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MH77280Z

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Everything posted by MH77280Z

  1. Planning to take all front body parts off for powder...including hood/front fenders.
  2. Today finally steam cleaned the under carriage and glad to see all good under coating, no rust and most of the oil and buildup was around trans and diff. Got it nice and clean. Left the engine alone! It runs flawless idles great and don’t want to take any chance. I am thinking of keeping stock setup for now. tomorrow I am gonna move the balance weights inside and put on the stock hub caps etc. will share a pic later again. For now here is the shot …
  3. With stock 5in and 15mm offset as mentioned in the FSM, i am roughly 2.5 + 0.5 = 3in over the drums from the hub surface. Now if u put 9in on the rear with 0 offset that would be 4.5in over the rear drums. Approx 1.5in more on the inside towards my current strut setup and would be 2.5in extra out towards the fender. Which i believe I have the clearance on both sides, unless I am missing something. Plus I plan to go 15in diameter vs current 14in that would safely put me over my stock brakes. Thoughts?
  4. My 77 FSM says stock wheels are 14 x 5.5 (aluminum) and 14 x 5 (steel) both comes with 15mm offset. Tire size 195/70/R14 - the ones i have. May be it can support other tire sizes but this is the only in the FSM. Does it mean a 0 offset new wheel would a bit too far away from the struts? like a 15 x 9+0
  5. Dumb question guys...i bought the cheapest tires 3 years as we were working on the car on stock rims. They are 195/70/R14 - does this mean current rims are 14" diameter and 8" wide? (195mm is approx. 8"), is this how u read this? And 205 vs 215 also probably fit a 8" wide rim? so whats the difference?
  6. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jj6mf6_NzCM The car profile @2:00 is what i am aiming for. With 0 offset it doesn't stick out too much? This setup is running 205/50/R15 and does seems to fit under the stock fender. I do want to stick the tires out a bit, but not a lot. I like the 205/40/R15 even more ...
  7. I have narrowed down to 15x9+0 rear and 15x8+0 front. Anyone has this?
  8. Friends, I am thinking 16x8 with a negative offset without using any flares as I dont want too much modification to stock body. Can you guys share your pics with specs please?
  9. Hey guys, can anyone recommend a good reputable caliper rebuild service? Mine is 77 auto.
  10. I cannot find the part number for the vacuum co*k and water co*k for a 77 280z. Can someone help me? Also what is the purpose of putting a water co*k after the vacuum co*k? both seem to be inline with water coming into the heater core?
  11. I have been seeing coolant - not too much - on the passenger side after some running. It is not too much but cannot put the new carpet in… manual says take the glove box out and then blower which is more accessible then. the two hoses which I took pics seem fine but very worn and drops are coming from the top. I suspect water **** or vacuum ****. I need to see them before making a call but there is surely rust there. Are these two easily available for a 77 280z?
  12. What is the recommended rear diff oil wt for warmer climates? the 75W used in most cars here in CA seems to be more towards colder side of the spectrum based on manual. Anyone here in CA using 85W?
  13. Hi Guys, So my next big project is cleaning and rebuilding suspension steering. Everything from shocks (I assume springs just need blasting...) bushing, tie rods. Does 280z have a rack in the front? I am not looking for anything expensive and trying to stay close to OEM specs so not looking for super expensive rebuild kit. I have also heard that rubber is better than polyuth as i don't drive aggressive. Would appreciate you guys sharing details what you have done and where/what to buy.
  14. pm'd you. I appreciate your offer.
  15. Hi Guys, so i know this has been discussed a gazillion times. I have been running DRIVEN 10W-40 Conventional and so far so good. It has great wear protection/ZDDP. Just wondering how many are running 20W-50? Temp in CA in summer gets over 80F routinely and I was thinking to upgrade to the below? what do you guys think? https://drivenracingoil.com/i-30497797-gp-1-20w-50-synthetic-blend-high-performance-oil.html
  16. There is a vacuum **** and a water **** in the diagram they both have to function to allow water through the core I think? The water **** is a mechanical one and I believe does move with that thin wire I have been playing with. The vacuum clock is located at the same place? Dumb q but I will look at the manual more closely.
  17. Getting back on this topic, with car at normal operating temp and vent on Heat and full hot my fan DO NOT blow hot air 🙂 Does that mean air it not getting to the heater core? door not working? or water **** jam? my level is freely moving from COLD to HOT and i do see movement at the watercock (external connector etc.) Where to start? also do u think the two in cabin hoses can be serviced without taking the blower motor out?
  18. So far 3 years I have not received anything asking me for a smog test here. Not sure why but on the registration card my car being 1977 280z is documented as 76 manufactured. I just saw this part on ebay and thought to get it. Car doesnt seems to have any problem running. Worst case it is passing some gases out which could have been recirculated! thats how i understood the operation of this valve.
  19. I meant it blows same amount of air both directions. It is supposed to be one-way and i did the water test as well.
  20. My original do not hold pressure one way so I think it is bad. Seems like this is same part as the one u are referencing.
  21. Here u go, CA models only. Most cars I have seen here has bypassed this. Goes between thermal vacuum valve and BPT valve.
  22. Not replacing anything yet but just inquiring if anyone has used this. There is a similar valve on the 280z correct?
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