Everything posted by MH77280Z
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HELP: Rear red lights ON and no power to starter
Yes the voltage was tested at ON. I have not replaced the ignition relay. I do expect a used one coming in next week. let me try measuring the voltage coming into the relay. As I suspect it is ignition relay causing issue.
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HELP: Rear red lights ON and no power to starter
Tested voltage to ground at on and start at this black white wire in the white connector - left bottom wire and seeing nearing nothing like 50-60 milli volt on the meter.
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HELP: Rear red lights ON and no power to starter
Where is C4 located @SteveJ
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HELP: Rear red lights ON and no power to starter
Let me get back on this…
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HELP: Rear red lights ON and no power to starter
The starter solenoid is good - it is original and rebuilt from a reputable shop. There is no voltage at the terminal to the starter.
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HELP: Rear red lights ON and no power to starter
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HELP: Rear red lights ON and no power to starter
I tried in N and it didn’t work.
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HELP: Rear red lights ON and no power to starter
I have not bypassed the seat belt relay. How do u do that? jump the black/yellow wire? Asking because guys here dont mind sparking đŸ˜ƒ
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HELP: Rear red lights ON and no power to starter
Its a 77 280z A/T
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HELP: Rear red lights ON and no power to starter
My previous starter issues got solved with a new ignition switch. But I have been seeing some funky behavior with the ignition relay for a while like i mentioned above.
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HELP: Rear red lights ON and no power to starter
I tried on N just now again and have tried it at every other position as well and I just keep getting that click in the ignition relay that's all. Previously when it used to work sometimes intermittently it used to do it but then on 1 or 2 tries it used to start. I think the ignition relay just gave up.
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HELP: Rear red lights ON and no power to starter
I had to edit the post. I connected the remote started between two big solenoid posts. And while ignition ON, I pressed the remote starter and also touched 12v to the solenoid pin and the engine cranked perfectly like it was before. Removed everything and the car is idling. I think the issue is down in the ignition relay i think.
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HELP: Rear red lights ON and no power to starter
Dumb Q: if u jump these two terminals will it actually activate the plunger in the solenoid? I mean if it bypasses the solenoid the plunger will not activate and will not let the starter make contact with the flywheel etc.?
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HELP: Rear red lights ON and no power to starter
OK that means both nothing to do with the start up issue i am having. I am planning to take the starter out and bench test it. Before I use a different ignition relay. I just bought one used hopefully working ignition module from ebay.
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HELP: Rear red lights ON and no power to starter
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HELP: Rear red lights ON and no power to starter
Tried a new ignition module today and exactly same condition. Nothing. Is there a way to test the ignition relay near the passenger kick side panel? I do hear sound of clicking there. But not sure if it is ignition relay. where to check the voltage behind the solenoid terminal?
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HELP: Rear red lights ON and no power to starter
When i turn the key the ignition relay does click, so i am assuming the power is getting from ignition to the relay. How much I dont know. Last time it came out to be the fault original ignition module not sending enough power. Let me try putting a new one and see if it behaves any different. I did check my fuse block too and all fuses seems ok to me.
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HELP: Rear red lights ON and no power to starter
I had issues with slow cranking so I changed the Ignition switch and with a new battery things were normal. This was 1 month ago. Couple of days ago when i parked the car next day this started to happen. No power getting to the solenoid at all at this time. I have double checked the battery and it is fine. This happened overnight only. I have ordered a new ignition switch again and it will be here by Fri.
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HELP: Rear red lights ON and no power to starter
It’s a new ignition module which I installed 1 month ago. Can it go bad so fast?
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HELP: Rear red lights ON and no power to starter
Guys, tested the voltage from pin connector on solenoid to battery ground while i tried cranking through ignition and there is no voltage getting there. I unhooked the seat belt and when i move the key to ON i do hear a buzzer and after putting the seat buckle back in the buzzer goes away, so i assume the electrical connector at the seat belt is not a problem. Do u think it is the seat belt relay in the engine compartment? I have also tried tapping the solenoid. TOTALLY LOST GUYS>>>
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HELP: Rear red lights ON and no power to starter
Upon manually pressing the brake light switch the lights does go off. I do see some plastic on the floor and a hole in the brake padel lever where the switch pressing when u release the pedal - is there a replacement part to fill that hole gap? Also, i did check the battery and it is fully charged and it does not what so ever crank the engine. Like I said i parked the car overnight and it was cranking up fine. Cannot thing of thing that can go wrong overnight. While ignition at start i should see 12v at the solenoid wire signal terminal correct? I can probably start from there. Any other advice?
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HELP: Rear red lights ON and no power to starter
Do u think it can effect current to starter? I am not able to move the starter at all.
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HELP: Rear red lights ON and no power to starter
Hi Guys, i parked the car last night and all seemed to be fine. Today when i tried starting the car the starter did not engage. Mine is 77 Auto and seat belt is engaged and i also have a new ignition mod and like i said it worked last night no issues. I noticed when i took the key out, the rear red lights kept ON. Played with the brake pedal a bit but no effect. I had to disconnect the battery for now. Where should i start? somebody seen this before?
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What are these 3 blue wires and a switch 77 AT
Guys, saw this switch connected to these 3 blue wires while cleaning under dash. Anyone knows what this is?
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Hot/Cold knob not moving
What about the two hoses in the pic. I think changing those would need all coolant drain first correct?