MM569457

IMG_7616.MOV

Figured it out. Mr Gasket low PSI fuel pump could not push fuel. I bypassed it completely and routed fuel to the mechanical pump. starts like a champ now

mechanical pump works. Used a water bottle to draw in fuel. may bypass the electric fuel pump altogether IMG_7613.MOV

I’ll try in the morning. I’ll bypass the electric pump completely and try with the mechanical pump along. Currently both pumps are on the fuel line.

Keep the container higher than the fuel pump right?

Where would the strainer be located? If it’s clogged, how can air be able to get through?

It doesn’t fill from gravity. no fuel is coming from the tank. I figure some would dribble out. there is gas in the tank. Putting an air hose through the sending line results in air coming out the filler hole.

There doesn’t seem to be any fuel in the fuel filter. I’ll run air into the tank and see if I hear bubbles.

How the pump is wired. I’m going to grab an air hose and try and clear any obstructions.

I’m wondering if the the lack of a pressure regulator (not present) is the cause.

I have both electric and mechanical in the line, plus a filter near the back tank

I tried to fire it up tonight. starter fluid into the carb had it running for a few seconds, but no fuel is making it to the fuel filter in the engine. the lines were cleared when I worked on the fuel line last. Wonder if there is a blockage now.

Lighting issues are fixed. Turned out the grounds weren’t grounded on the turn signals. IMG_7482.MOV

Let’s try this again.

Ok, the last reply was short due to frustration. the radiator I purchased leaks. It sucks but atleast Im only out $179. I asked dad what was wrong with the old OEM radiator, he said it’s bad because it’s old. I took it to a radiator shop for an inspection. $80 later it’s been cleaned, inspected, painted, and pressure tested as good to go. I’ll be putting it in.

Put in radiator fluid. Radiator leaks. Another setback.

I wired the aftermarket fuel pump, bypassing the OEM wiring altogether since it’s powered by the now-absent ECU. I ran wires under the car along the fuel lines, zip tied them down and ran through the engine bay. went ahead and grounded the negative to the chassis, and moved the positive wire through the firewall hole where the EFI wiring used to be. I’ll mount the relay in the old ECU housing with an inertia switch, but it is currenltly connected to a bolt behind the pedals. Pump activates when ignition turned to on and I’d assume “start”. I have a few last minute cleaning items to finish before turning the engine over for the first time.

Correct, my father stated he never messed with it. It appears to be in order.

Installed the appropriate alternator

Yea I use this thread to document the process. I’m probably going to print it out once it’s all done.

Were you the one giving advice on the other forum? Lol

Removed the transitor ignition unit and taped off connections.

Once this alternator is squared away….. I’ll wire the fuel pump. Then I’ll see if it will turn over after fuel and fluids are added.

Updates: Lighting…. Some issues I’m believing comes down to relays. A relay under the passenger seat is causing the parking brake light to stay on. Dad told me he had that issues before he garaged the car. Front Side markers are intermittent, and when hazard lights are on both front signals turn on opposing each other, not simultaneously. the alternator is no good, returned it. Waiting on Napa to bring in the correct one (hoping the parts system for them is correct). wired the ignition coil, cleaned up the resister, and connected the distributor. It is a pertonix distributor so I went ahead and bypassed the TIU and Terminal block, connecting the distributor direct to the coil. Slow going to say the least.