ZMunkey

I thought it was time for an update... The paint is going on to the car next week. The bodywork isn't perfect, and probably never will be but I can't wait any longer. I know that Motorsport Auto has their event coming up in April in Orange County and I REALLY want to go and race this darn thing soon! Anyone interested in sharing seat time in exchange for help towing this car to a few NASA or SCCA events? Eric

Fast and affordable racing... Body finished in primer gray currently but is about to be painted "Corvette Yellow" unless someone speaks up quickly. New front airdam, new polyurethane sway bar bushings, 2 sets of wheels and tires, 1 w/Kumho V-700 Victoracers, 1 w/ BFG street tires for auto-x events (or practice). 6-point cage with halo bar, Kirkey aluminum racing seat, RJS 5-point harness, extinguisher. Motor is a 240 block with a 280 crank (a stroked 240) as was often done in early z cars. Comes with original motor in good condition for vintage racing. Also comes with 5-speed transmission. See photos at http://users.i10net.com/eeiken/240z/240z.html Would make a perfect Auto-x car or Track Event car. Affordable parts, affordable fiberglass panels if you want to make it even lighter. Rust-free and completely solid in EVERY place you'd worry about on a Z car. Was an AZ car, now housed in the SoCal desert. Asking $5000 or best offer as I have a child on the way and probably won't be able to get this car on the track. Eric

Reasons, reasons, reasons... Well, Ron, I might end up divorced soon and wouldn't get to keep the car anyway... In that case, having the money before the divorce would let me pay of bills. AFTER... hmmm let's just say that I probably wouldn't see any of it. I'm not giving up on the auto-x thing just yet though. I'm now driving a 2003 Mustang GT which, after I "massage" the suspension a little (ok, a LOT) will be a very quick car. It's already very fast, just needs to have that rear axle tamed. Figured out I'm not the sort to trailer a racecar anywhere from Blythe... its just too dang far! Eric

Take your time, Ron. I'm in no hurry... There is a guy who, if/when he comes up with the money is going to buy it for vintage racing as a back-up body for his current car. I guess there's not that many rust-free/non-wrecked cars still in the western area. I'm working a 2nd job and don't have time for this, but if the money keeps rolling in, may just drop it off at the local body shop I'm friends with and tell them, "I don't want it back until its glossy white again!" and bite the bullet on the cost. Let me know if there's anything you'd like a closer look at and I'll shoot it with the camera. Eric

If you send me an email address I'll send you a zipped file of all of the photos I currently have. Photos cover exterior, cage, suspension, engine, etc... Too many photos to post here. Eric

You can email me at porschemunkey@yahoo.com... Eric

1973 240Z race car... Set up for SCCA or NASA on-track events, time-trials, or auto-x. Full, 6-point cage, detachable steering wheel, seat harness, Kirkley aluminum seat, fire extinguisher, Weber carbs, coil-over spring suspension, Koni race shocks, welded-in camber plates front and rear, built stroker engine, header and 3" exhaust, fuel cell, battery relocated, interior eliminated, 4-speed transmission and (I believe)R-180 rear end. Comes with original dash (vin plate), original motor, 5-speed transmission, 4 Kumho Victoracer V700 tires on 14x7 rims and 4 new BFGoodrich Comp TAs on 14x7" polished Slotted Mags (that's the look!), 2 mufflers (one is brand new 3" straight-through, the other 3" to 2.5" step down), a brand-new, never been mounted black urethane front spoiler (w/air ducts for brakes), both side windows and window mechanisms, Jetting kits and rebuilt kits for the Webers (not needed) and misc other new small parts. Life has gone in a new direction so I'm going to auto-x a daily-driver, not this dedicated track car. Currently the car is being completely repainted... Could be done in your choice of color if you act fast. I'm looking for $5000 or best offer for this rust-free race car! If interested email me or call 760-922-7121 during the day and ask for Eric Eikenberry or 760-922-6929 in the evening. Car is in Southern California and can be delivered via trailer to NV or AZ.

I've got DGVs on my 73 240 racecar, with a 6-1 header and a slightly built motor (I'm not sure just how built yet). My impressions are this: 1. Buy a book on tuning Webers-invaluable material, and you'll know more than others... 2. a DGV carb with both barrels open *should* flow more air and fuel than an SU... its a 68mm opening vs a 40mm opening, right? That's more air in my book 3. No one on this list thinks a race car will run well with the DGV carbs... 4. A DGV should only see 2.5 to 3 PSI of fuel pressure! This, evidently, is critical to preventing the fuel from overflowing the float bowl and leaking into the throttle body, causing all sorts of driveability and fuel issues. 6 Webers on a V-12 Ferrari will run on 2.5 psi, as long as there's enough fuel flow to back it up! 5. Don't just install a honking big electric fuel pump and clamp the return line like my previous owner did to raise the fuel psi at the carbs! 6. I'm installing a 2.5 psi adjustable fuel pressure regulator, a return line T fitting with a flow jet installed to prevent too much flow from returning to the tank immediately, and an in-line fuel psi gauge to measure exactly how much pressure the carbs are getting, and all new fuel lines. I'm going to cap the return line from the fuel rail above the motor. No sense in sending hot fuel back to the tank! I will probably construct a fuel rail heat shield out of aluminum, then polish it like my valve cover (I'm a nut for that stuff!) I think they (Weber DGVs) look *very* tuneable, both for low speed and high speed operation... the trick is to realize that the "idle jets" control the extra flow of fuel at the venturis when the throttle plates are barely cracked open (because fuel won't flow at the main jets yet-air speed too slow to pull the gas out). Bumping up this flow prevents the "weak spot at 3000 rpm" that everyone complains about when the second throttle plate begins to open. The other trick is to make certain that the "air correction jets" are sized properly for high speed operation. If not, the engine will run progressively leaner as rpm and air flow through the carb speeds up. Yet another trick is to increase the size of the primary and secondary main jets, which simply increases the flow through the mains (as the throttle plates come fully open). Now the primary is *smaller* than the overall single-barrel SU carb it replaces, so you should want to adjust the linkage to open the secondary butterfly a little sooner than 3000, but its going to depend on your motor and your cam. Since DGVs also have an "accelerator pump" similar to a Holley carb, you can up the size of that orfice too! That would give you an extra shot of gas when you suddenly whack the throttle wide open,! Much better for making mincemeat out of lesser cars at the line! While their ECUs and sensors are still trying to figure out how much air is flowing into their cold-air intakes, you'll be happily steaming off into the sunset. Believe me when I say that my car revs VERY fast! A couple of caveats... 1. My racecar hasn't won an event yet (I haven't taken it to an event yet) so my advice is still theoretical... Many many championships were won by Ferrari, Porsche, and the others using Weber carbs though... 2. I'm still in the process of rejetting mine because the previous owner (who built the car) installed over sized "air correction jets" thinking that they were the main jets... Instead of making the mix richer at WOT, it is becoming dangerously lean... hence his comment "Race gas wears out plugs fast." Its not the race gas, its the mix coming close to detonation, burning too fast and too hot... 3. If you buy nothing else, buy a Weber book FIRST, then call Pierce Manifolds 2nd... They were terriffic at helping me out. Doug there deserves a standing ovation! MUCH better service than REDLINE! Any questions, don't hesitate to ask

What would the displacement of a built 2.4 (early block) if someone installed the diesel maxima crank? Does anyone know? I've heard of this as a mod that was done long before 2.8 longblocks were readily available. I'm just curious as to what that would make the motor do. Eric

On my lowered racecar, WITH the spacers between the strut and the balljoint, the 14x7 Slotted mag WILL rub on the tie rod end hard enough to prevent the car from rolling! The previous owner installed about 3/8th" spacer plates between the wheel and the hub on each side to space the wheels out far enough to prevent the contact. I don't like this set up so I will be moving to 15" wheels when I auto-x or race. Eric aka ZMunkey

I *might* have a good one in this 260 Z I'm getting for misc parts for my 240Z racecar. Tank may need a good cleaning, but it sure won't be rusty out here in Blythe, CA! That's close enough to phoenix to be worth it. I'll have to let you know if/when the owner finds the keys for me... Eric aka ZMunkey

Hey all, I need a 3.7 or a 3.9 rear end diff for a 240Z Solo-II car I'm working on. I think I've got a 3.54 diff now (or what ever was stock on a 73 Z). Let me know what you've got. SoCal or Phoenix locations would be best. Thanks Eric aka ZMunkey

Hey! I live in Blythe, CA which is just down the road (south) of Lake Havasu City by about 90 miles or minutes depending on how you drive. I also work at a Chevy garage with plenty of lifts I can use. I also own a pretty nice digital camera for underneath shots of those trouble areas... If the seller doesn't mind the drive to Blythe, bring it on down and I'll inspect it for ya! Eric aka ZMunkey

Motor: 2.8 crank, 2400 block bored .030, 272/272 cam, unknown compression ratio, unknown pistons. recurved mechanical advance distributor, Accel super coil (big yeller mutha) and Mopar "orange box" ignition controller (whatever benefit that brings). Weber 32/36 DGV manual choke carbs, soon to be rebuilt and tuned to match the motor's power curve (air correction jets are WAY too large right now). I figure its a high-compression, 2.6 liter by the way it revs... and it revs QUICK! Sounds more like the porsche race motors I heard a Willow Springs last summer... ZMunkey

I ask, of course, out of great respect and reverence for the opinions of the group... you know... Munkey Z, Munkey do! Zeemunkey

I want to know what those of you with mildly built motors are running for a muffler, and on what size pipe? I'm looking at Auto-x events and I need to make my non-muffled car 'neighborhood friendly' I currently have an unknown header 6 into 1, 2.5" back to the rear diff, then a 3" S-pipe (non mandral bent) to snake through the rear suspension, followed by no muffler at all. Too damn loud! It does make mechanics grin like idiots though. I can get Flowmasters from Summit racing with a 3" in and out. Do I need a muffler than comes in High, Center, or Low, and does it need to exit High, Center, or Low to go out the stock valence hole? I've already read the tips about downturned pipes on the end, and will add a 45 degree tip to turn it down. Thanks for all of the help! More pics to be posted soon! Eric aka Zeemunkey

Since I'm working in my garage, I'm trying to limit the gas fumes to avoid "spousal annoyance"... I don't want to have to cut the line, traipse down to the autoparts store, fiddle around with the various sizes, saunter back, and find my wife screaming at me with a clothespin over her nose!

Engine bay lines...

What's the original size of the fuel hose used on the 240Z (1973) and what's available that I can substitute? Thanks Eric aka Zeemunkey

After much research, counting turns on the gears and checking to see if the synchros were steel, I've come to the conclusion that its actually a 77-81 720 truck transmission, box #1 specifically. The gearing is almost identical to my 73 4-speed, but it adds a .78 to 1 overdrive 5th gear. This will work better for my needs for Auto-x so I doubt now that I'll sell it. Needs= low 1st and 2nd gearing with a 3.90, and I still get good top end speed for track work with the OD vs. 1 to 1 4th gear. Thanks everyone for the help! Eric aka ZMunkey

Hi all... I need to get a spec sheet showing the "stock" settings for a Weber 32/36 DGV setup for a 260-sized motor as a baseline for repairing the poor jet selections made by the previous owner of my race car. Presumably, this should occur BEFORE I lean the motor out too far and burn the dang thing up! Its a 2400 bored .030 and stroked with an L28 crank (maybe an LD crank?), E-31 head, N36 intake, 272/272 crank with unknown lift, unknown compression ratio. It *will* run on 91 octane and but prefers race gas. At the moment it runs waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaay too rich at idle and up to 3000 (which it really revs to extremely fast) but just loses a ton of horsepo'r past 3500. Won't break the tires loose even when stomping the gas in first (not dumping the clutch, I haven't tried that yet). I've got a book on Webers and two Redline Jet-pac kits, but without knowing where I should start, its hard to just begin guessing. Thanks Eric aka Zmunkey

Ok, got some photos of my primitive Z racecar up in my gallery area. Check it out and let me know what y'all think about this little go-fast buggy. Eric aka ZMunkey

I've got a NISMO 5-speed, number NMCD 2# for sale, best I can tell its the option 2 box which has a tall 1st gear (the same gearing as 2nd speed in the standard 4-speed 240z box), then decently spaced 2-5 gears, with 5th being a 1:1. 2nd gear is very close to 1st. 1st gear is on a dogleg pattern to the left so that 2-5 is a standard H pattern, very trick! $700 or trade for cash and parts listed below: 1 early hood with hinges (must be straight and dent free, paint not a concern) 1 rear hatch 70-73, w/glass, seal and lock (or at least lock) also must be straight Toyota 4x4 front brake calipers 3.70 or 3.90 rear diff and related parts necessary to install Alternator mounting bracket(s) All of this is going on a track car so I really just "freshening" the car for my purposes. If you want this trans, email me and let me know what you've got. Thanks Eric aka Zmunkey zeemunkey@yahoo.com

I need left and right outer door handles. If you have them, email me with how much. Thanks Eric zeemunkey@yahoo.com