MM569457

Took the time and used Vice grips to help remove the exhaust. I’m keeping these two clamp/connectors so I can put the new exhaust onto the car.

Focused on installing the interior door panels today. Parts came in! The door panels needed a bit of TLC so I used plastic glue to secure the peeling leather trim. I tried to tape the interior trim due to peeling chrome…. But wasn’t working with the masking tape. I soft sanded the chrome trim down and hand painted the chrome silver. I think it came out ok. Passenger door handle is broken. Waiting for a new handle and lock to come in to do the repair. I’ll do some more research to see if the linkage is salvageable.

Minor setback: brakes are being a bugger. im guessing I didn’t tighten the brake lines to the BMC so it leaked into the engine bay. I’ll have to repaint. Not a big issue. as for the bleeding, I’ll have a mechanic friend come over with his tools to help bleed the brakes… this car is DRY. moving onto installing portions of the interior. I have door panel assemblies coming in for the driver door. I’ll need to repair the passenger door handle, the linkage is broke and I’ll need to hunt down the part. I did find a bra lol

New seat installed, I plan on parking in the sun to buff out the wrinkles. tried working on the master cylinder again. Now I can’t even bench bleed it in the car.

It’s new. I heard from a mechanic I may not have properly bled it first

Replaced the drivers seat, or at least tried to. did try to bleed the brakes today. I am getting no break fluid to the rear drums and while pressing the brake pedal I hear a loud “whooshing” sound from the engine bay. im guessing there is a leak somewhere? If so how would I troubleshoot?

Much appreciated! I’m getting close to dropping the engine. Going to remove all the emissions parts and clean out the engine bay.

You can’t tell by the e-brake picture but the rod is slightly bent…. Made it more of a chore adjusting the handbrake.

I went with Mr Gasket. I bought it in 2018 when they weren’t available (oem) and installed it. I’ll give it a try. It’s 4.5 psi so it should work with the carbureted engine that’s going in.

Wired the aftermarket fuel pump. I had to adjust the crimp connector to take the wire from the positive connector. I used electrical tape to insulate…. I will probably use a better method later.

Adjusted the e-brake this morning. Less play now in the handle.

Jacked the car up. Applied penetrating oil to the underside of the E-Brake. Going to let it sit overnight before I hit it in the morning.

I’ll take a look at that when I get back. Ima bout to be gone for 3 weeks. Bringing it to my house helps now I can tinker 30 min here and there, as opposed to spending half a Saturday across town. Plus I have more workspace in my garage than before. Gave the car a light wash. It definitely will need a good compound and wax. Some areas of the fiberglass is cracked, especially where the spoiler meets the hatch. I probably will get a fresh paint once it’s all done, and will probably remove the spoiler and mount at separately to prevent chipping there in the future.

Interesting question I have. The Nissan Motor key always unlocked the steering wheel. I have another set with a Nissan motor key that worked. Both Nissan motor keys used to work. There is a spare “non-Nissan motor key” that unlocks the steering wheel. the Nissan keys were good to go until yesterday. Any ideas?

Moving day. The car needs to be moved due to the house having foundation issues in the garage, plus safety concerns doing further work with dropping the engine on the inclined driveway. Long story short, I may need to tighten the emergency/parking brake… it had too much slack for comfort during the move but seems solid when parked. it’s now at the house waiting for further work. Not a fan of the HHR btw.

The interior is all there, in pieces in the back hatch including a new drivers seat cover.

Dad says it’s for fog lights/driving light install later(he never got around to it). I’ll probably going to install driving or fog lights in the brake ducts of the front spoiler. Need to find ones that fit the duct size.

Haven’t posted pics of the interior yet.

Took the baffle plates off to cut down and reinstall later and installed the front wheels. The dust caps were hammered down to make room for the previous American racing wheels. It’s good to move to my house next weekend weather permitting.

Thanks! I threw down penetrating oil on the bolts. I’ll wait a few days. I’ll probably remove them, put the brakes on and reinstall them after they’ve been trimmed later down the road.

I tried to install the S12+8 calipers after in installed the new rotors and backed the bearings. they don’t fit, it seems the backing plate is too small to allow the calipers to fit. should I just cut them down to allow the calipers to fit?

From the Z-store: Note that as with all Konig Rewind wheels that we offer, the center caps are slightly too short for the front bearing caps. To run these Konig center caps in the front of your early Z-Car, the small, metal factory bearing caps must be flattened slightly (less than 1/4 of an inch) to allow room for the Konig center cap. i mispoke, not shaved. They do already seem flattened. Not sure if mine are normal or not

Had some warmer weather. Swapped out the driver-side rotor. With Konig rewinds they say the bearing cover needs to be shaved down a quarter inch…. Does this cap look like it’s already been done?

Snow weekend in Texas. Too cold to do brake work. Did put new wheels in the back and tested the drum brake e-brake. It works, I didn’t mess it up too bad rebuilding them.