MH77280Z

Any tips on making sure there is no air in the coolant system?

Car has been running perfect, no issues with the oil pressure. Whats the concern about oil pressure with the dash out? just no optics?

Guys, I have my dash out, will there be any issue if I start the car without the dash? I mean I need to test the new water **** and that nothing leaks before i put the dash back in. Blower and blower housing is also out. The car will be in neutral off course. I cannot think of anything, dash only has the gauges etc. rest of the harness I have not touched.

This one from the non functional clock. Say: LIFE12V34W

You are right. I looked at one from the inside and say a green dome. Pulling the bulb socket from the back - it is a clear bulb.

May be you are right but my car is pretty stock with a 50 year old dash. Took it out this weekend and all bulbs are green. With the exception of ones in the center console. But center console was taken out and work was done on it by the previous owner. So they might have been green originally. Anyway whatever suits your taste is what matters. I like the green accent as it gives these older cars a more warm vibe.

Factory color was green though.

I will check, they might re-manufacture the current one or can point to someone who can. Meanwhile I found one through craigslist in a decent shape, arriving this week.

Mine is 77 and it is a bit different.

Any idea guys where to get the two water hoses, one is a U and other is kind of odd L shaped. I have a feeling mine might be reusable, i am pretty sure then water droplets were from this water co*k. There is plenty of rust on it and might have some pitting which was leaking. I have a spare one which is much better shape which i plan to install tomorrow and run the car to check for any leaks.

Plus there is another temperature operated valve next to it, like one was not enough.

This thing was quite a work. I avoided the nightmare as the two screws holding this too the heater core were rusted like hell. Luckily with some penetrating oil and patience they came off.

Hey guys, so my dash is all ready (pending clock restoration). Windshield weather strip and this water **** are the only two jobs i need to get done before putting the dash in. What is a good sequence to take this one out as it leaks when i put the car in heater mode. Hopefully there is still vacuum (in think there is as i can move between hot and cold). During hot it leaks very small drops, good enough to rust my floor. Problem is my new carpet is also installed. I am thinking remove the pipe from the engine and let the coolant drain as much or should i drain from under the radiator? Once that is done, put a ton of towels under this thing and carefully take these pipes out and let the heater core drain in a bucket or something? what u guys think?

Water **** is totalled with rust

I am mainly looking to upgrade the gauge lights and the one near the AC / heater controls and also in the center console (transmission and cigarette lighter bulb). Are they all same size? (just asking i am sure this info is available in the FSM). Want to know the groups experience.

Found it in the FSM. Guys, while the gauges are out do u recommend changing the bulbs? they are a bit dim. Any recommendation of a plug and play bulb which will not add any extra load on the electrical system but a bit brighter?

what is the best way to take these out? Just pull out?

Decided to just decouple the turn signal switch and it gave enough room to lift the dash. Took only Speedo cable out from the back. Didn’t had to take any tachometer wires!!!

Do I need to remove these 4 bolts holding steering column to firewall?

Guys, dumb question ... do i also need to unplug the harness around the steering column for the dash to slide out? After removing the two steering column bolts the column has hardly moved. Is this because of the harness around it holding it in place? also, are there any bolt near the driver and passenger kick panels apart from the two facing upwards? I am done with: - remove center console - remove windshield finisher 4x screws - remove front instrument panel (also removed 2 screws holding the bracket for two center air ducts) - removed 6x dash bolts near firewall - removed 4x bolts near trans tunnel (2x each sides) - removed 2x bolts facing up, one on each side near the vent manual lever - removed 2x 12mm bolts holding steering column @Av8ferg Here are the bolts you’ll need to remove. Just did this job. All are 10 mm except the steering column. -6 near windshield under finisher. A 1/4 socket wrench with short swivel extension worked best . - there is one bolt on each side near kick panels. One next to hood release, screw upwards towards roof. And same on the passenger side - 4 (2 per side) where the dash frame bolts to trans tunnel - Speedo cable (what Captain Obvious said) - 2 x 12mm bolts holding the steering column. They help lower the column so you can get the frame clear. - your probably hanging up right around the steering column. Where those two 12mm bolt screw into. It’s a flat plate that the dash frame has to be lifted over. The dash comes out easier if you rock the bottom upwards towards tje windshield and the up and out . Don’t forget the 3 wire harness connections that going in to a panel in the passenger side firewall.

Got it, yes i agree it is a thin piece of metal. I will cut the rubber around it so that it just lifts up on it own. No prying of this.

Once the rope is channeled in the rubber on the bench is it hard to fit in the grove while u pull it out? any gotchas? or just firmly position the windshield down and slowly pull the string out. Is it doable in the first try or did u make multiple attempts. I am a bit nervous taking the mirror ON and OFF again etc. May be overthinking!!!

@Patcon warp what?

Hi Guys, is the $60 weatherstrip for windshield at ZCD a good fit? they also have a $400 OEM version. Whats the difference and is it worth it? later is backorder. What about installation experience? anyone? can it be done with the dash still ON? my last item on the list is windshield moulding. It is holding but center trip as come off as it is brittle. How hard it is to take the original one out. Remove the left and right trim from the pillars and push the rubber out? There is a good installation video here though:

Looks very nice … I was thinking the same but got lazy before they powdered it. Getting the powder off is a pain. It is a pretty heavy layer.