MM569457

I’ve adjusted the floats to be lower. And cleaned the fuel bowl. waiting on new gaskets to be delivered.

Uggg. Because roadkill.

Could you adjust PSI on a mechanical pump? I’ll check the needle and floats

One step forward, three steps back. Drove round the block to test it out. Came back and inspecting the engine I see droplets from under the car. the carbs are leaking fuel. After about 10 minutes it stopped. Seems to be around the area the intake mates with the chrome baffle for the air intake.

This is about 45min to an hour after the car ran, it’s warm but getting colder.

Tried again.

Ran the car for 10 minutes. Checked the ohms with two voltmeters. no readings. I changed the wires and checked the grounds. Started the car again and it crept to the 120° and then went back down. Radiator is of course hot to the touch.

I did, it showed resistance.

Guage started working, raising the temperature gauge. Then it dipped down to below 120 with the car running. I’m sure it’s a bad sending unit. IMG_8050.MOV

With the gauge direct to ground. with it running, it shows resistance but the guage isn’t reading

Found the channel. Going through the steps now.

Twice Pipes arrived a day late. Going to take to a muffler shop to fabricate. The muffler will need some tweaks to be mounted vertical due to the rear bumper.

Had a friend stop by. Engine tan for 10 minutes. Smoking, but we figure it’s not engine related and most likely dust/ceiling insulation that fell into the header heat shield over the last 15 years while garaged. Temperature gauge isn’t working, but he had a thermal gun and was able to determine it stayed roughly 176°. troubleshooting shows the Guage works, and the sensor has resistance and should theoretically work, but while car is running the gauge doesn’t move.

The first real wash since the 90s. In the end, paint has a few areas of cracking but in decent shape. Will see how a wax will go to remove blemishes here and there. twicepipes arrive tomorow.

I’ve been slowly rebuilding/restomodding my 280Z. I only have to have exhaust mounted and some tack welds in the rear sway bar. im looking into twice pipes, but would a traditional set up be better for the Rebello? I’m not well versed on exhausts. Any insight would be appreciated. IMG_7616.MOV

Looking into exhaust. Not sure which set up I want to do. Videos on YouTube don’t seem to do justice. I’m looking into twice pipes.. I know I’ll need to fabricate a reverse collector for it if I go that route.

So to recap. Dad bought a “71 240Z about the time this 280Z had issues starting up. I figure an ignition relay went bad within the EFI. He daily drove the 240Z until 2004 when the engine was smoking very bad. Dad gave it to me and my intention was to drop the Rebello stroker into it and restore. The car had issues as you can see. Ended up selling it to a friend (all parts I collected for it, was going to go BRE styling, but I kept the Rebello Stroker) who still has it, albeit its now a V8 conversion. When I returned to the states in 2008, I got a 1992 300ZX NA. When everything works as it should, it’s a GREAT ride. But once something goes wrong, it’s not so great. the ZX to me was a mantainence nightmare, but I still loved it. The only reason I sold the car was to finance the 280Z dad finally gave me.

Now I’m looking into an exhaust. Wish I knew the header make.

Been a few years since I drove clutch, slippery concrete in garage, and my wife found it humorous to film. IMG_7739.MOV

Move the car out of the garage, first time since the 90s it moved under its own power. Moved 2 feet forward so I could test the reverse before I went too far.

Thanks for the heads up @Zed Head, luckily I had a simple fix: the wires connecting the the switch under the rubber grommet were disconnected. I have reverse lights now.

I’ll get to it. Draining the old gear oil. Virtually dry.

At the transmission.

At the transmission.

Seeing how there is a real possibility of the car being registered and driving…. I’m looking at safety features. Windshield wipers work, but the fluid pump is cracked. I’ll try and JB weld to fix, but it seems it would work if not cracked. i think the reverse lights aren’t working because the wires are switched. When I stop the leak on the clutch hose and replace the gear oil, I’ll double check the wiring.