MM569457

I just got the 280Z dyno’d today. The Rebello was expected to run around 300hp, but no lower than the 280s range. it came out with 180hp. It was tuned in April, and still runs rich. The technician said the timing seemed off and it didn’t like the pull in 4th gear at higher RPMs. any ideas on how to get it to 300hp range?

Cowtown Z Club is kinda dead. I’ve never seen any updates.

Jeez they are just nasty

Good Evening, I am currently hot and perturbed in Texas. my 1977 280Z doesn't have AC, (all under hood components except copper fittings have been removed). I still have the heater core and evaporator installed under the dash. I'd like a sanity check, I'd like to install a new condenser, dryer, and compressor under the hood. Air Conditioning A/C R134A Kit 260Z 280Z 74-78 | Z Car Depot Inc appears to have all the underhood components. As the car was R12, I'd convert it to r134. I know I'd have to sanitize the evaporator from all R12 oils and residue. Expansion valves are non-existent, and I'd be making a gamble going this route when adding 80% r134 into the system. Am I missing anything, or would it be better to replace my evaporator with a vintage air at this point? I did manage to remove the copper fittings this evening. Thanks in advance!

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It has been a few months since I have updated, but been very active working on the car. The original gas tank was saved, cleaned, and installed back onto the car. I am no longer having to change fuel filters every tank of gas. I upgraded the stereo from the 1980s/1990s pioneer radio dad installed to a retro sound unit with new speakers installed in the back and under the dash with mounts from motorsport auto. Ive attended a few carshows, and the car is running strong. Side note, my son bought back my old 300zx from the guy I sold it to.

It’s been a bit but have a few updates. I took the original tank that was plugged and had it throughly cleaned out. the tank on the car was worse off than I could ever imagine. I cleaned it out in 2019 prior to install, but I’m guessing moisture got into it and caused really bad rust. I removed it and installed the original tank after it was cleaned. I upgraded the dash lights to LEDs. I learned 77 models had tachometers wired incorrectly, which you’d discover with LEDs. I had to rewire the connectors the correct way for the LEDs to work. Work to do: 1:. new radio, looking into vintage sound. 2. Body work, fiberglass repair/repaint 3. AC, looking to go the R12 route as all under hood components were removed and seems to be more economical that $5k upgrade to R134.

Correct I got vintage tank solutions and s30 world confused

Update: been busy to work on the car. Last two weeks did a few things: had the Carbs tuned. Unaware to me, rebellos are happiest at an idle of 1200rpm. While driving, it can creep up to 1600rpm, but overall the average is 12-1400 at stop signs. Mechanics say per rebello this is normal. it was discovered during time up there is now a fuel starvation issue, possibly with the pickup line in the gas tank. The gas tank was cleaned before I put it in, but it’s full of gunk (car sat for another 3 years before running fuel and starting up). I noticed it going on the highway, it bogs down in 5th going about 60mph. I have a spare gas tank that is currently being cleaned out, if that’s no good I’ll probably get one of those S30world plastic tanks.

I have not yet. I’ll level it tomorow.

Debating. The car is jacked at the front with a 45° angle. At this angle for the past few hours, there has been no leaking. It’s safe to say it’s parked for good now. I’ve been quoted by Godzilla Raceworks for the repair at about $950 with labor. Really don’t want to pay that kind of money, but really don’t want to pull the transmission out either. Gonna see what the options are if I do it myself. I was going to get the carbs tuned this week before garaging for winter then this was discovered.

I do see it’s wet in these two areas, where dust cover connects into the engine black. Additionally, may sound dumb, but the oil pan wetness I understand is motor oil. If it’s gear oil, could you explain how it could be? I am still learning.

The oil has a slight gear oil smell, but not as pungent (I figure due to small amount in finger). the clutch slave isn’t wet at all, nor do I see any leakage. As for the oil pan, do I understand that’s gear oil?

I took a look under the car. I see oil seeping through the oil pan gasket, and gear oil seeping through the bell housing where the transmission mates with the engine. at this pint I’m pretty sure seals and gaskets need to be replaced.

I drove the car earlier today and noticed the oil under the car. I always thought it as the crush washer from the oil plan not being replaced, but I noticed gear oil pooling where the bell housing and dust over meets. I have noticed once the car is warm, it is difficult to shift into first gear at times, and it has grinded in 3 occasions. any ideas what I would need to replace, and if this is the reason for the difficulty getting into first?

Installed a front sway bar I got off a guy from S30 World on FB. Already noticed a significant change in handling. currently investigating the pop sound when I kill the engine. I think it may be a backfire, and I think the car is running a bit rich. IMG_1462.mov

I found a possible solution. Autoacsolutions.com. A but priced, but it appears to have everything I would need. https://autoacsolutions.com/products/ac-kits/add-on-air-conditioning-heat-and-defrost-air-kit-with-integrated-controls-for-75-76-77-78-280z/ I’ll need to see if the dial switch can be switched for a 280Z slide lever.

Ok, suffice to say my best bet is to replace the evaporator of going with the Motorsport set up, or go with vintage air, bearing in mind additional fabrication will be needed (fresh air inlet plugging, etc.)

Good afternoon! since getting the Z road worthy this past spring, I’ve debated installing A/C in the car since, well, because Texas. My father removed all the components from under the hood, and the remaining original HVAC components are located under the dash. He didn’t take global warming into account in the 90s. I’m looking through the FSM right now, but I’m debating weather to replace the under hood components from Motorsport auto or go with vintage air. 1. What considerations do I need to go over, and what steps should I follow through? 2. what advantages does Vintage Air have over replacing the stock components. thanks in advance!

Finally back stateside. Dug through the old part boxes and found an old interpart mount I could use. Had to beat it with a hammer, since it was a bit beat up on the metal mount. The louver is back in the car. its 105° plus weather in north Texas, I’ll be looking into A/C for the car. Looking at vintage air. Drove to work yesterday, and I got a door ding. Not to stressed, I’ll probably be wrapping the car eventually

I'll get back to checking it out. Currently out of country. Car is under stored under a car cover with battery disconnected. I was told it could be a mini-misfire.

You mention sway bar…. The mounting brackets broke and we removed it. Wonder if that’s the culprit