Nota280

The panel will fit a late build 76 to 78 280Z coupe. You will also notice the window crank mechanism is not in the same position.

Just happened to see this on the Merced Craigslist http://merced.craigslist.org/car/537262387.html

Appearantly not a rare item. 10 people were watching it and there were 2 bidders. Went for $20.50 to a person local to me.

Thanks guys. I was not sure if it was factory or not. Here is a photo of how it is fitted on a 70 Z on ebay right now.

This came out of a 1970 240Z parts car. I decided to put it on ebay along with some other stuff. Was this a factory part or was it offered as an aftermarket item? My impression was it is a factory part as I have seen them on other early model 240Z's.

If you are hung up on the 2.4 liter displacement thing, here is an option. There is a RB24SOHC engine that Nissan exported to the Philippine auto market. This motor uses a RB25 block with a RB20 crankshaft. Just throwing this out because I like to be different. I agree with your sediments about the thought of it no longer being a "240Z". Sticking to the 2.4 liter displacement with newer technology would have a cool retro effect.

I have a GS31 registered in California as a 1978 model. The body number on it is GS31017704. Originally it was White from the factory. The motor was an L20 with an automatic. The rear end was a R180 with 4:11 gearing. English information is in limited supply. Does yours have power windows by chance?

Try browsing through this forum on NICOclub.com http://forums.nicoclub.com/zeroforum/135 There are a lot of 240SX guys running RB20's. At one time I remember seeing a thread about fuel economy. Loads of performance related info in there as well. If they get decent performance in the heavier 240SX, think of how much better it would be in a lighter Z?

Check the fuel pressure between your filter and the engine. You can get a test kit from Harbor Freight Tools. Are you sure the fuel pump installed was for fuel injection? Carburators do not need the high pressure as fuel injection. The relay Stephen is refering to is under the drivers side on 75's. It is mounted up above the ECU. Kind of a pain to reach. Sounds like the fuel pump side is working. There should be a ground to the chasis next to the battery. Take it off and clean the connections. On my 75 I added an extra lead to the negative battery cable to. This is the ground point for the ECU. Check that ground connection first.

Try this. 1. Pull the black cover off the AFM 2. Turn the ignition to on 3. Inside the AFM rotate flap mechanism Do you hear the fuel pump turn on? Also check to see how the bypass starter button was hooked up. 1. Disconnect the solinoid (usually a small yellow wire) starter wire. 2. Turn the ignition to on 3. Press your ignition start button While pressing the button do you hear the fuel pump turn on? The AFM has a safety circuit to shut off the fuel pump when the motor stops sucking in air. Durring starting, power is direct to the fuel pump. Once the motor starts, the AFM completes the circuit to the fuel pump.

Today I was at the CA DMV. I just bought a 1990 300ZX. Kind of the same situation you have with your Z. One guy sold it to another guy who then sold it to me. There was no title, an application for lost title was provided by the first owner. With a purchase price of $1,000 for sales tax purposes, back fees due on the lapsed registration, and transfer of title and registration to me, the total was $209. I asked the lady about your situation. She said in order to give any kind of temporary permits, you have to pay the fee's they determine. As long as there are no outstanding issues, it should run under $130.

California will want to collect money. As to what is needed in your state for title and registration, sorry I can not help there. Perhaps they would take the CA bill of sale and title transfer? I can tell you California will not give you a temporary red tag unless all fees are paid. Plus they usually ask for proof of insurance.

Download and print these forms http://www.dmv.ca.gov/forms/reg/reg343.pdf http://www.dmv.ca.gov/forms/reg/reg135.pdf Fill in all the information on the reg135 form of the person you purchased it from, not the owners name DMV has on the title. You have a choice of finding the person who sold it to you and have them sign it. Or just sign it with their name and forget about finding the guy. You have the original title and posession of the car. Take that form and the title with you to California DMV. If it is not in the DMV database then they will want to verify the VIN. Hopefully there are no leans or back fees due on it. I went through this same process a few months ago with my 75 280Z. Previous owner bought it from someone else and never transfered it.

Here is a site to check out. http://www.tomitaku.com/index_work.html

BuDavid, If you find a 240Z or 280Z on the Sacramento area Craigslist, I can check it out for you. http://sacramento.craigslist.org/

I drive my 78 280Z on a daily basis. Does it snow in Racerville?

Look at his feedback. Perhaps he brokers in his spare time or is reducing his personal collection. He recently sold a RX-7, a Formula Firebird, and a Corvette.

I do not see why $3,250 would not be a fair price for it if it is as you describe. Arne also makes good points.

Perhaps a G Nose would help.

Funny you should mention strut mount insulators. This is what happened when I first jacked up the 75 I have. It was amusing to see the 3 insulator bolts still attached to the towers.

He has been parting that one out for a while. Lots of stuff has been sold in the past few months.

Get a 280Z and replace the front end with the 240Z style. I did it with my 75. The 240Z turn signal lights look much better than the 280Z in the grill type. At least in my opinion. Never was much of a fan of the stock 280Z front ends.

Hey Stephen, So 76 280Z coupes manufactured after 8/76 were the larger style tank? Just curious as to the time when they switched to the tanks found on the 77-78's. Also did the 76 280Z 2+2's get a simular tank switch? I know for sure the 77 -78 280Z 2+2's had the space saver tires.

It will fit JDM Fairlady Z's up to the 78 model year. Definetly will not fit U.S. model 280Z's late 76 thru 78. My 78 Fairlady Z's tank looks like it.

Do not forget to add the hinges. $225.00 from Bad Dog. http://www.baddogparts.com/ Here is a site where they are supposedly going to import kits. No mention of hinges in this kit. http://www.zccjdm.com/catalog.php/azcarbum/ct17002 By the time you figure in shipping from Japan, the craigslist kit could very well add up to $2000.00.