Zaspen

I had no luck with my local Nissan dealer today- oh well. If I need to work with my current fenders I will need to by the patch panel for the lower half of the fender. Has anyone seen a panel to replace the inner brace? One fender's is pretty rotten and the other was cut out during a previous "repair". I did find a a fiberglass one which was interesting but I need good old fashioned sheet metal.

zKars took care of me!

I'm not too far from canada. I'm going to call a dealer over the broader and see what they say. Roadtrip!

Does anybody have any of the 6mm Philips/hex head door striker bolts they would be willing to part with? I need four bolts in decent shape- like the one in the pic. I'm getting anal with my restoration and I'd like the "correct" ones. Thanks!

I'm also going to try to call a Canadian Nissan dealer over the boarder from New Hampshire. Perhaps I can go on a road trip.

I may call my local Nissan dealer on Monday and see what they have to say.

All of the online Nissan places I usually buy parts from show them as discontinued. Is there a trick to getting them? Do I need a knowledgeable parts person at a local dealer?

I have the shell of my 240 at the body shop and I need to make a decision on the fenders. The right side has already been patched on the bottom and has a decent amount of rot and the left side is pretty much junk. I've been looking at possibly just getting replacement fenders but i'm not sure if anything out there is good. Z-car depot has fenders listed but they also state that they may not fit right. Ebay also has fenders but I'm guessing that they are the same as the ones Z-car depot sells. Z-car source offers "refinished" fenders which appear to be used fenders that they did some work to. Any thoughts? Thanks! Also- (poor quality) progress pics!

All good info. Thanks

@motorman7 thanks for the info. This would explain why the fuel rail I bought from ZThearpy was very corroded on the inside and under the rubber caps that were on the ends. Do you think there is any way to cap off cavity devices? Obviously the rubber covers used by ZThearpy didnt work so well. I've been in contact with Sav On Plating and they seem easy to work with. I read in this thread about how you bent the fuel rails into 48x48" max sizes to get plated. Did you do this at SavOn? I didn't get the impression that they had a tank that big. I was told if it fits into a 5 gallon bucket I should be good.

Great thread with a lot of great info! I have a plating related question. Did the plating process ruin any rubber/plastic? Did the vacuum advance still function after plating?

Thanks for the replies. I think I'll see what they look like after blasting.

All the amazing restorations on this site gave me the bug to make mine "like new" again. The various posts have given me a lot of good information but I still have several questions- most are probably rookie/stupid questions! I have the car down to the shell and I'm getting things prepped to go to the body shop for some rust work and new 918 orange paint. My question of the day is about the various rubber coated wire hold downs. Do these just get painted and then bent around the harness post paint? Will this cause the paint to crack? When they media blast the car will the rubber tab covers get destroyed? Thanks!

Diseazd- FWIW my car was purchased in Newport News originally and lived in Williamsburg for a long time. Still had rust though.....

Those are some good looking cars- including the lime one! Am I wrong to use the spare tire area as a location for the correct color? It just looks pale there but the pics above don't look pale at all. Perhaps one of you can take off a fender and ship it to me so I can take a closer look!?

My 240 was originally 918 orange but was resprayed Ferrari red before I bought it. I want to change it back to the original orange but the paint in the engine compartment and interior don't look so exciting. It could be the fact that the car is soooooo red that the original orange looks boring against the red. I'm wondering if anyone in NH or Mass has a 918 orange Z I can look at in person. Any leads would be greatly appreciated!

I can't say enough how awesome this forum is and how helpful everyone is. I look forward to the day when I can actually answer some questions rather that ask them!

Thanks for all the info. I swapped plugs and the high speed miss went away so that's nice! I did have a problem with the curvature of the float tab on one of the floats. It was to rounded and ended up hitting the needle more on the side then the top. I did my best to straighten it out.

Good Carb info- thanks. I'd say that it pretty much in line with what I've done but I never tried so set the mixture at a fast idle (2K+)

Mine would be a 72 with US emissions so the numbers match what I'm seeing. Thanks for the chart!

I will have to try lower RPMs up a hill with the vacuum advance disconnected. I havent checked the mechanical advance besides seeing the timing advance. I will do that. I saw it advance to 50 while revving it with no load- is this invalid? I added extra timing marks to get to 45. Plugs only have 500 miles on them but they did get pretty carboned up with the Holley on there. I will try new ones. Thanks

I set the floats this weekend using the 10 turn down method and it runs pretty well at lower RPMs. It idles good and pulls well up to about 4K and then starts to break up. It will rev up to 7K fine but just breaks up along the way. I thought it might be lean but it behaves the same way if I have the choke fully on. I also noticed that the timing was advancing from about 10 BTDC to around 50 BTDC at higher RPMs. I thought it could be detonation so I pulled the vacuum advance so it would only advance to around 35 BTDC with the mechanical advance but no change in the break up. I suppose it could be ignition so perhaps I should try a coil, cap/rotor. It has a Pertronix ignitor in place of the points. Interesting note is that the plugs are brick red when I kill the motor under load at around 2K and a little lighter if I kill the motor at 4500. I'm running 87 octane with a lead additive for the valve seats.

Thanks for all the float info. I'm going to try the 10 turn method over the weekend.

I measured the floats using the clear tube method and the fuel level is 23mm below the bottom of the float lid (where it meets the gasket) for the rear carb and the front is at 28mm for the same measurement. I've read a lot about 23mm being the correct level but am I measuring it from the correct point? I'm assuming they both should be 23mm? The front carb had a lean backfire a few times. I suppose this could be the reason.