Broman

Interesting. Does anyone have a pic and/or any dimensions of this insulation?

My existing (original) arrester belt (above the front snout of the diff) seems to be in good shape except for being a bit stiff and dirty. Is there any trick to help return some suppleness and flexibility to this?

So looking at the back of my otherwise very clean vapor canister it has some "stuff" on it that looks like contact cement. Seems to have brush strokes. But nothing was adhered to it. The front side (facing inboard) is free of this stuff. Anyone know what this is from?

I need help identifying some 240 front bumpers. The lower (rusty) bumper came off my 240Z. I bought the upper (clean) bumper at a swap meet but now see that the attachments to the bumper brackets are totally different. (The circled holes are for the over-rider.) The lower (rusty) bumper has the inner mounting studs 30.5 inches apart. The upper (clean) bumper has them 33.5 inches apart. And the license plate brackets are also drilled differently. The rusty one seemed to be original to my May 1971 240Z and fit perfectly. But what the heck is this upper one from?

May 1971. I dug around and found the original, old rusted-out one from may car...one drain hole. So sometime between 5/71 and 7/76 they added a second drain hole. Also, my 5/71 tub did NOT have a heat-shield on the side. Here's a pic of a later tub that has the second (rear) drain hole and a heat shield. I wonder when this change was made.

So what Is the factory color? I'd really like to find the PPG paint code for these.

The hinged lids of the 240Z attach using the outer pairs of tapped holes. But why do both doors have this extra pair in the middle? I have seen pics of brackets bolting here for the 1977 and later false floors, but why were they on earlier cars?

Regarding the deep (full-size) spare tire tubs, I have seen two differences. 1) Some have one drain hole (fwd) and some have 2 (fwd and aft). 2) Some have what looks like a heat shielded welded to the side next to muffler. The question: what is the date of these changes? Before I weld in my salvaged tire tub I wanna make sure I have the correct one.

Aha!! Many hours later... Once properly shaped, the piece is perfect! But as-delivered the shape was quite a bit off. Perhaps it warped in the Colombian sun before shipment! "Patience, grasshopper"

Other than KFVintage, what do y'all think is the best fitting/most accurate dogleg repair panels? KF makes some fantastic panels (some panel more fantastic than others) but I just can't come close to getting them to fit with the KF ones I have. Looking for folks who have install experience with other panels.

Does anyone have a source for this rubber/foam seal for the fender inner wing. It seems it will likely push out the fender slightly and I want to have it installed before I get more picky with panel fit. It is what is attached here (thanks to Geezer for the stolen pic!) Nissan has discontinued it, but I imagine someone here has found suitable material somewhere. Thanks in advance.

After cleaning out the Bondo, I gauged the hole with a (drill bit) to be 5/32 (0.156"), which is a bit too small for a standard .177 pellet or BB. But interestingly (well, to me) is that the clean fit of the drill bit shows the direction of travel. The shot came from slightly fwd and above the door. Almost as if someone stood next to the car and shot. With something. Just another mystery about this car.

Whatever the projectile, it had enough energy to punch a clean hole thru the outer skin. No hole or dent on the inner metal panel of the door, but if the window glass were down, that would explain it. Now I need to take a look at the data code on my passenger door window and see if it matches the car!

I did some digging in the material oozing thru the hole and it turned out to look like simple filler. So it seems to be later damage that was just filled. What had me suspicious was that the impact that caused the divot did not deform a larger area. Physics suggests this was a rather high-speed projectile that cratered and pierced the door rather than something pointy that fell against it. Oh well, just gonna fix/fill it and get back to more serious metal issues. 🙂

While fighting door gap issues (separate thread) my attention was re-drawn to this odd divot on the passenger door: It was clearly filled before paint, but blasting off the paint and filler exposed it. Here is a close-up There is no deformation outside of a 3/8" radius. This small but deep divot seems machine-made, albeit a mistake. And the divot had a hole in the middle that was filled with some factory material that looks identical to the bonding adhesive used inside the door. Here is a pic what the backside looks like: Anyone have any insights here?