Zaspen

I'm in the process of converting my 72 240 from a 4 barrel holley back to SUs. I've read numerous articles on the pros and cons of heating the manifold and I think since I live in New Hampshire where every morning is cold I want to heat them. Ideally I would have the manifold heater thermostat that was used on the later 72 models and beyond to avoid the potential issues with continually heating them. Anybody know where I can get a thermostat and the associated piping? I'd like to think I could get an old one to work again with some TLC. I found a part number in a different forum for a possible alternate but it looks like it is no longer available. Any thoughts / ideas are appreciated!

With the exclusion of the floors/firewall all the metal I have replaced showed no signs of problems when looking at the undercoating. It was only when I started poking around that I found rust. I expect to find more as I scrape more. I never have used a paint gun so I would have to figure out the correct primers and paints. How would I get the bottoms of the floors if I can only get the car off the ground about a foot? It seems like I would have to angle the paint gun weird.

I'm looking for some advice (like I often am) related to painting the underneath, inner wheel wells, chassis parts of my 240z. I don't want to strip the entire car it bare and repaint everything so I'm looking to paint the underneath relatively assembled. The entire underbody of the car is covered with undercoating excluding the upper and lower frame rails which I just repaired and the floors which I just replaced. I plan to pull the chassis parts off and remove all undercoating and treat/repair any rust I find. I'm just a little stumped how to proceed. If I sandblast everything I suppose I can get a paint gun and go to town but then I risk getting the body covered in paint. Is there something I can brush on that doesn't look like...well....brushed on? What works well on the chassis parts- crossmember, tranny mount, control arms- etc? I know its not technically correct but I'm thinking of doing everything in black. To make matters worse I covered all my latest frame rail/floor repairs with POR-15 and it looks horrible and non of the edges of anything got covered. Any thoughts? Thanks.

I hope mine looks that good!

Is the general thought to get the pans in then fab and install the firewall patch panels or the other way around?

I like the 90% thought! I guess I just need to be creative and not expect perfection. Thanks for all the replies.

Thanks for all the tips. The one thing that stalled me the most today was the fact that it seems like the pan was made to "low". If I line the top of the pan's rocker flange with the top of the original weld surface then the bottom of the pan is about 3/8 of an inch below where the rail is and then the pan has to bend up to reach the rail. I'm compensating by cheating the flange up about 1/4". It bugs me because it doesn't seem correct. Flange part way up "C" channel on rocker Bottom of rocker side of the pan is part way up the original weld surface but yet the pan has to bend up to get to the rail. Is this normal?

I've started my floor pan project and I have three questions about fit. I have the Zedd Findings pans. 1. It is doesn't fit around the tunnel where the transmission mount bracket is. I beat it a bit with a hammer but I'm thinking I may need to cut a slot there. Is this normal? 2. It seems like the pan is not centered quite right. If I have the outer lip (opposite tunnel) in the correct location the support rail "bump" in the pans is not centered with the existing rail. 3. I left about 3" of the old support rail. It seems like the old pans may have been curved up at the front because only the front lip of the pan contacts the rail and there is big gap at the back. I uploaded some pictures that show the rail issues. Pan not centered Curved floor pans? Any thoughts would be appreciated!!

I'm looking for some recommendations on the best adhesive to used to install the diamond / pleather trim material. I'd like to know what works but will also allow the pieces to be removed in the future. I'm replacing the floors this winter so I have to remove a few sections like around the tunnels and the rockers. I also plan to paint it in 2020 so I want to be able to remove all the pieces again. Any thoughts? Thanks!

I'll be using a gas shielded mig. If I butt weld and my welds have pinholes will seam sealer make everything Waterproof?

I'm going to replace the floors in my 240 over the winter and I've read as many old posts on the topic as I can find. After all that reading I can't figure out if it is better for me to attempt a butt weld or overlap a bit and weld a lap joint on the inside of the car. I'm a novice welder and while I plan to practice a ton before I start I don't want to take on a butt joint if I have little chance of success. I'm also wondering if I do a lap joint do I just weld on the inside of the car? Do I then fill the seam under the car with a seam sealer? How far should I overlap the new pan with the old metal? I'm looking to get the ZF pans and rails. Any thoughts/comments are appreciated, Thanks!

I guess I have a bigger issue than just the knob. My entire choke lever and cable assy was missing so I got one on ebay and upon inspection it isnt correct. Im guessing its from a 260z. If anyone knows where to get the lever please let me know!

That looks exactly like the 70-71 knob I got from ebay that doesn't fit. Perhaps they just look the same have different mounting styles. If you have one it better shape great but if not that one would work fine. Thanks!

7tooZ- I sent you a PM about the knob. Thanks

Does anyone know where I can get a choke handle for a 72 240? I can't find one anywhere. Thanks!

I though about that a bit. Im going to head down that path this weekend

When you immediately press the gas pedal just a tiny bit (when it dies) the accelerator pump isn't really doing anything yet. All the pump cams have a very similar initial rate so I'm not sure if that will help but its on my list anyway. I read something about immediately off idle is the point when the carb transfers from the idle circuit to the transition circuit and that can be lean if the butterflies are too open at idle. I just wish I has a stock set up!

Quick update. The Holley carb was way out of tune and the secondaries weren't even opening. Its much better now but still has a slight stumble when you first touch the gas but I'm not sure if its lean or rich. And this was supposed to be easier to tune then the SUs????

I was thinking something similar so I plan to replace the cap/rotor, plugs and wires with good stuff. In addition I found the air mixture screws on the carb were not set equally- one at a 0.5 turns and the other at 2.5 turns so it makes me think I need to make sure the carb is set up ok. Thanks to everyone for all the help!

The receipt says its the 8007 Holley that is recommended by Arizona Z Car. The accelerator pump looks to be spraying fuel fine. I did pull the plugs to take a look and found some odd stuff. The cylinder 1 plug looks fine, 2 and 3 are extremely carbon covered and 4, 5 and 6 have moderate carbon. Not sure what this is telling me quite yet.

Stock L24 engine. Per the service records / previous owner it had plugs/cap/wires and a valve adjust in the last 5K miles and it has an electronic ignition installed. I still need to verify the timing and also compression.

I just picked up my first 240Z in 20 years and this one has a Arizona Z Car intake with the Holley 390 CFM 4 barrel carb. The car has a noticeable stumble off idle and a lack of low end. It seems to do OK at higher RPMs but it seems sluggish compared to what I remember my old Z to be. I've read a lot on this site about the AZ/Holley combo and it seems that some love it and some hate it. Are there any tuning tips for this set up? I have no experience with the holley carb so I don't know where to start. Previous owner said it has been performing that way since install. I would like to put SUs back on but its financially not in the cards now. Thanks for any help!