Zaspen

I had to go look and see if a bracket was actually installed and it was. Somehow the owner had an extra one. Im learning a lot about 280Zs as I reassemble this beast. Thanks!

Great info! This car was converted to a factory AC car so the first piece must be left over from the original heater box. The tank collision idea makes sense. Thanks to all for the help!

Thanks for the info! The suspension one really confuses me but I guess it has a purpose. I still cant find the location of the first one. Engine bay makes sense but I can't find it!

Im reassembling a 78 280Z that came to me in boxes and I have two brackets that I cant find locations for. Please take a look at the pics and let me know if you know where these parts belong on the car. Thanks!

I did end up getting it but thanks a lot for looking.

Thanks for looking. Do you mind measuring the inner diameter and the hole spacing on the bracket? How much for the bracket and a 5 wire resistor?

I've taken on a restoration on a 78 280Z that was partially completed in 2000 and Im attempting to finish it 22 years later. Im missing a few parts and hopefully someone may have these.. As of now Im looking for: Blower resistor for AC car with 6 pin connector Linkage from bellcrank to EFI rod at firewall Vapor canister clamp Please let me know if you would be willing to sell these parts. Thanks!

JTO- The fix I mentioned in my post worked perfectly. It just takes a few parts to get there. I never found anything else that worked. Let me know if you need the extra translink bushing inner collar to make spacers. I should hopefully have one. I did replace the rubber insulator mount and I got it from Nissan. I believe this mount is used for several years ours included. I can probably dig up the part number if I look at my receipts.

Thanks! Its a blast!

I had a similar problem and it was caused but a leaky intake gasket. Spray some carb cleaner around where the intake meets the head and also where the carb meets the intake. A change in RPM indicates a leak.

Here are some final pics of my pumpkin build..I finished it in June and spent a few weeks chasing leaks and dealing with a head issue caused by my engine guy. Everything is now as it should be and I'm enjoying driving it!

For future reference I did figure something out for these bushings. The outer transverse link rubber bushings have the same OD and length for the body of the bushing. The inner sleeve has a bigger ID but the original crossmember inner sleeve fits perfectly inside the new bushing, The new bushing also has a slightly shorter sleeve so you have to make that distance up with a spacer. Luckily I had some old transverse link bushings that I was able to pull the inner sleeve and cut to size. I should have taken some pictures but I was pushing to get it done and the tranny in.

Thanks for the info on Precision shims. Looks like they can make what I need

Thanks for the links. These places seem to have stock thickness but nothing else near that. I will call them and ask anyway

I just started my motor with my rebuilt head and once it heats up it sounds like someone is beating the valve cover with a hammer. I reused the cam, rockers, and lash pads since my motor guy said they were in good shape. New valves, guides, and seats were installed. I took a look inside and first found that they had three rockers in the wrong spot (per their engraved numbers). I also saw no markings on the lash pads so I'm guessing that they just put them wherever. I looked at the wear pattern for the three swapped rockers and nothing was centered. I want to replace (or regrind) my rockers and get new lash pads but I can't seem to find where you get lash pads near the stock thickness. I'm guessing based on my wear patterns on the current rockers I'm going to need to get different thickness lash pads. Does anybody know where to find lash pads near the stock ~ 0.120" size?