driver", so wouldn't want it lowered anyway. Also, I only have a few hundred miles insince installing the shocks, springs, so, who knows...stay tuned.

Other than that, I'm gonna try having the Control Arm bushings retorqued under load, though I'm not expecting much....I'll keep y'all posted

@Tirnipgreen Yeah your stance looks just like mine. I like your wheels btw. So, now I'm wonder if bigger wheels/tires would help. Again, I currently have 195 70R 14 tires on it. Thoughts? How could I find out what tire/wheel size would be optimal with out spending a ton of money?

@Tirnipgreen Send me a pic of your car to compare to mine. I'm sure we both just caught Z Source on "bad days" ...;)

Thanks guys - very helpful. The springs were represented as correct for a 1972 240Z. Can I be sure that different springs will give me a diffent height. Will it eventually sit lower with time/miles? Can I get a better look (i.e. less gap) by changing the tires? @DatsunZGuy: Thanks for the data point

Thanks all - very helpful. The springs I installed were represented as correct for a 1972 240Z, so needless to say, I'm disappointed. Can I be sure that the springs are the problem and that replacing them will give me stock specs? @jfa.series1: What springs are you running on your car (pictures)?

Hi All, I have a '72 240Z. I had my suspension rebuit last summer and now the ride seems too high. (It measures 3-4 inches - measured from the top of the tires to the bottom of the fender openings.) (See below for pics of Before & After the suspension rebuild. The snowy one is "after".) I had bought new springs from Z Car Source of Arizona. The guy answering the phone told me the springs were "stock" spec, and kind of brushed me off. (His number is now disconnected.) I also had KYB struts and all bushings, etc. from MotorSport installed at the same time. Everything else is stock. The tires are new too - stock size (195 70R 14). Questions: 1) Has anyone else had the same experience with or without these springs? 2) Will the ride self-lower with time? (I've put less than 200 miles on the car since installing the springs/struts.) 3) What are my options to get to stock? 4) AM I over thinking this?! Thanks much!

Thanks all. I just bought denso. horns and installed them. Not OEM, but i now have a working horn which is awesome!.

Hi All,= What is the procedure for bench testing horns out of the car? It's a '72 240Z. I bought 2 supposedly working, rebuilt horns from ebay and want to test them prior to installing. I tested both horns individually by connecting their spade connectors to 12.7 volts and grounding the mounting brackets. No sound on either. The connections are all very clean (by me) and I I measure 12.7 volts passing between the spade connectors and the grounds. What am I missing? Thanks!

Thanks gents. Answers to @SteveJ's questions: 1) Do you have an electrical or mechanical fuel pump? : Mechanical. I see a steady suppluy of fuel in the fuel filter 2) Do you have a heat shield over the exhaust manifold? Yes. 3) Have you thought of insulating the fuel line where it could get heated up by the exhaust?: I have not considered doing this because the car's been running great. The manifold is the original. 4) I'm going to hold onto the Tach - at least until the problem is sorted out. One more clue: Last night while test driving I noticed the that amperage gauge was occasionally swinging wildly. I've never seen that before. Full disclosure: I did install some LED dash lights the other day that I got from Datsun Garage...

UPDATE So I swapped out the Tachometers this weekend, and the Tach now works great. ( @SteveJ: You're right it was surprisingly easy (I'm 63 yo).) HOWEVER: Engine performance is still low. It seems to be better than it was before I swapped Tachometers, but it's still not good. With a warm engine and the clutch out, it take a long time to increase RPMs. Questions: Under the assumption that the replacement Tach is good, any hypotheses regarding what the issue might be? How would I check the wiring for shorts, and where should I focus? Thanks!!

I agree that it's super coincidental. Questions: How would a bad tach affect the engine performance as in my case (hypothetically)? Is there a way to bench-test the tach while it's still in the car? I have another Tach that looks to be in good shape. How would I bench test that one? Removing a Tach seems like it would be a major P.I.T.A. Is it? BTW: This is very helpful - thanks.

@Captain Obvious: I disconnected the black & white lead from the coil (+ side ) , and when I switch on the ignition, it DOES still peg to max. Thoughts?

@SteveJ The car is a 1972 240Z. (I've updated my signature - thanks for that tip!) Test results at idle: Green/White @ ballast resistor: varied but roughly 10.77 Black White @ Coil: varied but roughly 10.22 Black/White @ ballast resistor: varied but roughly 13.97 Re: the connector: Are you thinking it was never used for this car? (I don't recall unplugging it. and I don't have fog lights.) I can tell you that the green is hot (juts under 12V ) with the ignition switched on and the headlight switched on, so I like the fog light idea.