MH77280Z

Guys, I am debating between 20W-40 and 20W-50. The weather in CA does get in the 90s in Summer but in colder winter it does come down in the 40-50 range. Right now I am at 20W-40. Let me know what you guys use. Also any good brand in the 20W-40 range with good dose of ZDDP?

Thanks! Paid a bit more close attention this time. It was beeping as intended without the seat belt. With the seat belt it did cranks nicely. Relay turned up fine i think. I started cold so it did gave me some problems at the start. I am changing the temp/thermo time/cold start valve connectors as they are all loose and broken next. Test out the cold start injector on the machine and finally its time to change the thermal coupler on the fan.

Thanks for the tip. Seems like something not to be rushed especially if the engine is running ok. Let me air blow it first and use dry brush to clean areas along with damp cloth like others are suggesting. I am applying new silicon to places like AFM circuit cover etc. Just curious i have hosed and pressure washed my other more latest 2000+ model cars with no issues. Are we just more cautious with the 280z due to its age or something else?

Thanks!

Guys, i bought a 77 Auto over a year ago and car was sitting for 3-5 years. It does need a wash!!! I stumbled upon somewhere in the manual that says do not steam clean the engine. Is anyone aware of this? I am not able to find that again. Right now I am just planning to use some good of the shelf solvent and wash normally. Is there something I need to be careful about and prevent water to it? Appreciate some input.

Where is this relay located?

Hmmm - yes sir we have not hooked the seat belt!!! but I can try that tomorrow and report back.

Hi Guys, I posted a year ago that I bough a Auto 280z and finally I had it running. Had to do quite a lot of work and it still need more tuning but I was able to get it running on road. The problem is starter voltage !!! I have the new Nissan OEM fusible links installed as well. When you turn the ignition sometimes the starter does not get engaged and if it does it does not get full voltage. We have to use a remote starter button and directly supply voltage to the starter and it then cranks up nicely. The battery is brand new. Can someone guide me what to check between ignition and starter? I would assume there is somewhere a relay also involved.

Thanks all - really helpful. Expect more questions as I am trying to get my 77 Auto tuned. Appreciate all the patience as well 🙂 Right now waiting for new ELBOW and fusible links to arrive from Courtsy Nissan.

The rubber elbow between AFM and Throttle body in my car has a port as well. Your pic above does not show that which is what I am trying to figure out. Chk the T connection on the pic I downloaded below with labels in yellow. This has the T blocked at one end. Now the rocker/valve cover ports in this pic connects to the rubber elbow port. And the T connection on the air regulator inlet is taking input from throttle body etc. And while the 77 Manual pic I have connects the valve cover port directly into the port at the regulator which is blocked on my car and also shown blocked on the eficonnection JPEG. Just makes me confuse because the valve cover hose is venting vapors back into the throttle body via the opening in the elbow. So I believe the flow is from rocker to elbow and the T can connect directly to the opening on the throttle body I believe. So I think first EFI jpeg seems correct?

Hi, I want to confirm the connections to the air regulator etc. The intake side of the regulator has a T. One side obviously goes to the air regulator. On my car one side of the T is blocked with a HOSE/Clamp. My question is, the 3rd side of the T connects to the opening on the rubber elbow between AFM and throttle chamber? Also, where does the connector on the rocker/valve cover connects into? does that go on to the throttle chamber port?

Found some additional info here for fusible links below. Let me get the correct ones and try again if that changes anything. But I am sure those links were custom made wires etc.

Yes mine is automatic. Looking at your diagram, seems like the two fusible links are in the electrical path. We probably changed one or both of these links and made it with a wire in the shop etc. Should i get something from ebay which is close to OEM? what is the guidance on these two links if they need to be replaced?

We did install a new oil pressure sender. Let me check the cam lobes today when we start the car. I think last time when installing a new cam we did a remote start with the valve cover off and did see the oil coming out of the cam holes. Mine doesn’t have a spray bar etc. but will verify again.

Friends, I need some insight what to look for here. Engine oil in the car is Valvoline 20w-50. The oil pressure when the car starts is decent but then as the car warms up the oil pressure goes down. I know it is a bit open question but what should i look for? is there a good starting point? is there a way to test the oil pump? or oil pressure at a specific spot etc.? Appreciate some help ...

Friends ... my 77 208z which I am trying to tune does not crank-up PROPERLY when ignition key is turned. It is sending very little current over to the starter. We have checked using a voltmeter and voltage drops. The starter is fully rebuilt including a new solenoid. When u put a remote ignition switch between the battery and the starter and turn the ignition key the starter works perfectly and cranks up the engine fine. Any suggestions what to look for between the ignition and the starter etc.?

Hi Guys, I desperately need some help. The car is 77 280z Auto. The car cranks up and starts as well. It was sitting for 7-8 years. Néw oil in engine / trans. Now after it cranks up there is no throttle response. You can floor the paddle and it does not rev up. where to start with? Should I clean the fuel system since the car has been sitting? We put new fuel filter, injectors are new standard from rock auto. I am not sure about AFM or any other air intake stuff. please guide where to begin with on this throttle response issue. regards.

Just a correction so I checked both the cams today and the old and the new one installed both have A2 stamped on it so they are same. Both doesnt have holes. Will report the timing with distributor advance tomorrow.

So guys i just checked the old cam shaft has A1 on it and the one we have put in has A3 on it. Both have no holes on the cams (those are for oil etc. i think in some cams). So seems like we have the right cam based on the table it should be A correct?

OK so based on this: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nissan_L_engine#L28 Mine came out of a N47 and is fuel injected so it should be L28e. With a cam mark A. I will confirm today and which mark is on the turbo shaft.

Also what is externally oiled came vs internally oiled? are they different in timing? how can i tell which one my car came with? we have the original one off course.

Guys thanks for all the responses. A seriously dumb question since I am new to this car. Mine was a N47 head so it is either a L28 or L28e cam based on the table. How do you find out if it is L28 or L28e cam? As L28 was used just once and L28e/L28et was used in many heads. Appreciate.

Hi guys, so when we got a new N47 head we also got a new Cam. Mine is a 77 280z non turbo. But the guy told me the cam we found was for turbo but there is no difference in the cam. Will turbo cam be ok in a non turbo car? Visually it seems exactly the same?

The number #1 position is set how? Is this the position with distributor fully advance? I think not just asking.

Is this the firing order for 77 280z? Just confirming with your car!!!