MH77280Z

Hi Guys, My car has been running fine for the last over a year since I cleaned all the fuel lines and gas tank etc. New fuel filter also at that time. Recently there was a leak in one of the small fuel injection hoses on the fuel rail. I replaced it with new hoses (2 of them). Now when I start the car it cranks up fine but after few mins it seems it is starving on gas and tries to pull back and sometimes die if I dont keep the RPM at 2K with a little throttle. Once it warms up close to normal engine temp it can idle normally and I have driven it well over 50 miles at 70mph and no issues. Any idea whats going on?

Yeah the package has 2 small studs and 4 longer ones. Smaller probably like you explained and longer ones on the front to hold the fan thermo clutch. I got it. I ordered the 5 stainless bolts from ZCD today as well.

Dumb question as I have not looked into the engine bay around the water pump. I received the AISIN pump and the gasket has more than 5 holes than what you are showing for these 5 bolts. What are the other holes for?

Seems like Aisin WPN013 is recommended in some other prior posts as well due to its cast iron impeller. I will probably stick with that. Available on Amazon.

Is it Kameari-Japan? ZCD says this Aisin is same pump Kameari sells? https://zcardepot.com/products/water-pump-new-japan-240z-260z-280z?_pos=5&_sid=aa67b32da&_ss=r

Gates is a good name and price is great. Did u install it already? Is this something easy DIY?

Guys, another hick up...my water pump is giving up. Recently hearing noise. ZCD has few different pumps. Which one do you guys recommend? they mention cast iron impeller does it matter? will cast iron not corrode? what does the original pump use? Need guidance ...

Let me connect on pm

What about this @kcpope: https://zcardepot.com/products/glove-box-lock-clip-oem-240z-260z-280z?_pos=25&_sid=1782842c3&_ss=r# @Terrapin Z you have any used ones to sell? i can take one?

Guys, i am hitting another issue. The ZCarDepot do not have the retainer for the hatch lock cylinder. It is a bit thicker than the door ones. Is there some other source or alternate product? They do have a 240z door lock retainer which seems a bit thicker but I have not tried it. Appreciate some help ...

Sorry seems like 56/57/58 are what connects the bracket to the inhibitor switch, for me this is intact. The other side of the bracket has the bushing missing in my case like @Terrapin Z has shown in pic. Thanks for sharing the part #.

Yes #18 connecting into #56 via 57/58. I think I am missing 57 small rubber thing etc. without it the rod moves around and introduces a play.

Guys, there is a metal rod under neath that connects the transmission lever to a metal bracket attached to the inhibitor switch. There is a play in my AUTO trans lever and when I checked underneath the place where the rod connected to the inhibitor switch bracket has some sort of washer that is missing. Any idea how to secure it tightly so that it wont wiggle? the play is due to this wiggle.

Thanks. Do we need to drop the steering column to pull the dash out? Do you have any thread of your dash build out? 🤔

Using existing metal work and also gauges is fine. Does this come with pre-drilled screw locations etc.? I don't want to deal with that for sure.

Guys, What is the feedback and fit for this product on the 77 280z. Would really appreciate? https://vintagedashes.com/products/datsun-280z-reproduction-dash Also delivery and order placement ...

Ready to go in. Mono radio speaker connectors. Don’t have original antenna so plan to put a toggle switch hidden under dash. Wiring for the original antenna is there.

Calling it a day. Seam sealer was good enough for some cosmetic adjustments. Felt is attached with double sided tape.

That's why i ended up using black seam sealer from Eastwood (its strong and flexible) as the crease was relatively small. It looks decently flat and matches the color (no need to spray). I plan to put a felt liner inside to cover it.

I was thinking about plastic weld but this piece is already attached on the outside with JB Weld. Inside the crease seems to be no more than 1-2 mm. Thats why i feel bondo might be a better option as it wont mess up the plastic around which plastic welding will and epoxy is very hard to sand after it is set. Will spot test this product and will report back. https://www.walmart.com/ip/Bondo-Glazing-and-Spot-Putty-00907ES-4-5-oz-1-Tube/16927984?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=0&wl13=5435&adid=2222222227716927984_117755028669_12420145346&wmlspartner=wmtlabs&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=501107745824&wl4=pla-306310554666&wl5=9032151&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=8175035&wl11=local&wl12=16927984&wl13=5435&veh=sem_LIA&gclsrc=aw.ds&&adid=2222222223716927984_117755028669_12420145346&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=501107745824&wl4=pla-306310554666&wl5=9032151&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=8175035&wl11=local&wl12=16927984&veh=sem&gad_source=4&gclid=CjwKCAjwuJ2xBhA3EiwAMVjkVCb3MAiZZ7fniP_GEnK1Ce8a0edcONIymlO-a23xqCLkPsh0skynYhoCztIQAvD_BwE

Yes, donor was pretty heavily damaged in other places plus mine also has a lid/armrest to cover this pocket which i have taken off for now. Donor didnt had the armrest.

The fiberglass single layer is strong enough for this application. I am thinking to just mask the inside and use a bead of bondo to close the gap instead of plastic weld which is a messy work. Light black paint after that. Any thoughts?

Finally found a donor. Here is some progress. Not an excellent fix but coming along. I was able to put a JB weld on the outside while keeping it taped on the inside so that it does not spill inside. Seems like it worked well. Now planning to use a heat gun to melt some plastic and even out the surface in the inside and probably some light black spray coat. I am also planning to put some fiber glass strips on the outside underneath where it starts to crack mostly to avoid future damage. Will keep posted.

I have the original AC compressor and it looks like in a decent shape. Is there a reliable place where these can be rebuilt? I am planning to grab some R12 from a guy locally and use that. or do u guys recommend putting R132? also i would need condensor and receiver drier. Where to get those? Also is it a DIY job to remove the compressor etc. and put it back? Would really appreciate any guidance. My heater works fine. The 2nd owner had the AC switch wire near heater control pulled off to keep the compressor disenageged.

Guys does this even fit a 280z? how do u insert? If u insert with the beveled edge towards the door handle it does leave a bit of space from where u can see the pin. Is this the right way? Other way it just flushes with the handle and u cannot see the pin. originally I did not had these and got the handles off easily as there was more space. Just wondering if anyone used these and after that it is easy to unpin the handle again.